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I have a the same thing happening on my 96 except the dash vents will open in a couple of minutes and all is normal after that happens. I can shut down and crank right back up and same thing happens.
Same exact thing with my 96 EVERYTIME I get in the car and crank it up A/C blows thru the top vents then minutes later If Im lucky will come thru the a/c vents. Time or two it stayed on the dash vents.Ive just learned to deal with it.maybe I'll check these hoses
on the pass. side fuel cover..
This might sound strange but does your cruise control work??
I saved a few hundred bucks when I bought my 94 because the AC did this and the cruise didn't work. Turned out to be a $6 check valve that crumbled from the heat of the engine.
As a couple others have said it is under the passenger side fuel rail cover. It is a check valve and "T" fitting that splits the vacuum between the AC & cruise.
Here is a picture I took of mine
This is what it will be i reckon too. Either that or the vacuum line from it to the dash is cracked, and if its that, your cruise wont work then either.
Originally Posted by tommyg
I have a the same thing happening on my 96 except the dash vents will open in a couple of minutes and all is normal after that happens. I can shut down and crank right back up and same thing happens.
So Tommy, if you were to drive at a high throttle position for a while, do your vents go back to windscreen until you back off the loud pedal? If so it is also this part for you, but in your case, the guts of it are buggered. It allows flow one way (towards to manifold) if yours is doing that id say its internally shagged, and probably cracked too (which might not be visible cause if it works eventually id say its pretty minor). Also pull the rubber fitting off the manifold and spray some cleaner into the manifold through the tube .
My vents are now working again. I pushed the plug with the vacuum lines in it back further into the programmer. I also wiggled the connection on the top to see if that would help. It is now working. If your vents do come on eventually (mine would take up to 20 minutes to flip over) make sure that the fitting is tight enough.
Thanks SunCr for your help with each of these A/C threads. Your time is appreciated!!
It is really narrow up there where the programmer lives. I wasn't even able to get the programmer out but got it lower by removing the one bolt. Not sure how you would even replace the thing w/o taking off the bottom air-vent on the dr. side.
I used a long, flat screwdriver as a lever to push on the vacuum lines. They did get a lot tighter, but I couldn't get the plastic part flush with the programmer (not sure I need to?). It was impossible for me to bet two hands up there to push any harder.
Also, I have never been claustrophobic but laying on my back, feet straight up the air (shoes off works well) with the pedals hitting me in the head actually got me a little scared I'd never get back out of there.
Again, thanks everyone and I'm glad I didn't need to buy that programmer.
After dash vents open A/C operation is normal. Does not go back to window/deforester unless I shut engine down. After restart the same events take place and dash vent will open in a couple of minutes. Trottle position and car movement make no difference. The only thing that I'm concerned with is the first it's 95 OAT in Atlanta and the dash vent doesn't open.
You can make one quick check by removing the pass/side fuel rail cover & checking the vacuum fitting. I believe the vents go to a default position, as a safety feature, when vacuum problems occur.
Check the search portion. There are pictures of the valve there.
I also seem to have the same vents not working issue in my '96. I did a bit of trouble shooting today and have what is probably a stupid question, but I want to ask before I break anything. Can the connections for the vacuum lines at the programmer be disconnected by simply pulling on them? I tried this earlier and the lines were pretty tight in the greenish connector on the programmer. I would like to remove the lines from the programmer to do a bit of testing to ensure my vent doors are not stuck. Once I have it isolated to the programmer, I will replace it if necessary. One other possibly stupid question...How many lines are supposed to be connected to the programmer? My programmer seems to have 7 connectors with only 5 lines going to it (orange, pink, tan, black, and blue). As an FYI, I have already invested the precautionary $10 in the check valve so that is not the issue. I will test my cruise control tomorrow to ensure that a vacuum leak in the engine bay is not the cause. Any help would be appreciated.
This might sound strange but does your cruise control work??
I saved a few hundred bucks when I bought my 94 because the AC did this and the cruise didn't work. Turned out to be a $6 check valve that crumbled from the heat of the engine.
As a couple others have said it is under the passenger side fuel rail cover. It is a check valve and "T" fitting that splits the vacuum between the AC & cruise.
Here is a picture I took of mine
Damn!
Thanks alot. I have a 94 coupe and my A/C and Cruise Control haven't worked in years but after seeing the above post I checked it out, and my valve was cracked.
I'm going to replace it this weekend.
Thanks a million.
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