Replacing u-joints
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 904
Likes: 0
From: Langley, BC, Canada
Replacing u-joints
so im finaly gonna bite the bullet and do my ujoints..i picked them up today and a small peice of pipe..my plan is to use my vise, a socket and the pipe to push them out of the shafts. like it shows in the haynes manual.Sound ok? Any advice would be good
Pro
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
From: Etowah, Tennessee
Re: Replacing u-joints (nsimmons)
If you take your time, and work carefully, there is no problem. I changed all four of mine out (I assume you are talkiing about the drive axles) this spring. I dreaded it for a looong time, but after I got started, it wasn;t too bad. Close and tight places to work, but if you follow the Haynes manual, you will do fine. It took me about 4 hours on the first side, and about two on the second side..*S* You learn from the first one...Good Luck!!! :chevy
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 958
Likes: 1
From: SF Bay area, CA USA
Re: Replacing u-joints (nsimmons)
Put the new u joints in the freezer before you start your work. Use a propane torch to heat up the loops on the end of the drive shafts. The heat will make it easier to get the u joints out and the cold new joints will shrink a little making them easier to get in.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 904
Likes: 0
From: Langley, BC, Canada
Re: Replacing u-joints (weekendwrench)
i got one side done after about 4 hours..the pain was getting the half shaft out, no one told me i had to unbolt half the rear suspension..i guess i should of read the shop manual first 
. The book says to disconnect the leaf spring, the tie rod and the bar that adjusts camber(cant remember the name) i didnt feel like unbolting everything so i just un did the camber beam, and pulled down on it really hard and the shaft dropped out..the ujoints slide right out and the new ones slide right in, no problems. Then i fought with it for 2 hours trying to get the shaft back it..i finally realized if you start pumpkin side first and slide it up over the diff, you'll get clearence to get the shaft in. I just have to torque down the shaft bolts and reconnect the camber beam, which looks like it'll be fun, i have to pull it back a good 3 inches and push it up 2..i think i'll get some re-enforcements..
. The book says to disconnect the leaf spring, the tie rod and the bar that adjusts camber(cant remember the name) i didnt feel like unbolting everything so i just un did the camber beam, and pulled down on it really hard and the shaft dropped out..the ujoints slide right out and the new ones slide right in, no problems. Then i fought with it for 2 hours trying to get the shaft back it..i finally realized if you start pumpkin side first and slide it up over the diff, you'll get clearence to get the shaft in. I just have to torque down the shaft bolts and reconnect the camber beam, which looks like it'll be fun, i have to pull it back a good 3 inches and push it up 2..i think i'll get some re-enforcements..
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 1
From: Enter Post Count Here
Re: Replacing u-joints (nsimmons)
Wow, I changed one on my drive-shaft(the other was fine, I'm just an idiot and lost bearings thats why I had to change the one) and it was a major pita.
And thats with a 50 ton press(only used about .32 of those tons) and all of the right equipment.
Good luck with the other side and drive-shaft. To save a mess...I think when you pull the drive-shaft the transmission will drain.
And thats with a 50 ton press(only used about .32 of those tons) and all of the right equipment.
Good luck with the other side and drive-shaft. To save a mess...I think when you pull the drive-shaft the transmission will drain.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,099
Likes: 0
From: PITTSBURGH PA
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
Re: Replacing u-joints (NoWorries)
yea those half shafts are a pain i would change both if you are allready unde their even if the other is ok it cant be to far behind :cool:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,525
Likes: 1
From: Sarasota, FL
Re: Replacing u-joints (CORKVETTE1)
I was driving down the freeway the other day when the right rear started making an odd, rhythmic swishing noise. I got off on an exit and nothing. As I accelerated away from the light it make the swishing noise again, but only for about 3 seconds then stopped. Well about a mile later as I pulled away from another light I REALLY heard it. Now the noise doesn't stop and it is more of a metallic grinding/squealing. I turn off the car and get it towed home and jack it up. It was one of the u-joints on the passenger side. I had a new one in and was driving in 2 hours following the directions in the Haynes. No heat, no freezer. When I pulled the cap from the bad pinion all that came out was black dust and little tiny bent and shiny pieces of needle bearing. Yikes! I replaced the other side a few days later just to be safe.
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Team Owner
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 32,782
Likes: 11
From: Former NCM Drag Racing coordinator, National director Corvette Challenge Spring Hill, Tennessee: Whiting, New Jersey
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Re: Replacing u-joints (nsimmons)
With the shafts out I think it easer to take the to a shop and have then install. The little bit they charge is well worth it.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 27,818
Likes: 8
From: CT
Re: Replacing u-joints (mackeyred96)
Cork:
85 CORVETTE
BEST ET:11:57 AT 117.37UNCORKED
11:70 AT 116.24 THROUGH THE PIPES
340RWHP-420RWTQ
BOTH TIMES ON M&H STREET TIRES
What size motor? This is haulin' the freight!
85 CORVETTE
BEST ET:11:57 AT 117.37UNCORKED
11:70 AT 116.24 THROUGH THE PIPES
340RWHP-420RWTQ
BOTH TIMES ON M&H STREET TIRES
What size motor? This is haulin' the freight!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,099
Likes: 0
From: PITTSBURGH PA
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
Re: Replacing u-joints (JD 90 383)
it is a 406 right now kicking around the idea for a larger one for next year thou here is a link to the car and all the modifications the same modifications and a 350 went mid 12s all day long http://hometown.aol.com/aheis46312/myhomepage/auto.html
hopeing for 10s next year :cool:
hopeing for 10s next year :cool:
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 904
Likes: 0
From: Langley, BC, Canada
Re: Replacing u-joints (CORKVETTE1)
Well for those following..i just finished both the half shafts..it still clunks a bit when i change gear, but i know this is the rear joint on the driveshaft. at low speeds there is zero noise..no clunking ticking, anything, a big improvment. I havent done the drive shaft joints since i dont have the ujoints for it..I'll do them next weekend
[Modified by nsimmons, 6:25 PM 9/2/2001]
[Modified by nsimmons, 6:25 PM 9/2/2001]
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 2,501
Likes: 177
From: Houston, Texas FEAR THE BONES
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Re: Replacing u-joints (mackeyred96)
With the shafts out I think it easer to take the to a shop and have then install. The little bit they charge is well worth it.
:eek: :crazy: ! So, like others, I'm doing my own u-joint repairs (this week, actually).
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,525
Likes: 1
From: Sarasota, FL
Re: Replacing u-joints (jcazin)
I have never had any trouble just using my 6' bench vise and sockets. I guess I an just lucky, but I have done probably 30 u-joints on my and others cars so far with no trouble.
Bob
Bob
