How to remove ball joint from A-Arm?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 428
Likes: 0
From: Morgantown WV
How to remove ball joint from A-Arm?
I purchased a kit to lower my corvette a couple of years ago and am finally getting around to doing it. I also bought a full set of poly bushings for the front suspension along with new tie rods and ball joints. I figured while I have it apart I might as well replace them as well even though they didn't need it. Well, I got stuck and now it has been sitting for the past month right during summer which is bumming me out. I removed the front spring without a problem and installed the wedges. I have everything else apart but I can't seem to get the ball joints out of the A-Arms. They are pressed in there. I would just say to heck with replacing them but I beat on one of them so much that I would no longer trust it. There must be a trick to getting these out without damaging anything? I have the ball joint removal tool kit I purchased from Corvette America but it looks like that was only good to separate the upper from the lower but not to actually pull them out of the A-Arms. Any advice would be appreciated so I can get this lowered beast out of the garage and practice bottoming it out all over West Virginia's pot hole stricken roads! Thanks for any help, Al
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
That c-clamp at HF might be enough to remove them, but maybe not to get the new ones in.
Not all the new ones will fit. I bought a set from Napa, they were too big, were going to break my 10 ton press if they didn't snap the control arms first. I returned them for some MOOG bj's, those went right in.
Not all the new ones will fit. I bought a set from Napa, they were too big, were going to break my 10 ton press if they didn't snap the control arms first. I returned them for some MOOG bj's, those went right in.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,270
Likes: 118
From: N. Babylon NY
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
That c-clamp at HF might be enough to remove them, but maybe not to get the new ones in.
Steven
Drifting
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 28
From: Woodbridge NJ
I understand quite a few Corvette Forum members bring the A Arm to a local shop to have the ball joints pressed out and the new ones installed. Having the correct tool is the key to success.
Beleive me, I know all about the BFH!
Beleive me, I know all about the BFH!
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,032
Likes: 4
I rented the ball joint tool kit from autozone (free!) - which is the same thing HB sells - and did the lowers (and uppers) on my '85.
The old ones fell to pieces when I pressed them out. The new ones went in slowly (I had to keep making sure they were going staight), but they went in fine.
2 comments - I did that with the A-Arms on the car. And the new ball joints have made the biggest single difference in handling on my car since I've bought it.
The old ones fell to pieces when I pressed them out. The new ones went in slowly (I had to keep making sure they were going staight), but they went in fine.
2 comments - I did that with the A-Arms on the car. And the new ball joints have made the biggest single difference in handling on my car since I've bought it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 1
From: sd
Originally Posted by Brimis
I understand quite a few Corvette Forum members bring the A Arm to a local shop to have the ball joints pressed out and the new ones installed. Having the correct tool is the key to success.
Beleive me, I know all about the BFH!
Beleive me, I know all about the BFH!
Take them off the car, drop them off at a local alignment shop and a few bucks and you're good to go.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh NC
How hard is it to get the a-arms off? Sorry for the stupid question but my friends 1995 needs lower ball joints replaced and the estimate he got from the shop was $1100 for the upper and lower. I thought we might try to tackle this project ourselves if we can. I've changed brake pads, replaced weatherstrip, "helped" replace front shocks, etc.
How would pulling the A-Arms compare in difficulty??
Any suggestions or pics or step by step instructions on this?
How would pulling the A-Arms compare in difficulty??
Any suggestions or pics or step by step instructions on this?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,386
Likes: 534
Originally Posted by Serenity Now
How hard is it to get the a-arms off? Sorry for the stupid question but my friends 1995 needs lower ball joints replaced and the estimate he got from the shop was $1100 for the upper and lower. I thought we might try to tackle this project ourselves if we can. I've changed brake pads, replaced weatherstrip, "helped" replace front shocks, etc.
How would pulling the A-Arms compare in difficulty?? Any suggestions or pics or step by step instructions on this?
How would pulling the A-Arms compare in difficulty??
Any suggestions or pics or step by step instructions on this?A shop did mine for $80. I just took the lower arms off the car and brought them into them along with the new balljoints. If you and your friend can get the lower arms off and bring them in, that should cut down on all the labor they would charge you. Be careful about that leafspring, it's a pain. Upper balljoints you could replace with hand tools. A center punch to make an impression on the rivets to begin your drilling them out. Then the new upper ball joints drop in place and are secured by screws. As long as you feel like getting your hands dirty, you'd be surprised at the money you'll start to save.
