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This is my first time for bleeding the brakes on my 84. I just put on new rotors and painted the calipers. So, is there any tips or advice for bleeding the brakes on these cars???? I am planning on doing it this weekend, before Carlisle. To my knowledge, the brakes have never been blead. The car only has 33000 on it. Do I run a risk of snapping a bleeder off??
Although I haven't done the brakes on this car yet, all the Chevys I've done in the past were 3/8" bleeders. At the very least, go to the auto parts store and get the cheapo bleeder kit. Basically it's a hose with a one way valve in it that you slide over the top of the bleeder after putting the wrench on it (use a box end wrench). Put the free end of the hose in a glass jar that will hold about a pint of fluid. (You can use a plastic container, but it is more apt to tip over or move when you loosen the bleeder screw and can be a pain in the butt.) Now have an assistant get in the car (make sure the window is open so you can hear each other). Have them pump the brakes about five times then hold it. I like to have them say "okay" at that point. Crack the bleeder open and watch the fluid gush out. When the pedal hits the floor, have them say "okay" again, then tighten the bleeder. Repeat this process until no more bubbles come out of the hose. Start with the right rear, then left rear, then left front, and finally right front. Supposedly you can do the pumping yourself with the speed bleeder kit, but I don't like to take chances with the one way valve and the seal of the hose on the bleeder. Gooping grease on the bleeder valve prior to putting on the hose might make you feel better. If you do it by yourself, it is hard to tell if the bubbles go away, though. By yourself, crack the valve open and then jump in and pump away.
You can get 10 to 12 pumps in before you have to check the fluid level in the master cylinder. Pop the top off and fill the reservoir. Make sure you put the cap back on tight before pumping the brakes or you will squirt brake fluid all over.
If you are replacing the fluid in your system, spend the $25 or so at Walmart on the Mighty Vac. It's basically a hand pump vacuum with a bunch of hoses and adaptors. You put your wrench on the bleeder valve and then attach the Mighty Vac to it. Crack the valve and start pumping. The fluid will accumulate in the canister at the bottom of the vacuum pump. After you pump out a couple of inches of fluid, close the valve and go add fluid to the MC. Repeat this process until you get nice clean fluid at the pump with no bubbles. Go to the next wheel and repeat.
The bleed caps on my 89 Vette are 10 mm in size. I would highly recommend the Mityvac device over the traditional two person pump and release method. Sears sells the Mityvac and it is available in the plastic version for about $30. The metal version is $70. Having a Vette, you will use this in the future.
Easiest way maybe it was already suggested (Didn't read all the posts above), but to get a vacuum pump from autozone or equiv. ~25dollars.
I start by sucking all the crud out of the mastercyliner resevoirs, and cleaning them real good. Refill with fresh fluid. Biggest thing now is keeping that resevoir FILLED, don't let it go empty.
Go to the wheel furthest away and break the bleeder loose. Have your pump there and a jug for the old fluid to flow into. Put the hose on the end of it and start pumping. All the old brown/black fluid will come out followed by clear new stuff. Again keep an eye on the resevoir. Keep putting fluid in as needed. Helps if you have someone stand there and keep pouring it in as needed. Once you get a good stream of clear fluid, tighten down the bleeder with the hose STILL attached and try to keep a column of fluid above the bleeder so air has no change of going back in.
Just move to the next wheel and repeat. Entire process should only take about 20minutes. Taking the wheels off and on is the biggest part of it.
Makes a BIG difference in how well your car will stop. Brake fluid has an affinity for water, which is why it turns black/brown - this water causes it to loose its ability to withstand boiling and it looses its effectiveness.