Rear end goes every direction under Accel/deccel !!!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,472
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From: Toronto ONTARIO
Rear end goes every direction under Accel/deccel !!!
Sorry the other post didnt post up and i lost my page long essay somehow 
Oh well to make it short. I think the alignment is way off and may be the reason for this. Under accel i have to correct the steering because its all over the road. No it isn't the power
Im talking 15-20% throttle only (not tuned good yet). It isn't tires/wheels because it did this with my winter rims and with my new rims/tires same thing. I had it alignmed 2 weeks ago but they did a terrible job. Im going again tommorow morning for a proper alignment at a reputable shoppe so I'll know how off the settings were.
My question to you guys is what should I look for to be loose under the car in the back?
Car has all new rear dana 44 with 3.73s ( possible install issue?)
All new bushings throughout. VBP Camber and Toe rod kit. has beam plates too.
Any suggestions?
Oh well to make it short. I think the alignment is way off and may be the reason for this. Under accel i have to correct the steering because its all over the road. No it isn't the power
Im talking 15-20% throttle only (not tuned good yet). It isn't tires/wheels because it did this with my winter rims and with my new rims/tires same thing. I had it alignmed 2 weeks ago but they did a terrible job. Im going again tommorow morning for a proper alignment at a reputable shoppe so I'll know how off the settings were. My question to you guys is what should I look for to be loose under the car in the back?
Car has all new rear dana 44 with 3.73s ( possible install issue?)
All new bushings throughout. VBP Camber and Toe rod kit. has beam plates too.
Any suggestions?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
you did bushings? Have you driven it since?
I read here in another thread that you have to preload the poly's, or they will bind... I am wondering if you are encountering this problem, or one like it.
I read here in another thread that you have to preload the poly's, or they will bind... I am wondering if you are encountering this problem, or one like it.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: Lakewood CO
Originally Posted by RichS
I had simular issues with bad half shaft u-joints. The car was all over the place giving it just a little gas.
Dave
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,472
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From: Toronto ONTARIO
Wheel bearings are brand new GM units. about 30 minutes driving on them. No play whatsoever. u-joints are new as well as the halfshafts incl driveshafts as well. all bushings in the rear are new too.
I went to a very knowledgeable alignment shoppe this morning and after he set it up.. it was still there. We checked all the suspension mounting locations and noticed rubbing marks near the Diff carrier bolts on each side. Looks like the entire assembly is moving side to side. This is happening even over grooved or uneven pavement. He said the sleeves for the bolts or the wrong size bolts may have been used to tighten up the diff.
Going to try and get it checked out asap. I'll post the results ! there goes my weekend
I went to a very knowledgeable alignment shoppe this morning and after he set it up.. it was still there. We checked all the suspension mounting locations and noticed rubbing marks near the Diff carrier bolts on each side. Looks like the entire assembly is moving side to side. This is happening even over grooved or uneven pavement. He said the sleeves for the bolts or the wrong size bolts may have been used to tighten up the diff.
Going to try and get it checked out asap. I'll post the results ! there goes my weekend
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 286
Likes: 0
From: Alpine California
I had a very similar problem in my C-3, but it wasn't too hard to Diagnose, I had just been involved in an accident, and the front cross member was halfway torn out of the frame! Couldn't see it from above, but after putting it on a lift, it was really obvious! Apparently C-3's are pretty notorious for cracked front crossmembers, but don't know of it being a problem on C-4's. Probably not what's wrong with your car, but it is one more thing to check and eliminate.
Last edited by Blownfuel1; Aug 22, 2006 at 02:41 PM.
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
Originally Posted by Blownfuel1
I had a very similar problem in my C-3, but it wasn't too hard to Diagnose, I had just been involved in an accident, and the front cross member was halfway torn out of the frame! Couldn't see it from above, but after putting it on a lift, it was really obvious! Apparently C-3's are pretty notorious for craked front crossmembers, but don't know of it being a problem on C-4's. Probably not what's wrong with your car, but it is one more thing to check and eliminate.
the steel they used to make the frame rails on these cars is some of the hardest **** I have ever tried to drill a screw into... damn...
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 2
From: Little Rock Arkansas
I skimmed through most of the posts and didn't see this mentioned but it is a major cause of the rearend stepping out: the torque arm... Make sure the c-beam is torqued properly because if it's not it WILL make the car squirrely...
-Jeb
-Jeb
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,472
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From: Toronto ONTARIO
Thanks for the replies so far guys. I spoke to the shoppe who did the diff/rear end install and they said the bushings were press fit into the carrier and they had sleeves in them. They basically ruled out that as a possibility. I think by looking at the bolts if the carrier was moving on them you would see the marks by the nut or bolt.
I left a message for Bill at ZFdoc who did my tranny and asked him the possibility of the c beam being loose causing this. I do have new beam plates on it but My guess is that they are loose. I hope this isn't causing excessive loads on the trans. I also noticed that the tranny although brand new and rebuilt , whines alot when coasting to a stop, even in neutral. Sounds to me like some part of the driveline is not straight and may be cuasing this, relating the 2 areas of concern.
I'm going to take a look underneath and see what i can feel and tighten. that's all i can do until i get a shoppe to give me time to bring it in to take it apart.
I left a message for Bill at ZFdoc who did my tranny and asked him the possibility of the c beam being loose causing this. I do have new beam plates on it but My guess is that they are loose. I hope this isn't causing excessive loads on the trans. I also noticed that the tranny although brand new and rebuilt , whines alot when coasting to a stop, even in neutral. Sounds to me like some part of the driveline is not straight and may be cuasing this, relating the 2 areas of concern.
I'm going to take a look underneath and see what i can feel and tighten. that's all i can do until i get a shoppe to give me time to bring it in to take it apart.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,472
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From: Toronto ONTARIO
Originally Posted by jburnett
I skimmed through most of the posts and didn't see this mentioned but it is a major cause of the rearend stepping out: the torque arm... Make sure the c-beam is torqued properly because if it's not it WILL make the car squirrely...
-Jeb
-Jeb
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,525
Likes: 2
From: Houston TX
Originally Posted by jburnett
I skimmed through most of the posts and didn't see this mentioned but it is a major cause of the rearend stepping out: the torque arm... Make sure the c-beam is torqued properly because if it's not it WILL make the car squirrely...
-Jeb
-Jeb
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,472
Likes: 0
From: Toronto ONTARIO
Originally Posted by AKS Racing
A tale tell sign of this is that the shifter moves up and down when accellerating/decellearting. I know this because....
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,525
Likes: 2
From: Houston TX
Typically, the cat-back portion of the exhaust will need to be dropped. Tightening the c-beam bolts (2 in front/trans, 2 on the back/diff) is relatively straightforward (especially if you have beam plates).
Aaron
Aaron
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,946
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From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Did you torque the rearend suspension pieces with the Vette up in the air, and not in a pre loaded state. Supposedly that (up and not loaded)will cause the cars suspension pieces not to be torqued correclty, and can cause the suspension be a little out of whack.