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I THINK urethane, but i'm not positive. As far as what's better, for your paint's sake, you want whatever is the least flexible. The more flexible it is, the more likely you are to eventually crack your paint.
I'm pretty sure it's urethane too. Just make sure when it's painted the flex agent is mixed in with the paint, it'll allow it to flex a lot more before it cracks.
It is urethane, and I'd recomend staying with it.JMO. You can call GM, I believe it's still available, if not aftermarket. $800 -$1200, used about half. About $600 for truflex which is just fiberglass. It does flex alittle, but back into anything and you've got a hole.
It is urethane, and I'd recomend staying with it.JMO. You can call GM, I believe it's still available, if not aftermarket. $800 -$1200, used about half. About $600 for truflex which is just fiberglass. It does flex alittle, but back into anything and you've got a hole.
If truflex is fiberglass, that's the way i'd go. It would be MUCH better for the life of your paint, and as far as i'm concerned, if you back into anything with your corvette you deserve a hole...... Also, if you ever do hit anything, if it messes the urethane up you're screwed, if it busts the fiberglass it can almost always be repaired unless it's just completely destroyed.
I do some painting on the side, and I can't tell you how many times i've had friends and family needing me to paint a plastic/urethane bumper, fender, or spoiler b/c the paint is either cracked or is just wearing off. The rest of the car that's either metal or fiberglass will be fine, so the problem is not so much with the paint, as the surface it is applied to.
now does anyone know how to get the bumper off.
i have removed the nuts from the upper corners and the visible ones behind the reverse lights.
also the ones going to the crash bar in the back have broken through.
what bolts are left?
now does anyone know how to get the bumper off.
i have removed the nuts from the upper corners and the visible ones behind the reverse lights.
also the ones going to the crash bar in the back have broken through.
what bolts are left?
A couple behind the license place, 3 on each side behind the wheel well attaching it to the quarter panels, and two on the honeycomb piece, near the mufflers.
I have no idea what new prices are, but you'll be able to find a nice used one for aroune $150, if you search. Maybe less if your not picky about colors.
Your goal is this right?
Last edited by mikey whipreck; Aug 16, 2006 at 04:16 PM.
Take off the inner rear fender wells. There are 4, I believe 10mm nuts that attach the sides, 4 up the corner and about 8-10 7mm screws along the top rim. Unscreww the two 10mm screws that hold each of the lamps in.There are a couple of screws on the bottom lip and a couple of 10mm bolts by the license plate. PM me if you need more help.
Heads front, they screw toward the rear.through the rear quarter, rear bumper and then a metal strap. You need to take the tail lamps out first and the gas door to access them.
A couple behind the license place, 3 on each side behind the wheel well attaching it to the quarter panels, and two on the honeycomb piece, near the mufflers.
I have no idea what new prices are, but you'll be able to find a nice used one for aroune $150, if you search. Maybe less if your not picky about colors.
Your goal is this right?
That horizontal black colored frame piece in front of your gas tank. . . is that part of the frame of the car, or is it removeable? If that is pushed in, what a re the chances for a jack stand mechanic fixing or replacin that damaged part?
It's the rear sub-frame, bolts on to the frame (aluminum I believe). Looks like this when a "F-250" slides into you--
When you take off the rear sub frame, do you have to align it in any special way to prevent improper alignment of the bumper and body fit. Or is it a tight non-adjustable piece? thanks in advance!