82corvetteC/E
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 373
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From: Chipley Florida
82corvetteC/E
Hey guys I need some of that good adivce you guy's give on here all the time........I have a 1982 C/E. when I bought the car the A/C did not work. So a trouble shooting I go. First I find out that he told me that the system was converted to R134........that turned out to be BS.
Well anyway I replaced the whole A/C system in the car, new compressor, new lines , new blower motor switch, new relay fan switch, new reciever dryer.etc...... the whole system is converted the correct way to a R-134 system.
Now here is my problem its not as cold as I like it. I have had it back to the shop 2 times......both times pumping it down and and re -servicing by a repair shop. But It just is not cold enough for me.......I put a stick in the vent and its only getting about 40 degrees out the vent
My 1988 is running R-12 and I can freeze my butt off in the car with the tempture set at 70 degrees and outside tempture 105 degrees..........
Well anyway I replaced the whole A/C system in the car, new compressor, new lines , new blower motor switch, new relay fan switch, new reciever dryer.etc...... the whole system is converted the correct way to a R-134 system.
Now here is my problem its not as cold as I like it. I have had it back to the shop 2 times......both times pumping it down and and re -servicing by a repair shop. But It just is not cold enough for me.......I put a stick in the vent and its only getting about 40 degrees out the vent
My 1988 is running R-12 and I can freeze my butt off in the car with the tempture set at 70 degrees and outside tempture 105 degrees..........
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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My C4 did the same thing. I converted it back to R-12 because the R134a didn't get as cold as I wanted to.
Are you sure the system didn't get cross contaminated with both refrigerants? R-12 and R-134a are not compatible in any way, shape or form and if even trace amounts remain the system it can affect the effectiveness of your A/C.
Most shops will only hold vacuum 30 minutes, but it needs to be held for one hour to ensure all moisture and refrigerant are purged before recharging.
Federal law prohibits the topping off of any A/C system (R-12 or R-134a) with any other refrigerant. You must use the same type of refrigerant if the system is low on charge unless the system is being converted to a different refrigerant (in which case all the old refrigerant must be recovered prior to making the change).
R-12 and R-134a are not compatible refrigerants because R-134a will not mix with and circulate mineral-based compressor oil (which may lead to compressor failure). Nor is R-134a compatible with the moisture-absorbing desiccant XH-5, which is used in many R-12 systems.
Intermixing refrigerants can also cause cooling problems and raise compressor head pressures dangerously. Adding R-22 (which is used in many stationary A/C systems but is not designed for use in mobile A/C applications) to an R-12 or R-134a system may raise head pressures to the point where it causes the compressor to fail.
Straight R-22 can cause extremely high discharge pressure readings (up to 400 or 500 psi!) when underhood temperatures are high. R-22 is also not compatible with XH-5 and XH-7 desiccants used in most mobile A/C systems (XH-9 is recommended).
R-134a also requires its own special type of oil: either a polyakylene (PAG) oil or a polyol ester (POE) oil. The OEMS mostly specify a variety of different PAG oils because some compressors require a heavier or lighter viscosity oil for proper lubrication (though General Motors does specify only a single grade of PAG oil for most service applications).
The aftermarket generally favors POE oil because POE is compatible with both R-12 and R-134a and unlike PAG oil it will mix with mineral oil. Mineral oil, as a rule, should still be used in older R-12 systems.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/us397.htm
Are you sure the system didn't get cross contaminated with both refrigerants? R-12 and R-134a are not compatible in any way, shape or form and if even trace amounts remain the system it can affect the effectiveness of your A/C.
Most shops will only hold vacuum 30 minutes, but it needs to be held for one hour to ensure all moisture and refrigerant are purged before recharging.
Federal law prohibits the topping off of any A/C system (R-12 or R-134a) with any other refrigerant. You must use the same type of refrigerant if the system is low on charge unless the system is being converted to a different refrigerant (in which case all the old refrigerant must be recovered prior to making the change).
