Problem with Rearend? or U-Joints?
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Pro
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Clarkston Mi
Problem with Rearend? or U-Joints?
Gotta 93, with a ZF6. >80k miles. When I let out the clutch in 2nd, or 3rd - while not really pushing the car, I get a squeek that sounds like it is coming from the rear of the car. It is not the brakes. Also had a rather loud popping sound a couple times when loading up the system. When I had her on the hoist a couple weeks ago, the rear end did not appear to have a ton of freeplay when moving the rear wheels.
When I did the engine work, I replaced the driveshaft U-joints (couple years ago). The halfshaft U-joints were not replaced, I believe that they are original.
The rear does not leak, but I am not going to rule that out as the culprit. Trans/clutch works properly. Also not going to rule that out. Am I looking at a halfshaft U-joint problem? I actually have the parts to replace the U-joints... never got around to it...
Your thoughts?
When I did the engine work, I replaced the driveshaft U-joints (couple years ago). The halfshaft U-joints were not replaced, I believe that they are original.
The rear does not leak, but I am not going to rule that out as the culprit. Trans/clutch works properly. Also not going to rule that out. Am I looking at a halfshaft U-joint problem? I actually have the parts to replace the U-joints... never got around to it...
Your thoughts?
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 210
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From: Lakewood CO
When you say the rear end doesn't have much play, what are you referring to? If you grab the rear wheels at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and you have play then your rear bearings are loose. If you grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and you have play then it could be your half shaft u-joints but could be tie rod ends as well.
Since you have the u-joints already why not just replace them? At 80k they could be on their way out. At 80k the rear bearings are suspect.
Dave
Since you have the u-joints already why not just replace them? At 80k they could be on their way out. At 80k the rear bearings are suspect.
Dave
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From: Clarkston Mi
Sorry, should have clarified "play"
There is not much "lash" in the system when raising the rear and rolling the wheels clockwise/counter cw. When putting my hands at 12 and 6, there is no play - the LH rear bearing was replaced 8000 miles ago. I have not replaced the RH rear bearing - but is also has no play from a bearing perspective.
Why not replace the U-joints: I do not have access to a press to do so, and would like to do (or - atleast heavily assist) this job on my own.
anyone have a hoist/press they'd be willing to let me use for an afternoon (perhaps a sunday). Replacing the U-joints is a start, here...
There is not much "lash" in the system when raising the rear and rolling the wheels clockwise/counter cw. When putting my hands at 12 and 6, there is no play - the LH rear bearing was replaced 8000 miles ago. I have not replaced the RH rear bearing - but is also has no play from a bearing perspective.
Why not replace the U-joints: I do not have access to a press to do so, and would like to do (or - atleast heavily assist) this job on my own.
anyone have a hoist/press they'd be willing to let me use for an afternoon (perhaps a sunday). Replacing the U-joints is a start, here...
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 2
From: Richfield Utah
My 88 has 60,000 on it, and I can hear it clinking & clanking away. Especially on the pass side. It has a ton of play, when turning it first clock wise, then counter clock wise repeatedly. Hold your breath boys, I'm goin in today... 
Edit: For Robey 5...... http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html
Edit: For Robey 5...... http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html
Last edited by Steel Breeze; Aug 22, 2006 at 01:23 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 192
Likes: 1
From: Western Washington State
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Originally Posted by Robey5
Why not replace the U-joints: I do not have access to a press to do so, and would like to do (or - atleast heavily assist) this job on my own.
anyone have a hoist/press they'd be willing to let me use for an afternoon (perhaps a sunday). Replacing the U-joints is a start, here...
anyone have a hoist/press they'd be willing to let me use for an afternoon (perhaps a sunday). Replacing the U-joints is a start, here...
The shop near me only charged $6 each to replace the u-joints. Since they were the local Spicer dealer I would have had to go there anyway, so it hardly made sense to mess with pressing them out/in myself. Total cost was $180 for all 6 Spicer u-joints plus my time to R&R the drive/half-shafts.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Clarkston Mi
Thank you for the tutorial.
I will take a look at doing the job over the next week, here.
Any other things I should take a look at while in there? I don't feel any play in the wheels when they're in the air.
Is there any other clicking/clunking noises that may come from the rear!?
I will take a look at doing the job over the next week, here.
Any other things I should take a look at while in there? I don't feel any play in the wheels when they're in the air.
Is there any other clicking/clunking noises that may come from the rear!?
