New Rocker Arms
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,878
Likes: 0
From: EP Texas
St. Jude Contributor
New Rocker Arms
I have a very slight ticking noice under the pass. side valve cover. I think the rocker arms need to be adgusted/tighten? Its not an exhaust leak. Should I simply get new 1.6 roller rockers? I never lifted the valve covers on this car, and they need to be painted anyhow 
Would the new rockers be worth it for perfromance? I like to get more perfromance while fixing a problem while I'm at it
Would the new rockers be worth it for perfromance? I like to get more perfromance while fixing a problem while I'm at it
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 9,713
Likes: 3
From: Sachse Texas
Cruise-In I Veteran
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: New Rocker Arms (TexCorvette)
I have a set of Crane Gold for sale in the For Sale section if you decide to upgrade. Your problem could be a number of things...valve lash need to be reset due to milage, lifter is going bad, springs are going weak. So it could be as easy as retightening the existing rockers, but like you said "while your in there" ;).
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: New Rocker Arms (TexCorvette)
I recently installed a set of Comp Cams ProMagnum 1.6:1 full rollers onto 7/16" ARP studs. These are not self-aligning and so require hardened guide plates and pushrods.
Since I have 103k miles on the clock (and the extra .030" of lift could use a little help) I did new Comp Cams springs shimmed to about 90lbs seat pressure (a little higher than stock) with Ti retainers, 10deg locks and discarded the oil shedders to lighten up the top (I estimate the stock shedders, retainers and locks weigh twice as much as the new setup). I did the O-ring top oil seals but kept the old Teflon bottom oil seals.
It now has 1.6:1 rockers on intake and exhaust with the stock cam and idle is maybe even smoother than before.
Initial testing saw no gain from this mod but there were knock count problems at the time. Subsequent upgrade to the ECS module eliminated the timing retard due to knock counts and trap speed improved by nearly 1 mph. My stock 700R/4 shifts at about 4,600-4,800 rpm which is a little low for my motor (see dyno pulls on my site). I believe that I will see another 1-2 mph gain when I can shift at 5,400 rpm and take advantage of the better breathing up top.
The hardest part was getting the valve covers off and and turning the crank to set the lash. The rest was mostly a matter of $$$ and learning technique.
BTW, when I had the valve covers off I cleaned, wet sanded with 220 grit and painted (wet sanding with 600 grit between coats) with very nice results. I used about 1 1/2 cans of MAD's valve cover paint (better to have a little too much). I also had to replace the two groumets (PCV & breather) as they disintegrated during removal.
Since I have 103k miles on the clock (and the extra .030" of lift could use a little help) I did new Comp Cams springs shimmed to about 90lbs seat pressure (a little higher than stock) with Ti retainers, 10deg locks and discarded the oil shedders to lighten up the top (I estimate the stock shedders, retainers and locks weigh twice as much as the new setup). I did the O-ring top oil seals but kept the old Teflon bottom oil seals.
It now has 1.6:1 rockers on intake and exhaust with the stock cam and idle is maybe even smoother than before.
Initial testing saw no gain from this mod but there were knock count problems at the time. Subsequent upgrade to the ECS module eliminated the timing retard due to knock counts and trap speed improved by nearly 1 mph. My stock 700R/4 shifts at about 4,600-4,800 rpm which is a little low for my motor (see dyno pulls on my site). I believe that I will see another 1-2 mph gain when I can shift at 5,400 rpm and take advantage of the better breathing up top.
The hardest part was getting the valve covers off and and turning the crank to set the lash. The rest was mostly a matter of $$$ and learning technique.
BTW, when I had the valve covers off I cleaned, wet sanded with 220 grit and painted (wet sanding with 600 grit between coats) with very nice results. I used about 1 1/2 cans of MAD's valve cover paint (better to have a little too much). I also had to replace the two groumets (PCV & breather) as they disintegrated during removal.
