What's up Guys?

I’m hoping someone might be able to give me a little help.

I have a 95 LT1 Auto. I lost / misplaced my keys which started my problems with VATS. I spoke with a GM Parts Manager (Nytro) on another Vette related site who told me a local dealership should be able to provide me with the key codes, door codes, and correct VATS code so I could get a new set of keys made. The dealerships in my immediate vicinity had no idea what he was talking about and in the end, Nytro finally provided me with the codes.

I managed to find a dealership further away from home that knew what Nytro was talking about. I went to their facility with registration, ID etc. in hand to get a new key cut. The dealership looked up my VIN # and was able to verify the key and door codes but was not able to verify the VATS code (11) I obtained from Nytro. I took a chance and asked them to cut the key using a blank that matched code 11. The new key does turn in the ignition but it will not start the car.

I’ve pulled the DTC codes and the code that comes up is “Invalid Key”. I’ve read the resistance of the key alone and I get the same value when I check the resistance through the wires coming from the key cylinder. I unplugged the wire coming from the key cylinder and connected a potentiometer to the wires leading to the CCM and tried all 15 possible values, waiting 10 minutes in between each attempt, but was unable to start the car.

Thinking I could have possibly done something wrong, I called a locksmith who used a VATS Interegator to inject each of the 15 codes and he was not able to get it to start either. During this process, what I finally noticed is that when the ignition key is turned to the on position, the Security light comes on and stays on instead of going off after a few seconds.

Unlocking the door with the door key causes the Security light to flash as normal. Using the door lock switch causes the Security light to come on normally until the door is closed and then it will go out. Opening the door with the system armed causes the alarm to activate and the horn blows. The key can then be used to turn it off. All normal functions.

Prior to misplacing my keys, I never had any issues or problems with the VATS system or starting (46K mi). The one difference between the past and now is that the FOB was on the key ring with the keys and I do not currently have one. When I did have the FOB, it armed and disarmed the system as expected. According to everything I’ve read, the absence of the FOB should not matter when it comes to determining the proper code.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing the Security light to remain on or what else I could check?

Thanks,

Cliff

 

Unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if automatic) and jump the socket. Measure the voltage from the jumper to ground while turning the ign sw to crank. If you have 12v and no cranking, then you have a battery cable connection, battery, or starter problem. You can jump 12v to the jumper and the starter should crank proving the starter is ok. If no 12v then VATS is your problem and you need to follow 12v from the ign sw crank contacts to the start enable relay to the clutch safety sw and down to the starter solenoid contact on the starter. 12v should be at all places in crank position or you have the wrong pellet resistance (you've tried all of them), the start enable relay is defective, ign sw is defective, clutch safety sw is defective, VATS module is defective, or the wiring in between these devices is open circuit.

 

Try disconnecting the vats cable under the dash (orange shield,two wires) Plug into that connector and run the interogator again, bypassing the ignition switch vats connector. You have to wait 4-5 minutes for the vats to reset after each try. When you get a valid signal the security light will go out after a second or two. If it flashes security the vats isn't getting the correct signal.