[1985] Questions About Replacing Distributer Components
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Le Mans Master
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From: Philadelphia Burbs
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St. Jude Donor '06
[1985] Questions About Replacing Distributer Components
I'm thinking of replacing my distributer cap, distributer rotor, and ignition module on my early 1985.
How tough is this? Do you have any special advice? Should I change any other components while I'm at it? I have a Helms, but I'm looking for the voices of experience in C4 Tech...
How tough is this? Do you have any special advice? Should I change any other components while I'm at it? I have a Helms, but I'm looking for the voices of experience in C4 Tech...
Last edited by j3studio; Jul 18, 2006 at 11:15 AM.
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Le Mans Master
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From: Philadelphia Burbs
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St. Jude Donor '06
Originally Posted by bogus
Just swap the wires, one at a time, so you don't loose track of their location.
First day of auto shop in 10th grade, the shop teacher asks me to pull all the spark plug wires from a distributer. So I do. "OK, how do you know which one is which?", he says.
I swear, I have gotten better since...
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Replace the plugs and wires as well. Buy a little pack of dielectric grease at the front counter for a buck and smear it over the points on the cap, and over the plug ceramics and electrodes. This will protect against moisture and corrosion and miss.
Might as well do the coil while you're at it too. Pay close attention on how the button and rubber washer are installed during disassembly. If you want to keep it NCRS, reuse the coil cover. It has only two screws on it. The replacement ones have 3 screws. Not sure about the cap itself. If the replacement cap also has 3 screw holes you'll be screwed under scrutiny.
Might as well do the coil while you're at it too. Pay close attention on how the button and rubber washer are installed during disassembly. If you want to keep it NCRS, reuse the coil cover. It has only two screws on it. The replacement ones have 3 screws. Not sure about the cap itself. If the replacement cap also has 3 screw holes you'll be screwed under scrutiny.
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Le Mans Master
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From: Philadelphia Burbs
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St. Jude Donor '06
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Replace the plugs and wires as well. Buy a little pack of dielectric grease at the front counter for a buck and smear it over the points on the cap, and over the plug ceramics and electrodes. This will protect against moisture and corrosion and miss.
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Might as well do the coil while you're at it too. Pay close attention on how the button and rubber washer are installed during disassembly. If you want to keep it NCRS, reuse the coil cover. It has only two screws on it. The replacement ones have 3 screws. Not sure about the cap itself. If the replacement cap also has 3 screw holes you'll be screwed under scrutiny.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: seattle WA
If it's running good I wouldn't, just make sure the plug wires aren't arcing on anything. The last dist. cap I bought, along with a new coil came with new screws.The igniton module is very easy...but once again, if it's running good, leave it alone.If I were you, I'd just replace the cap and rotor.
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Le Mans Master
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From: Philadelphia Burbs
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St. Jude Donor '06
Originally Posted by rick lambert
If it's running good I wouldn't, just make sure the plug wires aren't arcing on anything. The last dist. cap I bought, along with a new coil came with new screws. The ignition module is very easy...but once again, if it's running good, leave it alone. If I were you, I'd just replace the cap and rotor.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: seattle WA
Start reading the sections on the idle air control, commonly referred to as the IAC, then read the section on throttle position sensor or TPS. Get yourself a digital voltage ohm meter, that and a fuel pressure guage
are really important tool for trouble shooting our C4s.
are really important tool for trouble shooting our C4s.
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Le Mans Master
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From: Philadelphia Burbs
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St. Jude Donor '06
Originally Posted by rick lambert
Start reading the sections on the idle air control, commonly referred to as the IAC, then read the section on throttle position sensor or TPS.
Originally Posted by rick lambert
Get yourself a digital voltage ohm meter, that and a fuel pressure guage are really important tool for trouble shooting our C4s.
Pro
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From: chiefland fl
I agree, if you are still in the troubleshooting stages, try and spend as little as possible, you can check your ignition wires with an ohm meter acording to the manual, so save money where you can until you KNOW which system is giving you the trouble. unless...you have lots of $!!
then you can share with us?? lol
then you can share with us?? lol
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: seattle WA
I'm happy with the fuel pressure guage I got at Autozone, about $40.
Since you have an ohm meter you should probably ohm the injectors, hot and cold, they should read around 16, the important thing is they're all the same,if you read them let us know what you have, we can go from there.
Since you have an ohm meter you should probably ohm the injectors, hot and cold, they should read around 16, the important thing is they're all the same,if you read them let us know what you have, we can go from there.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
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From: Philadelphia Burbs
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St. Jude Donor '06
Originally Posted by billybonesmusic
I agree, if you are still in the troubleshooting stages, try and spend as little as possible, you can check your ignition wires with an ohm meter acording to the manual, so save money where you can until you KNOW which system is giving you the trouble. unless...you have lots of $!
...this is what happened with my Code 43/knocking issues.
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
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From: Torrington CT
Did my 85 late last summer with parts from one of the places we all see on tv. Cap, rotor ,wires,ign module ,coil, plugs. Took three ign modules to get me through 3 weeks running. Car started running like timing was retarded i hooked up timing light and light had almost second blink. clipped timing light pickup onto each plug wire and reved her up and the light went wild. Took cap off and found terminals were made of someting more like aluminum than copper or brass and most were loose. I ended up replacing with delco and light blinked one blink per fireing and car ran like new. Moral to me was no more junk to save money, it just isn't worth it. I re-replaced cap, rotor, wires, coil, ign coil, module. and the plugs that looked all fouled.
