1988 heater core
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 2
From: Elgin Il
I did my '89 last year.
The job was pretty easy, with the exception of the last two top bolts on the heater box. I pulled the right one, and left the left one in so I didnt have to re-install it. It does take a while.
I also snapped the little platic door gizmo that hold the motor lever to the door inside the box when I put it back together, and had to do it twice!
The job was pretty easy, with the exception of the last two top bolts on the heater box. I pulled the right one, and left the left one in so I didnt have to re-install it. It does take a while.
I also snapped the little platic door gizmo that hold the motor lever to the door inside the box when I put it back together, and had to do it twice!
Racer
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 266
Likes: 7
From: Sumner WA
See my post in this thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1216678
It's not as bad as it seems. Definitely DON'T take your dash apart.
Ron
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1216678
It's not as bad as it seems. Definitely DON'T take your dash apart.
Ron
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 125
From: Dunstable MA
St. Jude Donor '05
The article posted shows that you have to remove the breadbox and the lower carpeted dash section on the left. Not so! I did mine a couple of years ago, and I did remove the top of the dash. I prefer looking at the world right-side-up, so that helped. It also provided another angle of approach for the fasteners on the ECM and the core housing.
If you can find a magnet for your 7mm socket, that would be a real plus. I couldn't, so I used a dab of grease to hold the little bolts in the socket during installation. The toughest reach is for the bolts on the top of the core housing, and I can relate to the frustration that led to Clay_Assasin's approach
Keep reaching though, all the unseen bolts are 7mm, (so now you can save time trying different sizes). Once inside the core housing, you'll be further frustrated by the clips that hold the core into it. They aren't as bad as the housing bolts themselves, but you just don't need another hurdle at that point.
I took out the passenger's seat and put a worklight in the hatch area pointed at the dash. I wish I had taken the time to cover the seat mounting bolts (ouch). I wish I had raised the car up a bit (Ooh, my back), and I wish I had taken the time to remove the top to ease some of those twisted up positions I had to get into.
Take note of the order of removal of the various parts. The manual has an error in it for the assembly, and I got stuck back-tracking. (I think it was relating to the heater door positioner and the ECM.) The manual also has you remove the flexible duct that routes the defroster to the passenger's door. It's a pain to get back in, and it is only necessary to free it up at the other end and push it out of the way. I wish I'd done that too.
In the end, you will be battered but not beaten. This is do-able, and it is strictly mechanical (no electronics). It is not a simple evening repair. It took me three nights to do it and two more to recover. I say go for it. Afterall, everybody should have to do the crap I had to do!
If you can find a magnet for your 7mm socket, that would be a real plus. I couldn't, so I used a dab of grease to hold the little bolts in the socket during installation. The toughest reach is for the bolts on the top of the core housing, and I can relate to the frustration that led to Clay_Assasin's approach
Keep reaching though, all the unseen bolts are 7mm, (so now you can save time trying different sizes). Once inside the core housing, you'll be further frustrated by the clips that hold the core into it. They aren't as bad as the housing bolts themselves, but you just don't need another hurdle at that point.I took out the passenger's seat and put a worklight in the hatch area pointed at the dash. I wish I had taken the time to cover the seat mounting bolts (ouch). I wish I had raised the car up a bit (Ooh, my back), and I wish I had taken the time to remove the top to ease some of those twisted up positions I had to get into.
Take note of the order of removal of the various parts. The manual has an error in it for the assembly, and I got stuck back-tracking. (I think it was relating to the heater door positioner and the ECM.) The manual also has you remove the flexible duct that routes the defroster to the passenger's door. It's a pain to get back in, and it is only necessary to free it up at the other end and push it out of the way. I wish I'd done that too.
In the end, you will be battered but not beaten. This is do-able, and it is strictly mechanical (no electronics). It is not a simple evening repair. It took me three nights to do it and two more to recover. I say go for it. Afterall, everybody should have to do the crap I had to do!
Race Director
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 14,924
Likes: 9
From: Merritt Ils Fl
Originally Posted by oneonone
Alright how hard is this to do. Can anyone post directions on how to do ??????? Thank's
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,723
Likes: 11
From: Winnipeg Manitoba, Canada
Originally Posted by Muffin
Everyone has their own tale to tell about heater cores. Mine is simply this: The General started with a heater core and built a car aound it. I will pull and rebuild an engine before I will tackle another heater core, on second thought, make that two engines and a transmission.
C'mon its not that bad!
Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 550
Likes: 0
From: Hesperia California
Put your car on ramps or something to raise it up. Also go to Sears or another tool place and get a flex 1/4" drive extension. Sears also has a set of 1/4" accessories that include handy little tools.
The job is doable but frustrating!
The job is doable but frustrating!
Pro
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 715
Likes: 0
From: Warner Robins GA
I did the heater core on my 88 without taking the dash apart. Take out the passenger seat, lay down a blanket (so you don't have the studs grinding into your back), and get to work. Actual working time was about 2 hours, start to finish. But I took quite a few breaks in between because I got tired of holding my arms up above me.
The most difficult part is taking out the bolts around the box that contains the heater core. I believe that's most likely why they say to take the dash apart, because it can be tricky to get to some of the bolts. I only ended up having a problem with one of them, and a swivel took care of it. I had absolutely no problems at all except for that, and the bolts are easy to feel out with your fingers.
The most difficult part is taking out the bolts around the box that contains the heater core. I believe that's most likely why they say to take the dash apart, because it can be tricky to get to some of the bolts. I only ended up having a problem with one of them, and a swivel took care of it. I had absolutely no problems at all except for that, and the bolts are easy to feel out with your fingers.
