AC Conversion
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 522
Likes: 3
From: Rolling Meadows IL
AC Conversion
I have an 85 with manual AC. The AC compressor is cycling on/off every few seconds and it’s not very cold. I want to get it converted to 134a. I called a few AC shops and they say I don’t need new O-rings just get out the old oil and r12, put new oil and 134a in, new fittings and that’s it. I thought you needed new O-rings to convert from R12 to 134a.
Has anyone converted without changing the O-rings. If so, how long has the AC been working with the 134a. Has anyone converted to Freeze 12 or FRIGC FR-12. They are EPA approved. http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrig...sts/mvacs.html
I asked one shop about Freeze 12 and he got huffy and ended our call. What’s up with that?
Has anyone converted without changing the O-rings. If so, how long has the AC been working with the 134a. Has anyone converted to Freeze 12 or FRIGC FR-12. They are EPA approved. http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrig...sts/mvacs.html
I asked one shop about Freeze 12 and he got huffy and ended our call. What’s up with that?
Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 506
Likes: 12
From: Savannah GA
They are right. Most of the time the o-rings won't leak.
You might look into one of the mixes like Freeze12. They don't require the oil change. They also cool better than R134a. A lot of people have had good results from R134a. In the deep south it might not make it.
Recover the R12, make sure the compressor isn't rattling because it's low on oil and put a what ever drop in coolant people are using in your area will be the least expensive way to go and will cool as good as new.
JS
You might look into one of the mixes like Freeze12. They don't require the oil change. They also cool better than R134a. A lot of people have had good results from R134a. In the deep south it might not make it.
Recover the R12, make sure the compressor isn't rattling because it's low on oil and put a what ever drop in coolant people are using in your area will be the least expensive way to go and will cool as good as new.
JS
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,898
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
I had mine converted to R134A last year. They evacuated the system, chaned the high/low pressure fittings, recharged with R134A, and a bit of oil. Final cost was $110 and change. I can't tell a difference in the coolness of the A/C, but R134A has a funky smell to it. Not an unpleasent smell by any means, just an odd odor. You get used to it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
Refrigerants don't mix and noone wants to contaminate their equipment once it's dedicated to a specific gas. That's why a shop shrugged off your request for something they don't use and if you do use it, you may find it difficult to get anyone to service it if you screw it up or just decide you no longer want to do it yourself. Freeze 12 is 80% R134. Here's Arizona's Mobile Air's test results on various refrigerants:
http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...&threadid=9171
http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...&threadid=9171
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 96,443
Likes: 9
From: Fort Knox, KY
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R134a from a cooling and reliability standpoint doesn't seem too bad. The problem is the PAG lubricant used with it.
It is extremely hygroscopic and breaks down becoming corrosive if it absorbs moisture. Sometimes repairs entail replacing EVERYTHING, compressor, condenser, evaporator, hoses, and all associated piping.
I'm sure this makes Detroit, parts dealers, and repair shops happy, because the expense of repairing a bad out-of-warrenty AC makes cars more disposable. A more "Green" way to go would be to make cars last longer, but that doesn't create more pay for automotive CEO's. They make money only if used cars are crushed.
In the old R12/mineral oil systems, moisture intrusion really only meant you needed to replace the dryer, pull a vacuum on the system and refill. If a system was abused to the point of desiccant breakdown, little more than a dryer, compressor, and system flush might be needed.
Remember, you can STILL get R12, contrary to what many people believe. I switched my 92 back to R12 from R134a because it gets colder, especially in a high-humidity environment like we have in Kentucky.
It is extremely hygroscopic and breaks down becoming corrosive if it absorbs moisture. Sometimes repairs entail replacing EVERYTHING, compressor, condenser, evaporator, hoses, and all associated piping.
I'm sure this makes Detroit, parts dealers, and repair shops happy, because the expense of repairing a bad out-of-warrenty AC makes cars more disposable. A more "Green" way to go would be to make cars last longer, but that doesn't create more pay for automotive CEO's. They make money only if used cars are crushed.
In the old R12/mineral oil systems, moisture intrusion really only meant you needed to replace the dryer, pull a vacuum on the system and refill. If a system was abused to the point of desiccant breakdown, little more than a dryer, compressor, and system flush might be needed.
Remember, you can STILL get R12, contrary to what many people believe. I switched my 92 back to R12 from R134a because it gets colder, especially in a high-humidity environment like we have in Kentucky.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
Get your 609 license at www.epatest.com or go back to www.epa.gov and use any of the sites listed. Try Autozone for R12 (it's where I buy mine). I usually have to ask for the Mgr as the pimply faced kid behind the counter is too busy calling Homeland Security after I ask to buy it. After producing my license, fingerprinting and proving citzenship, I usually walk away with the 3 or 4 cans I need for about $14/can (I've actually been to 2 or 3 Autozones on the same day and paid a different price for it at each one).
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