Last edited by 1985 Corvette; Aug 30, 2006 at 03:34 PM.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh NC
Originally Posted by 1985 Corvette
A shop did mine for $80. I just took the lower arms off the car and brought them into them along with the new balljoints. If you and your friend can get the lower arms off and bring them in, that should cut down on all the labor they would charge you. Be careful about that leafspring, it's a pain. Upper balljoints you could replace with hand tools. A center punch to make an impression on the rivets to begin your drilling them out. Then the new upper ball joints drop in place and are secured by screws. As long as you feel like getting your hands dirty, you'd be surprised at the money you'll start to save.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Jack the car up, put front on jackstands as high as you can get it.
Put the jack under the lower control arm balljoint, sideways to the car (this prevents from side loading the jack). You may want to use some type of donut shaped thing on the jack pad so you're not putting the pressure on the grease nipple. Jack it up until the spring is loaded up.
disconnect the shock, sway bar links, and the lower ball joint nut. Use the "Pitman Arm Puller" tool from Autozone to seperate the ball joint if it can't be done by hand. Support the upper control arm/rotor/knuckle assembly with bailing wire or something under the rotor so you don't overextend your upper ball joint or brake line.
Now, slowly release the jack to relieve the spring. It'll drop really far, the non-Z51 springs have a ton of arch.
Once you've got that done, just push down on the lower control arm to pop it loose from the spring, and then remove the two bolts.
Put the jack under the lower control arm balljoint, sideways to the car (this prevents from side loading the jack). You may want to use some type of donut shaped thing on the jack pad so you're not putting the pressure on the grease nipple. Jack it up until the spring is loaded up.
disconnect the shock, sway bar links, and the lower ball joint nut. Use the "Pitman Arm Puller" tool from Autozone to seperate the ball joint if it can't be done by hand. Support the upper control arm/rotor/knuckle assembly with bailing wire or something under the rotor so you don't overextend your upper ball joint or brake line.
Now, slowly release the jack to relieve the spring. It'll drop really far, the non-Z51 springs have a ton of arch.
Once you've got that done, just push down on the lower control arm to pop it loose from the spring, and then remove the two bolts.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh NC
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Jack the car up, put front on jackstands as high as you can get it.
Put the jack under the lower control arm balljoint, sideways to the car (this prevents from side loading the jack). You may want to use some type of donut shaped thing on the jack pad so you're not putting the pressure on the grease nipple. Jack it up until the spring is loaded up.
disconnect the shock, sway bar links, and the lower ball joint nut. Use the "Pitman Arm Puller" tool from Autozone to seperate the ball joint if it can't be done by hand. Support the upper control arm/rotor/knuckle assembly with bailing wire or something under the rotor so you don't overextend your upper ball joint or brake line.
Now, slowly release the jack to relieve the spring. It'll drop really far, the non-Z51 springs have a ton of arch.
Once you've got that done, just push down on the lower control arm to pop it loose from the spring, and then remove the two bolts.
Put the jack under the lower control arm balljoint, sideways to the car (this prevents from side loading the jack). You may want to use some type of donut shaped thing on the jack pad so you're not putting the pressure on the grease nipple. Jack it up until the spring is loaded up.
disconnect the shock, sway bar links, and the lower ball joint nut. Use the "Pitman Arm Puller" tool from Autozone to seperate the ball joint if it can't be done by hand. Support the upper control arm/rotor/knuckle assembly with bailing wire or something under the rotor so you don't overextend your upper ball joint or brake line.
Now, slowly release the jack to relieve the spring. It'll drop really far, the non-Z51 springs have a ton of arch.
Once you've got that done, just push down on the lower control arm to pop it loose from the spring, and then remove the two bolts.
Thanks!
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 418
Likes: 45
From: Houston Texas
Is there an ideal way to check the ball joints..? Can you identify a bad one if the other ball joint is good..?
I have every tool HF sells; just came back yesterday ....needed a fix bad, only dropped $100.
If I do replace, and want to stay away from a harsh ride, any recommendations...would the moog's be OK..?
I have every tool HF sells; just came back yesterday ....needed a fix bad, only dropped $100.
If I do replace, and want to stay away from a harsh ride, any recommendations...would the moog's be OK..?
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,477
Likes: 87
Originally Posted by Serenity Now
Just for fun we got an estimate from the Chevrolet dealership on replacing all 4 u-joints. They said roughly $1200 total
$1200!!! What crooks!
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by F1Fan
The tool that Autozone rents is not great, but sufficient.
$1200!!! What crooks!
$1200!!! What crooks!
The autozone tool did not quite fit into my lower control arm, the aluminum bars extending out got in the way. I used my bench grinder to "fix" their tool to make it fit. The next Corvette guy that borrows it will be thankful.
