auto_cran

How difficult is it to replace the serpentine belt on an L98?

I just picked up an '88 Coupe with 68K miles. I noticed that the edges of the serpentine drive belt are showing cracks which is why I am wanting to replace it.

I'm pretty much a novice at all this. Should I try to tackle it myself or take it to a mechanic and have them do it? (they said it would be about $40)

Any special tools required? I have the service manual (for an '89), and it doesn't say much regarding it. I figure I'll buy the belt at my local Chevy parts dealer.

Thanks in advance!

Wave on!
Chris

CFI-EFI

My FSM has about a half page and two illustrations on "Drive Belts", in section, 6B Engine cooling, including instructions and belt routing. Release the tension from the tensioner, and slip it off. To install, reverse the procedure. You will soon hate all V belts. The belt routing is also on a sticker on (was on?) your radiator shrouding.

That may be about the most expensive place to by a belt other than Gucci's.

RACE ON!!!

Steel Breeze

c4cruiser

You can get a good Gates belt at local parts stores or a NAPA store.

If you have an autoZone store in your area (and you didn't fill out your location in your area to tell if you do) you can rent a serpentine belt tool from them. Actually it's a free rental; just pay the deposit and take it back to get all your money back when you're done. You don't even need to buy the belt from them.

Look for the decal with the belt routing diagram. It shows the location of the tensioner that you need to release with the tool to remove the belt. Some tensioners have a recess, others have a stud. Use the tool to move the tensioner against its spring and the belt will slip over the idler pulley.

auto_cran

Thanks for the replies, everyone.

c4cruiser - I'll try that (got to an AutoZone and rent the tool). I'm in the Dallas/Ft Worth area, and AutoZone is everywhere. Will also stop by NAPA and pickup the belt there.

(BTW- I filled in my profile)

thanks again!

Chris

todd_vette87

You can forget about the tool if you have a 1/2" rachet or braker-bar...They pop right into the square hole next to the tensioner pulley. You just push the pulley away from the belt untill it is loose enough to slide the belt over the alt. pulley. Make sure you route the new belt exactly the same letting it set next to the alt. pulley(not over it yet). Push on your ratchet far enough to get slack to slip belt over the alternator pulley and slowly let the spring in the tensioner do its job. If you have big enough arms you can just grab the tesioner and push it far enough over to get the slack(make sure it is cool first), no tools what so ever needed. I can usually get most of them this way.
And definately go to a local parts store for the belt, way cheeper.

Da Mail Man

.......agreed

BADDUCK

I have some 1/2 sqaure stock I can cut to length. What's the ideal length for the breaker bar?

kopbet89c4

For me, it is about 10". I don't use the full tool because its just more effort to put it together than just using a single bar.

BADDUCK

Thanks, I'm 6" 5" 240, I'll just lean on it!

auto_cran

OK - I took another look at the car last night to put what I have learned from you all to use:

- the belt routing sticker is still on the car, plus I have it(the diagram) in the FSM - so I don't think routing will be a problem.

- stopping by NAPA later today to buy the belt.

QUESTION (just want to confirm) - Do I have to mess with the bolt on the tensioner? Or do I leave it alone?

Thanks again - I'll post on how it all goes. Want to get this done today or tomorrow.

Chris

kopbet89c4

You don't even touch the bolt. All you'd do is push the pulley back with that 1/2 inch bar.

AKS Racing

Chris,
You can readily find the good belts at O'Reilly in your area. Do not get the belt from Autozone that has the very shallow grooves, as these tend to not last very long.

Take a 1/2" drive ratchet (or breaker bar) and place in the idler pulley hole (just look between the cylinder for the AC and the compressor for the AC. Adjust the ratchet where the handle is one notch from as far as the handle can be on the passenger side. Push the ratchet handle indboard and remove belt from under water pump pulley. Slowly release tension on ratchet (it will stay pressed against the wheelwell moulding on the passenger side). Remove complete belt, noting routing (i.e. around bottom of crank pulley, over ps pump pulley, around outside of alternator and smog pump, under wp pulley, around outside of AC, then over idler and back under crank; I am going from memory).

Reinstallation is the reverse. You may wish to spin all pullies to note if there are any issues with components (loose, excessively tight, or funny noises).

It is a very easy task, which is why there are not much instructions on how to do the belt swap.

Good luck,
Aaron

auto_cran

Ok, got the belt, rented the tool (turns out I have the 1/2" rachet needed). I see the notch where the ratched square goes into the tensioner. When I push down on the bar - I see the tensioner move up.

I feel the tensioner is spring loaded, but it only moves a few inches up before it stops. Not sure if I should put more leverage into it or not. I don't want to break it. When I move the tensioner as far as I can (which again, isn't much), I still don't have enough slack to slide the belt off.

Suggestions?

I see now how this is suppose to be easy - but leave it to me to make it hard! lol

thanks,

Chris

Pete K

On my 87 the belt tensioner is pushed down to slack the belt.

auto_cran

Success! Thanks everyone! Having a 2nd person to help was a good idea. Took about 15 min to get the belt undone, and reroute the new one. I'm sure the 2nd time around its a piece of cake.

Thanks everyone for the help!

Chris

70ZZ3 96LT4

I am still testing my original belt on my 85, it now has 102k on the original belt. I have had a new one stored in the car for over 14 years that I bought from GM. The original belt has cracks in the ribs and funtions just fine. The belt is so easy to change, all I need is my breaker bar or a 1/2 in ratchet. I had it off the alternator pully the other day for repair to the alternator.

todd_vette87

IYou REALY don't want to continue this test till failure! Most of the time only part of the belt will separate and the dangling peice will whip all the way around the system cutting hoses, breaking plastic parts, or cracking through the hood. But it's you car to risk as you wish???
Take care.

AKS Racing

I am proof of this. Mine was not a long term test. The belt had only been there ~4 months. Another part (we will not go into this now; pressurized inlet pipe) came loose and began to "shave" some of the belt, then it catastrophically failed. It tore out the wiring to one of the underhood lamps. Did some minor damage to the underside of the hood, but ripped the connector off of the AC compressor, both cutting the wires and pulling the actual potting for the compressor connector out of the compressor.

I never found the piece between the torn wires and the "nubs" sticking out of the compressor. But.... I did find pieces of that belt for months after the failure. They were everywhere!!!!: crazy:

Bill total was over $400. Expensive failure.

Aaron

Slalom4me

I bought the tool - a Lisle 57900 Serpentine Belt Tool

Here is a post about using it on an '89. With a
Camber-Brace, it is even more of a benefit.

Also, I agree with the others about not running an old belt past
its time. Put a fresh one on and keep the old one around as an
emergency spare if you've grown fond of it

.