fixed ac, car feels funny
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Edmond Ok
fixed ac, car feels funny
i was having problems with my ac, so i recharged it. but my compressor wont kick on unless the ac system is first turned on and then i smack the compressor. its the only way that the compressor will work. kinda ghetto huh? is there something i could do to fix this? im in the navy so your tax dollars helped get me a vette, just not afford the repairs on one. so i cant afford a new compressor. my bro just got one on his 94 and it cost him 533. outragouse. but when the ac does work, everyonce in a while ill feel my car studder and make a knocking sound at idle. the rpms dont change tho. i have no idea what that could be besides crappy gas.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
The compressor shouldn't engage unless a/c (or an a/c function - like Defrost - is selected).
Having to rap the compressor to get it going hints at a bad clutch coil or complete assembly and if you're getting noise, it probably needs a new one. About $150 to $250 depending on whether you buy from the Discounters or the Dealer. Somewhat of a bitch to replace on the LT's as the main hose assembly is in the way, but it's doable. Grasp the outer hub with a strap wrench or oil filter wrench pliers and take off the 10 mm retaining nut. With your hand underneath it, pry off the hub and catch any shims (1/4" washers) that were used to maintain the air gap. You'll then need to get some snap ring pliers between the hoses to remove the snap rings that hold on the pulley and coil. Reinstall in reverse order and shim the outer hub until there's a .020 clearence between it and the pulley.
Having to rap the compressor to get it going hints at a bad clutch coil or complete assembly and if you're getting noise, it probably needs a new one. About $150 to $250 depending on whether you buy from the Discounters or the Dealer. Somewhat of a bitch to replace on the LT's as the main hose assembly is in the way, but it's doable. Grasp the outer hub with a strap wrench or oil filter wrench pliers and take off the 10 mm retaining nut. With your hand underneath it, pry off the hub and catch any shims (1/4" washers) that were used to maintain the air gap. You'll then need to get some snap ring pliers between the hoses to remove the snap rings that hold on the pulley and coil. Reinstall in reverse order and shim the outer hub until there's a .020 clearence between it and the pulley.
