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I've read a few threads abut changing the fuel filter so it became my 7-4 project.
- Started engine and pulled Fuel pump fuse
- Turned engine over for 3 more seconds to pull remaining gas from line
- Jacked up front of car
- Removed bracket (wasn't frozen)
- Storm moving in so gotta move
- Spray with WD 40 and wait
- Check male head of fuel line which screws into female head of the back of the fuel filter and it looks stripped
- Check new AC Delco (652) filter and it looks like the rear female head accepts a male head that screws in clockwise
- Wrestle a open end wrench on it but it slips off because it is too stripped
- Storm getting closer
- More WD 40
- Get an adjustable on it - won't budge
- More WD 40
- Try again - won't budge
- Running out of time
- One more attempt - just can't get enough tourque
- Storms here
- Too late - wrap it up undone and back in the garage
Any suggestions on how to finish the job from those that have been there before?
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
I just went out and looked at my 1989. It looks like the large nut is part of the filter and needs to be held stationary by a back up wrench while you back off the fuel line nut. I don't know which nut you are trying to turn. The fuel line nut if stripped will probably require small narrow vise grips to start.
I just went out and looked at my 1989. It looks like the large nut is part of the filter and needs to be held stationary by a back up wrench while you back off the fuel line nut. I don't know which nut you are trying to turn. The fuel line nut if stripped will probably require small narrow vise grips to start.
I was trying to decipher what he meant as well, but it sounds like the fuel line nut must be stripped. In which case I agree with the above. get a Vise Grips on the stripped nut and use the adjustable on the fuel filter nut and squeeze them together (the first time I did this I smashed my fingers - so be careful). The first time also took me many hours of fiddling with. The second time I had the car in the air and on the ground in under 30 min. Mine is a 95 though... and I'm not sure what the differences are.
Thanks guys. Big storm moved through but my day is done working on the car. By the way - mine is an 86. I wasn't trying to turn the nut attached to the filter - I know that doesn't turn. That nut on the old filter is in fine shape. It is the male nut on the fuel line that is stripped. Getting a vice grip on it sounds like my next option. Would someone please double confirm that once I get that vice grip on there AND an adjustable on the filter nut - I have to turn the fuel line nut counterclockwise! I once snapped every lug nut off the wheel of an old Chrysler before someone told me that the right side lug nuts screw in counterclockwise on that particular car (young and stupid).
Threads are standard. Also for vice grips try to get a curved jaw pair for this job and hopefully it won't completely distort the line fitting. Nut on fuel filter is 25/32 or 20mm.
I'l bet someone tried an inch wrench on it. It may be easier to break the nuts with the bracket on, then take the bracket off.
That was probably my problem - it was so stripped I wasn't sure what size originally fit. I could get a 5/8ths on it - but it just slipped off. Has anyone ever replaced that fuel line nut before? Can you just replace the nut or does the nut come with a section of fuel line? I'm thinking of what I'm going to do the next time this thing needs to be replaced. I'm afraid that if I use a vice grip on it I may damage the nut further. At some point it will need to be replaced.
That was probably my problem - it was so stripped I wasn't sure what size originally fit. I could get a 5/8ths on it - but it just slipped off. Has anyone ever replaced that fuel line nut before? Can you just replace the nut or does the nut come with a section of fuel line? I'm thinking of what I'm going to do the next time this thing needs to be replaced. I'm afraid that if I use a vice grip on it I may damage the nut further. At some point it will need to be replaced.
The nut is part of the fuel line, but I suppose it wouldn't be too much of a fix if you have a flare tool.
I'd replace the line before I'd try to a flare tool...I've tried before and it's not as easy as it looks with steel line, sometimes you'll get tiny crack in the flare....and they'll leak. Maybe it's just me, but the fuel line is ultra important.
I'd replace the line before I'd try to a flare tool...I've tried before and it's not as easy as it looks with steel line, sometimes you'll get tiny crack in the flare....and they'll leak. Maybe it's just me, but the fuel line is ultra important.
I was thinking the same thing. I really don't want to messs around with a poor fitting fuel line. My gas mileage is bad enough already. I guess I'll check with GM on replacement. Anyone know if there is an acceptable aftermarket replacement?
If you've stripped the nut on the fuel line, then the fuel line itself must be replaced. The ends are not standard flared ends, but use a stud and captured O-ring arrangement to seal. This is not a serviceable piece. You can use the old standy ViseGrips, but sooner or later the line WILL need to be replaced.
FYI, you should NEVER try to use a regular open end wrench on a fuel line as the potential for stripping the nut is great, especially given the quality of tools used by the average DIYer. The proper tool in this case is a 16mm flarenut (or line wrench) wrench. 5/8 can be forced on, but the nut is actually 16mm in diameter. The nut on the fuel filter is 20mm, but you can use a adjustable wrench in it's place (if you get it in there). I understand not everybody can afford to buy a rollcab full of Snap-On, but when you're buying specialized items like this, a good alternative is the Craftsman "Professional" series.
Good luck to the OP... you've got your work cut out for you.
Since the fuel line nut on that side is already stripped, you might be better off loosening the fuel filter bracket and the other sides fuel line (so the filter is free to rotate), then grabbing the stripped nut with the vice grips (just to hold it, Remember, most vice grip teeth are designed to go on one way only, looking at the angle of the teeth will make this pretty obvious. The moving part of the handle should lead the direction of rotation. Hope this is clear, I'm having a hard time putting it into words). Then use the proper 20mm wrench to turn the fixed (and undamaged) nut on the fuel filter, thereby spinning the fuel filter off the damaged line. As far as fixing the line, a short splice with a union at one end and the proper fitting at the other may be your best bet (depending on how hard the entire line is to replace), but you will have to do your own flaring to do this. Most auto parts stores sell lenght's of tubing with end's already on them just for this purpose. The downside is their probably just standard flared ends, You'll have to check. You can also call Fine Lines, a SS brake and fuel line specialist, and see if they can make one (they only list 53-82 Corvette's in their catalog, but they claim that if you don't see your car listed, they can still help(usually). They have an extensive library of original lines from cars that they don't offer as regular production items that can be made to order custom for you. A couple of other possibles are Inline Tubing ( http://www.inlinetube.com ) and The Right Stuff Detailing ( http://www.rightstuffdetailing.com ) I'd also call the dealer just in case someone has one lying on a shelf somewhere. You never know with Dealer parts, Sometimes they're unbelivably expensive, and somtimes they're so cheap it isn't funny!
Last edited by Blownfuel1; Jul 6, 2006 at 05:14 PM.
I understand exactly what you are saying - I was thinking the same thing. Undo the forward end of the fuel line. Then secure the back end fuel line with the Vice Grips and use the fuel Filter nut to rotate the filter out. That would minimize the damage to the stripped fuel line nut. The old filter looks pretty clean but I am guessing it has been on for a LLOONNGG time. It really doesn't want to come off. A friend of mine has a lift and I'm going to take it in and hopefully apply enough torque to get it off.
I picked this 86 up two years ago and it had been sitting for years before then and needed lots of work. Project after project - probably 5 or 6 grand of just basics on it with projects-a-plenty to go.
You might want to try some PB Blaster instead of WD40... Blaster works where others fail.
Good luck, hope you get it off without too much drama.
Never heard of it before. I just called up Advance Auto Parts and they said they carry it. When I asked if it is better than WD-40 I got a duh - no kidding response. Guess I'm the only guy that wasn't aware. Off I go. I get the lift later this week and I'll respond to let every know whether I got it off or ignited the whole garage on fire. Thanks everyone for your help.