My opinion, buy the standard Bilstein shocks they will outlast and out handle the KYB's. I know the KYB's are cheaper. Replace just the front Bilsteins first if you want. The fronts usually take more of a beating.

Oh on the labor, the fronts are real easy, no more than $25.

 

DrRich -

The GM Factory Service Manual states that a light amount of oil leaking to the lower shock body is NORMAL, and is not a cause for replacement.

Be sure that your mechanic isn't seeing normal Bilstein leakage and concluding that the shocks are shot.

I initially missed the fact that your Vette only has 16k on it. Unless the car was driven on washboard roads (think of the warning strips approaching stop signs!), then the shocks may not be the problem.

Have you had the alignment checked (I don't recall if you mentioned that earlier)?

Good Luck,
Steven

 

I just bought some adjustable Konis from tirerack. My car has a bad front end bounce and the rear seems too stiff because of this. Can't wait to get them installed. Hope I get the results everyone on here has posted regardless of the mileage.

I run my car about 28psi cold in the back and 30 in the front. That's just what we've found good for my car with the tire temp testing at autox. I don't let it get higher than 32f/30r. Hope no one that races around where I live reads that cause I like winning.

 

Interesting Point Steve. . .I took my 94 to the chevy/corvette mechanic this morning for his opinion (he's the Corvette mechanic at the chevy dealer) and he felt that the shocks were fine. There was some "grease" on one of the shocks, but he felt that it wasn't from the shock leaking and advised against replacing them. (I have 16,000 miles on the car). He took a ride with me and did notice some skipping and suggested I check the alignment. Do you guys buy this analysis?
DrRich

 

I have a performance alignment, it helped the handling on smooth roads, but did nothing really for the other problem. I've read about members changing shocks with less mileage than you. If you wanna wait 2-3 wks, I'll let you know how it works for me.....if I live through the testing.

 

Alignment will do squat for a hard ride! If your car wanders on a smooth road or is wearing the front tires unevenly then consider it.

 

What he said. Also, the "vette mechanic" at the bill heard dealership where I live is anything but that. Of course, they stand by him and his "20 years" of experience working on these cars......but he still claimed I was hitting the rev limiter (at 4500rpm) when it actually had a bad coil wire. A "shade tree" mechanic found that for me and has since done several jobs for me. Never will I take my car back to the dealer. rant off

 

I would go with the shocks from TPiS if you're on a budget. Otherwise get Adjustable Koni or QA1, then you can adjust the firmness to your preference.

 

If the alignment is off, it could certainly have the effect you've reported (not the harsh ride - that sounds like it was due to tire pressure from what you've written).

When you have this problem, does it seem as if the front is breaking loose, or is it the rear? That is, does it feel like the front handled the poor road, and when the rear hits it, it jumps like a scared cat?

Before I dropped over a hundred bucks on a set of shocks, I'd put money toward an alignment at a reputable shop. Tell them what you're experiencing, and make it clear that you want to be able to talk directly with the Technician (that way you can discuss it without the Service Writer's filter on the story).

Good Luck,
Steven

 

Front is breaking loose; a hard skid over the succession of bumps.
DrRich

 

Check the front toe. I had my car with exagerated toe out and the car was really dart . Are you experiencing aso traimlining??
-Beppe-

 

DrRich -

Does the car track straight when the steering wheel is held in the center position?

What happens if you let go of the wheel on a relatively smooth and straight road? There should be very little wandering if the alignment is properly set.

Have you inspected your tires very carefully for signs of alignment issues?

With the car is parked on a level surface, look at the position of the rear wheels with respect to the fronts. If the rear wheels appear to tilt in (or out), then you probably have an issue with alignment.

Also with the car parked on a level surface, and with the steering wheel in the center position, do either one of the front wheels point in a different direction?

These are all simple tests to provide a rough idea of the aligment (or lack thereof). Not seeing anything doesn't mean that you DON'T have an alignment problem, but if you can see a difference with this level of inspection, then I'm pretty sure you have an alignment problem.

Good Luck,
Steven

 

Goodyear GSD3's @ 30 lbs !

 

Thanks for getting my PSI where it needed to be, from 45 (holy crap) to 30. This helped tremendously! The car drives so much better. Now I'm wondering whether I should change the shocks (original Bilstein with 16,000 miles (94 Vette). There is still a little roughness over those rough spots in the road, but isn't that what I would expect with the 94 suspension? Or do you recommend that it is worth the investment to install Koni Sport Adjustables?
DrRich

 

Not sure I'd blow the waddage in your case, I race my car fairly often so it makes sense for me. If you're not racing, I'm sure one of the other shocks posted for much cheaper would be a better route w/o taking much risk. The suspension on these things sucks anyway, no matter what, at least it does when comparing to say an 02 Z06.

 

I have about 58k, original Bilsteins and GSD3's on my 89 vert. R&D Camber brace helped the front end although the front never really skipped like you described, but the rear end does "hop" when driving over bumps at speed. On a curve it is really unsettling but I think that's the nature of the beast or maybe it's time for me to get shocks too.

 

This thread has been going in all sorts of directions.

To summarize:

Tire Pressure is now at 30PSI.

Shocks might be good, but it's damned near impossible to determine unless they are put on a shock dyno and tested.

The one thing no one has mentioned - TIRES! How old is "relatively new?" The GSD is not noted for being a smooth riding tire... and has been out of production for some time, right? So these could be 3 or 4 years old and as such, showing structural age.

The C4 suspension, with those damned transverse leaf springs, are well known to loose contact with the road in bumpy conditions. Mine has done it since the day I bought it, and finally, the Koni's have helped, but it STILL skitters across severe imperfections.

An alignment might help take some of the edge off of it, but it won't change the basic problem...

DrRich - you have several choices for shocks (prices do not include labour, labour is the same regardless, except for the coil over kit):

1) KYB - good value, but they are not a great shock. $150.00, complete

2) Revalved Bilstien - not a bad deal, and at the very least, don't throw away your existing shocks, cause they can be rebuilt and revalved. I think it's about $50~$75 per shock, I don't remember.
--- 2a) Buy the KYBs and have the Bilstiens rebuilt

3) QA1 - I have never used these, but others love them.
--- 3a) QA1 coil over kit. A bit pricy, but should solve all your problems. ($1000.00 complete)

4) Koni Yellows - These are what I have. And they are nice nice nice. great ride and excellent control. This is my 2nd set of Koni's (first set on the Vette), and would recommend them to anyone. ~$600 complete

 

The original poster has a very low mileage 94. Mine is a 93 with 24K miles. Not many miles either. My problem was a continuous floating sensation after hitting a bump on the highway. I would think our problems are related and due to the fact the cars were sitting most of their lives and not being driven. I replaced the shocks with Z51 spec Bilsteins, and the floating sensation has gone away.
I hope that helps.

 

At 16K I doubt your shocks are bad, I have 48K on Z51 Bilsteins and they are going. The old bounce each corner works if you know how to "read" how the car settles. This works if the shocks are truely bad. When you do get shocks I would keep the car original and buy standard duty Bilsteins.

 

The Goodyear GS D3 Eagle F1's are among the most current of the Goodyear "ultra high performance" tires. Are you thinking of the GS "C" Eagle perhaps?

Steven