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I'm replacing the 8 gauge positive battery cable that comes off the alternator with a new 4 gauge wire. I'm doing this on the advice of the shop that sold me a high-output alternator (new alternator is a 160amp vs. 105amp stock).
This positive battery cable has a fuseable link where it connects to the distribution block ("Jump Start Block" according to the Helms Manual) just behind the battery. My question is, do I need to put a fuseable link on the new wire, or can I leave it out? If I need to keep the fuseable link, is it a problem to cut the old cable just before the fuseable link and splice the new 4 gauge wire to the old link or should I just get a new fuseable link all together?
I'd get a new fusible link, and this is just my thinking, you're actually increasing the wire size going from 8 to 4, typically the fusible link is 4guages smaller than the circuit guage wire, and you don't want your new fusible link..if your using fusible link wire, to be any longer than 9 inches, I use about 6. Also replace Hypalon with Hypalon..I'd go to NAPPA, if they need to they can look into their NAPPA BELDEN catalog # 25524.
And there is no way I'd leave it out..unless you want to take the chance on trashing the ciruits it protects. Fuel pump relay, oil pressure switch, fan(s) and possibly the ECM.
Last edited by rick lambert; Aug 5, 2006 at 02:40 PM.
Thanks for responding. I agree - the fuseable link is important so I definitaly don't want to eliminate it. Unfortuantely, I can't seem to find a fuseable link that will fit a 4 AWG cable (this is a BIG cable compared to the stock 8 AWG cable).
I have however taken a look at in line fuses stereo installers use for high-end stereo systems. This might be a good option. But what size of fuse should I use? The alternator is rated at 160amps, so should I use a 150amp fuse or should I look at a 175amp fuse?
That's a good question for jfb or SunCr. Did you check with NAPPA? they had both fusible links and fusible link wire in rolls when I got mine.So, if you're running 4 guage..the fusible link from a wire roll would be 16 guage fusible link in the wire roll. I'll take a look when I get home.
I really can't offer any advice on the fuse...but you definetly want the fuse to go before it takes out the device or circuit.
I seem to be having a problem with my fusable link and was reading this, could anyone tell me if this has to be made or if I went to Napa and asked for a fusable link for an 84, would this be a normal stocked item?
I'm replacing the 8 gauge positive battery cable that comes off the alternator with a new 4 gauge wire.
The factory 8 AWG wire from the Alternator Battery terminal to the Jumper Block used a 12 AWG fusible link to protect the circuit.
If you replace the 8 AWG wire with a 4 AWG wire you can use a 8 AWG fusible link to protect the circuit.
Another problem you need to address is the wire from the Battery Jumper block to the Battery which is only a 6 AWG. You need to install a larger cable from the Battery Jumper block to the Battery. Your choices would be a 4 AWG, 2AWG or if you have a dual post battery, go from the top positive post direct to your 4AWG wire with the 8AWG fusible link to the Alternator and bypass the Battery Jumper block.
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; Aug 5, 2006 at 10:06 PM.
You also do not want toremove the fusible link from an insurance standpoint. They'll never pay you out if they find out a FL was removed and the battery or alternator was the cause of a fire.
Another problem you need to address is the wire from the Battery Jumper block to the Battery which is only a 6 AWG. You need to install a larger cable from the Battery Jumper block to the Battery.
I thought about that, but seeing as the cable from the jumper block to the battery is only about a foot long (maybe less), do you really think it's necessary? I don't mean to be knocking your suggestion, but would it really be worth it (6 AWG cable is still a substantial sized cable)?
If it's critical, then I'll do it, otherwise I'd rather just leave it.
You also do not want toremove the fusible link from an insurance standpoint. They'll never pay you out if they find out a FL was removed and the battery or alternator was the cause of a fire.
Good point - I didn't think of that. Thanks Scorp!
I don't mean to be knocking your suggestion, but would it really be worth it (6 AWG cable is still a substantial sized cable)?
If it's critical, then I'll do it, otherwise I'd rather just leave it.
The best method would be to use a clamp type amp meter, turn all of the lights on, fan, AC and accessories etc... and measure the DC current draw. Then you can determine the wire size you would actually need. 4 AWG may be over kill.
I looked in the Helms manual for a 93 Vette which uses a 124 amp alternator and the wire size is 8 AWG with a 12 AWG fusible link.
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; Aug 6, 2006 at 05:52 PM.