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,110
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From: Red Sox Nation! RI
Scorps page is a must read. And here's some info I posted the other day.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1479558
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1479558
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Clarkston Mi
OK. I've got the LH halfshaft out. I am debating to either bring it to a shop so that I can have someone else press 'em in, or have a bud help me use the large vice to put them in.
Either way; question: I have Federal Mogul/TRW part numbers 20054-331 - with a grease fitting.
I have 4 of them, all the same, but I have not seen this part referenced in the above posts. Should I go guy the spicer brand U-joints instead? These OK? Any experience with these? I bought them in 2002, but I am just now getting to installing.
Your opinions are appreciated!
Either way; question: I have Federal Mogul/TRW part numbers 20054-331 - with a grease fitting.
I have 4 of them, all the same, but I have not seen this part referenced in the above posts. Should I go guy the spicer brand U-joints instead? These OK? Any experience with these? I bought them in 2002, but I am just now getting to installing.
Your opinions are appreciated!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 6
From: Red Sox Nation! RI
I guess whether you use the TRW u-joints or not is your call. But at the very least, pull the bearing caps off one at a time and look inside. Check the caps, bearings and trunions for any oxidation or rust. If you see any, toss them out. I'm not sure what kind of luck you'll have finding Spicers locally. I had to order mine.
If you have a large enough vise, you really shouldn't have a problem pressing the old u-joints out and the new ones back in. Use a breaker bar/jack handle on the vise if needed. Just follow the instructions on Scorp's page or the service manual on how to use 2 different sized sockets in the press process.
If you have a large enough vise, you really shouldn't have a problem pressing the old u-joints out and the new ones back in. Use a breaker bar/jack handle on the vise if needed. Just follow the instructions on Scorp's page or the service manual on how to use 2 different sized sockets in the press process.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Clarkston Mi
Got both halfshafts out, now I am going to get to a vice that is large enought (I only have a cheap-o small one) and I am going to likely reinstall tomorrow evening.
Cleaned them up as much as I could, all looks OK. The RH ones were VERY hard to move. Perhaps that was one of the noises happening.
Updates as they come!
Cleaned them up as much as I could, all looks OK. The RH ones were VERY hard to move. Perhaps that was one of the noises happening.
Updates as they come!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Clarkston Mi
Alright, well - the new U-Joints are installed.
Took the car out for a spin last night, the squeeking is gone (hopefully) and the loud noises are gone.
Since I've owned the car, it has made a bit of a click in the rear when the clutch is let out (system in load).
All 6 U-joints are new now. I still have a very faint click when letting the clutch out. Coming from the rear.
I guess it stays!
Took the car out for a spin last night, the squeeking is gone (hopefully) and the loud noises are gone.
Since I've owned the car, it has made a bit of a click in the rear when the clutch is let out (system in load).
All 6 U-joints are new now. I still have a very faint click when letting the clutch out. Coming from the rear.
I guess it stays!
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 124
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From: Arlington Texas
How hard is it to change U-joints with a vice? I always took my shafts to my father, he had a machine shop and would use his arbor press. Recently I watched my 70 year old neighbor remove some u-joints using a hammer. I honestly did not think it was possible, but he made it look rather easy. He is one of them old-school big block hotrod nuts, always coming over to my garage asking what I am working now, lol
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Clarkston Mi
Doing this job with a vice is not very hard, as long as you have one that will open large enough. Per Scorp's post you are looking at one with 7 inches (give or take) to complete this task. I have a cheap one that opens 5 inches - so I did this with a vice in our shop here. It is not TOO hard, but you must go slowly, and be patient.
I also would not reccomend beating the pulp out of them with a hammer, may cause damage to the alum.
An arbor press would be a little faster if you have a fixture.
I also would not reccomend beating the pulp out of them with a hammer, may cause damage to the alum.
An arbor press would be a little faster if you have a fixture.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Trumbull CT
I had similar loud clicking/pop from both rear sides, had the 4 half shaft U joints replaced, and it is better. Still get minor clicking, especially backing up. Local vette mechanic says the hub needs to be removed, to clean & lube the spindles. Common problem, and not a saftey issue. My calipers rattle since the anti-rattle clips have worn out before the pads. Apparently it's hard to keep these cars solid feeling! 
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Minneapolis Minnesota
Originally Posted by Steel Breeze
My 88 has 60,000 on it, and I can hear it clinking & clanking away. Especially on the pass side. It has a ton of play, when turning it first clock wise, then counter clock wise repeatedly. Hold your breath boys, I'm goin in today...
Edit: For Robey 5...... http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html
Edit: For Robey 5...... http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html