C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

L98 pulleys replacement tech tip wanted

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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 11:59 AM
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Default L98 pulleys replacement tech tip wanted

Does anyone have instructions, tech tips or a link to either for replacing the underdrive pulleys on an L98?
Thanks in advance.
Jeff
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 12:05 PM
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Jeff,
Step 1 is to loosen the 3 small and 1 large bolt on the crank pulley. Also, if it is a 3 pc pulley kit, loosen the 4 water pump pulley bolts.
Then you can remove the belt, spin off the bolts and swap those 2 pulleys. The alternator will need to be removed and zip the large nut with a 15/16 socket using an impact gun. The march set usually requires removing the factory spacer, just below the oem pulley.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
Jeff,
Step 1 is to loosen the 3 small and 1 large bolt on the crank pulley. Also, if it is a 3 pc pulley kit, loosen the 4 water pump pulley bolts.
Then you can remove the belt, spin off the bolts and swap those 2 pulleys. The alternator will need to be removed and zip the large nut with a 15/16 socket using an impact gun. The march set usually requires removing the factory spacer, just below the oem pulley.
Hi Pete, Thanks for the info.
It is a 3 pulley March's set but because it's going on an 87, I think I'm only going to use the Crank and alternator pulleys. From the research I did the set for 88 and newer have the same two pulleys as the 87 and older set. Then they get a third pulley Which I don't need to use.
Do I need the impact gun for the bolts on the crank pulley?
I understand leaving the belt on until the bolts are loose is a good idea.
Do you reccommend loostening the three small bolts first, then the larger one or does it matter?
Thanks again.
Jeff
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 12:51 PM
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Regular hand tools will remove the crank pulley without issue. The compression of the motor and the belt tension is usually enough to remove those 4 bolts. The order of removal is not a problem. If the motor starts to roll, you may have to whack the rachet with your palm a couple of times to "pop" it loose. If the impact gun is handy(for the alternator) 1 hr job start to finish.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 01:05 PM
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Thanks again Pete.
I think Rick (88blackz51) is coming by on Monday so we will do both cars at the same time.
Tranny is still running like it should. Time to get my 2500 stall installed.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 01:26 PM
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Now you're talkin. Those 2 mods will really be noticable. Especially if done together.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 01:35 PM
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How long should it take a tranny shop to install the converter?
I think it's a bit too much for me to bite off.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 01:39 PM
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I would figure 4 hours. They may be able to do it in less time, but they will likely charge the 4 hrs.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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Just labour and fluid right?
Is there anything else they will charge me for?

I have a trans oil cooler that I went to install but couldn't figure out where to put. I will tackle that part myself.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 01:55 PM
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Hey Pete, I forgot to mention that I have a set of LT headers on the way as well.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 08:51 AM
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It took my tranny shop about 3 Hrs to put the 2200 stall I bought from Pete and w/ a full fluid change and new filter it was $340.00 not bad! My time and strength(recent surgery on back!) were worth more so I had them do it! It was definetely worth it! Let us know how it goes when it is all done!

Thanks,Matt
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 87 rag
Just labour and fluid right?
Is there anything else they will charge me for?
Jeff,
insist that they install a new front pump seal. Also insist that they replace the front pump seal retainer.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
Jeff,
insist that they install a new front pump seal. Also insist that they replace the front pump seal retainer.
Thanks Pete, I would have had no idea to ask for that.
How much are these parts$$? I know they will likely be more expensive in Canada, I just want an idea.
Jeff
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 10:03 AM
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Jobber on a front pump seal is about $5. The seal retainer should already be on your trans. I pay $2 each from a trans parts wholesaler for the retainer. Just tell him to NOT toss it after he removes it. Some old timers do. It is there for a reason, seals popped out on the 82-84 years
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 09:48 AM
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Okay Pete, this one hour job just passed one hour and I don't have a single bolt off.
I thought I would start with the center crank bolt and I'm beat.
The belt turns when I get to it. No idea how to give the wrench a whack. I can barely get my arm in there to hold it. I need someone with skinny arms or plastic man. My arms just dont bend anwhere but at the elbow.
Thanks.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 11:32 AM
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Alternator bolt comes off easy, the crank pulley bolts still haven't budged.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 11:49 AM
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Not being a smart *** but are you going in the correct direction that would be "counter clock wise" to loosen thee bolts on all your accessory pulley's?(I know you removed the alt bolt) Just have to check because it shouldn't be this hard to remove!

Thanks,Matt
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 12:28 PM
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Jeff I just got home from work. I will call you when I get up. Prob around 4:30, See what shape I am in at that time.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 01:16 PM
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I got all the bolts off finally. The only one that gave me trouble was the center crank bolt.
I just kept banging away at it and it finally decided to come off.
Here is another question.
How do you tighten the new alternator pulley?
Or even better, if you put the fan thing on and it might be on backwards because it rubs on your new belt, how do you get it off? The 15/16 socket does not fit inside the pulley and I think it tightened by starting the car.
I'm such a bull in a china shop.
Thanks.

Last edited by 87 rag; Jul 10, 2006 at 01:18 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 01:21 PM
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Yes I was going the right way. I figure it was just 19 years of not coming apart.
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