Tell me what you think about this engine. Is there anything you would do differently? Is there anyway to bring the price down and still keep the same power?

Its rated at 520hp @6200 and 490lb/ft @4000
11.5:1 compression



Block: Thermally cleaned and Stainless Steel Shot. Inspected by MPI process. Decked, bored, honed with torque-plates and pressure washed. Clevite cam bearings and pioneer brass freeze plugs installed.
4-bolt main caps and ARP main studs.

Crank: Eagle 4340 forged steel 3.875” internal balance

Rods: Scat 4340 forged steel, 6” length floating pin.

Pistons: SRP forged

Rings: Speed Pro Plasma-Moly

Bearings: Clevite Main and Rod Bearings

Core Plugs: Brass Pioneer core plugs

Main Studs: ARP Performance main studs

Lifters: Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller

Pushrods: Comp Cams High Energy

Valve Springs: Comp Cams

Rocker Arms: Comp Cams Pro Magnum 7/16 Full-Roller 1.5 Ratio

Timing Set: GM LT4 roller timing set

Timing Cover: Recon Aluminum timing cover

Oil Delivery: Melling high volume pump, pickup tube and HD Drive

Oil Pan: New factory 5-quart

Gasket Set: Fel-Pro Performance

Head Bolts: ARP Performance Hex Head


Cam Manufacturer: Comp Cams
Type: Hydraulic Roller
Operating Range: 2300-6300 RPM
Idle Quality: Good
Duration: Intake: 236˚@ .050”
Exhaust: 244˚@ .050”
Lift: Intake: .585”
Exhaust: .580”
Lobe Separation: 112˚

Heads: Trick flow 195cc LT4 Aluminum Stage 2 Porting, Five Angle Performance Valve Job
Combustion Chamber: 64cc
Intake Runner: 195 cc
Intake Valves: Stainless Steel 2.02”
Exhaust Valves: Stainless Steel 1.60”

 

Only thing I would change is to 1.6RR and go with a regular M55 oil pump.

What did they have on the motor when they rated it? that would be my next question.

 

This is http://www.golenengineservice.com/sp...l/396_520.html.

It was featured in August (this month) of GM High-Tech Performance.

It made 521hp and 487lb/ft on an engine dyno, using the Trick Flow LT1 195cc heads and a LT1 intake.

I really like the engine, but I dont want to spend that much.

Is a forged crank really necessary for those power levels?

 

Forged pistons and rods would be, but you could get away with a cast crank, provided you keep your RPMs reasonable.

 

that 383 mini ram seems like a good deal.

 

It made 521hp and 487lb/ft on an engine dyno, using the Trick Flow LT1 195cc heads and a LT1 intake.
I really like the engine, but I dont want to spend that much.
Is a forged crank really necessary for those power levels?

This engine is making 1.3 HP/cu inch. That is a very healthy street engine. I would not cut any corners in order to drop the price a few hundred dollars. Engine failure is far more expensive. I am sure you have heard the old saying, "Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?" Seriously, Golen's prices are not out of line for the quality and performance they deliver.

 

Thats a fair price..Youll definitely need a tune, idle will be fairly rumpety.

 

True but it barely made 400RWHP on the chassis dyno...even through an automatic I consider that too low for a "521FWHP" engine

 

True.

I wish I understood that. It had a 3000 stall converter. Thats a 25% drivetrain loss. But it did make the 520 on the engine dyno, so the car was really experiencing a 25% drivetrain loss, or between the tune from the engine dyno and car dyno was pretty different.

If it wasnt for the engine being dyno'd on a engine dyno, I would be really worried about what that engine made given just the car dyno results.

 

Engine dynos, as well as chassis dynos can be "tweaked". I'm not saying that it was, I just think that a 25% drivetrain loss is quite excessive even for an auto tansmission, especially considering I would be expecting to see 430+RWHP on a 6-speed car with 520FWHP

I guess they just chose the wrong car to put it in to show off the engine.

 

then there is just the reality that dynos are simply there to compare, and comparing on engine cell to a chassis dyno is not always a fair comparison.

 

An engine on a dyno seldom has any periferral (how do you spell "periferral"?) equipment hooked up such as alternators, power steering, power brakes, full exhaust (mufflers/converters), plus it takes power to turn a converter, transmission internals, driveline, rear-end gears, axles, tires before the power ever gets to the ground at the rear wheels.

I used to estimate 80-hp as a rough amount of HP being absorbed by all this. Maybe that is not realistic anymore (ie: 520 - 80 = 440). Plus, you can bet the manufacturer has tuned the engine to a very fine point before they publish dyno figures. However, I believe it has become somewhat common to under report a crate engine's power in order to avoid consumer law suits. So you are right, 400 seems a bit low. But the 520 is probably a repeatable number.

 

, But looking at that combo the 400 RWHP in an auto seems a bit closer to what I have seen for that cam/head combo.