Hi guys,

I recently had a no start situation with my car (92 LT1). I had to let it overnight cause I couldn't start it. I had no crank when turning the key but the "security" light came off every time I turned it (I tried with my two keys).

After trying for an hour I decided to give up and try the day after.
So the day after I tried and it started at the first shot.

I wonder if it is a starter problem or a VATS one.

Can you give me some clue to find this out.

Thank you

 

Did you hear any noise when turning the key? If not then I'm thinking VATS. Is this the first time this has happened? You can check the starter solenoid and connection at the starter as well as the battery.

 

Sorry I posted the same story twice because I thought it didn't work first...anyway...

When I turned the key I just heard a click, the "security" light went off and all the lights on the dashboard...but then no crank.

 

This is were I would start. If you heard a click this means that the starter wanted to turn over but a loose connection, faulty soleniod, or faulty starter stopped it. If it happens again in the near future, get under it with a hammer/wood block and medium force tap it. If it's froze, it should loosen up. Make sure the battery connection is good and tight....like your lady. The battery is the first place I would start.

 

I just went through VATS (and had an accumulating audience as my Vette was loaded on the flatbed). The symptom was lights strong (no dimming when the key is turned etc.) and absolutely no hint that it was going to try to start the car (NO click or anything). This does not sound like your problem -- so I agree with the above.. start with the battery then look to the starter and solenoid.

 

This is actually difficult to do as my vette has been lowered, but I'll give it a try if I have...

I checked the battery connection too and it was tight enough and the battery had been replaced not so long ago.

As you said 4REGT4, I have no dimming when turning the key so I'll focus on the starter and see if it's fried.

I've heard that C3s and C4s starters had the bad habbit to fail because they're exposed to heavy heat due to their locations, do you guys confirm that?

 

You said the security light extinguished as you went to the start position ? as I understand it that proves the code reader in the VATS is functioning & not a vats problem . Short between the terminals on the starter with a screw driver,see if it cranks & starts .
Warren

 

If it's an auto, I also would look at the nuetral safety switch, and if a 6 spd, the clutch switch. Then I'd check the ignition switch,( on the column under the dash).

 

If it is VATS, VATS won't allow a crank for 6 minutes after a failed trial, so always wait 6 minutes before trying again. When it won't crank is the time to do some testing and measuring to find the cause. Measure the battery terminal voltage while holding the ign sw in crank position. The voltage should not drop below 9.0 volts (during actual cranking) or the battery is discharged, battery cable connections are not good, or the battery is at the end of its life. Battery condition can be determined by measuring the battery terminal voltage under no load. 12.0 volts and below, discharged. 12.9 volts and above, fully charged and linear in between. First unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector switch if automatic) and jump the socket. Measure the voltage from the jumper to ground while the ign sw is in crank position. If 12v but no cranking, then you have a battery, battery cable connection, or starter problem. If no 12v, you have a VATS problem. You can check the starter by jumping 12v to the safety switch jumper, this should make the starter crank. For VATS, remove the hush panel above the drivers feet and find the two wires from above the steering column that go to a 2 pin connector and unplug. Insert your ign key and measure the resistance across the 2 wires from the steering column. It should measure the same resistance as the pellet in the key. If over 13k ohms, you need a new ign tumbler which will have new contacts that make with the pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS until you can schedule an ign tumbler replacement by clipping a resistor the same value as your pellet across the 2 pin socket on the wires from the wiring harness (these go to the VATS module). You can use a 1/4 watt 5% resistor from Radio Shack. Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.