R-12 and R-134a are not compatible refrigerants because R-134a will not mix with and circulate mineral-based compressor oil (which may lead to compressor failure). Nor is R-134a compatible with the moisture-absorbing desiccant XH-5, which is used in many R-12 systems.
Intermixing refrigerants can also cause cooling problems and raise compressor head pressures dangerously. Adding R-22 (which is used in many stationary A/C systems but is not designed for use in mobile A/C applications) to an R-12 or R-134a system may raise head pressures to the point where it causes the compressor to fail.
Straight R-22 can cause extremely high discharge pressure readings (up to 400 or 500 psi!) when underhood temperatures are high. R-22 is also not compatible with XH-5 and XH-7 desiccants used in most mobile A/C systems (XH-9 is recommended).
R-134a also requires its own special type of oil: either a polyakylene (PAG) oil or a polyol ester (POE) oil. The OEMS mostly specify a variety of different PAG oils because some compressors require a heavier or lighter viscosity oil for proper lubrication (though General Motors does specify only a single grade of PAG oil for most service applications).
The aftermarket generally favors POE oil because POE is compatible with both R-12 and R-134a and unlike PAG oil it will mix with mineral oil. Mineral oil, as a rule, should still be used in older R-12 systems.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/us397.htm
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 373
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From: Chipley Florida
82collector
Originally Posted by onedef92
My C4 did the same thing. I converted it back to R-12 because the R134a didn't get as cold as I wanted to.
Are you sure the system didn't get cross contaminated with both refrigerants? R-12 and R-134a are not compatible in any way, shape or form and if even trace amounts remain the system it can affect the effectiveness of your A/C.
Most shops will only hold vacuum 30 minutes, but it needs to be held for one hour to ensure all moisture and refrigerant are purged before recharging.
Federal law prohibits the topping off of any A/C system (R-12 or R-134a) with any other refrigerant. You must use the same type of refrigerant if the system is low on charge unless the system is being converted to a different refrigerant (in which case all the old refrigerant must be recovered prior to making the change).
R-12 and R-134a are not compatible refrigerants because R-134a will not mix with and circulate mineral-based compressor oil (which may lead to compressor failure). Nor is R-134a compatible with the moisture-absorbing desiccant XH-5, which is used in many R-12 systems.
Intermixing refrigerants can also cause cooling problems and raise compressor head pressures dangerously. Adding R-22 (which is used in many stationary A/C systems but is not designed for use in mobile A/C applications) to an R-12 or R-134a system may raise head pressures to the point where it causes the compressor to fail.
Straight R-22 can cause extremely high discharge pressure readings (up to 400 or 500 psi!) when underhood temperatures are high. R-22 is also not compatible with XH-5 and XH-7 desiccants used in most mobile A/C systems (XH-9 is recommended).
R-134a also requires its own special type of oil: either a polyakylene (PAG) oil or a polyol ester (POE) oil. The OEMS mostly specify a variety of different PAG oils because some compressors require a heavier or lighter viscosity oil for proper lubrication (though General Motors does specify only a single grade of PAG oil for most service applications).
The aftermarket generally favors POE oil because POE is compatible with both R-12 and R-134a and unlike PAG oil it will mix with mineral oil. Mineral oil, as a rule, should still be used in older R-12 systems.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/us397.htm
Are you sure the system didn't get cross contaminated with both refrigerants? R-12 and R-134a are not compatible in any way, shape or form and if even trace amounts remain the system it can affect the effectiveness of your A/C.
Most shops will only hold vacuum 30 minutes, but it needs to be held for one hour to ensure all moisture and refrigerant are purged before recharging.
Federal law prohibits the topping off of any A/C system (R-12 or R-134a) with any other refrigerant. You must use the same type of refrigerant if the system is low on charge unless the system is being converted to a different refrigerant (in which case all the old refrigerant must be recovered prior to making the change).
R-12 and R-134a are not compatible refrigerants because R-134a will not mix with and circulate mineral-based compressor oil (which may lead to compressor failure). Nor is R-134a compatible with the moisture-absorbing desiccant XH-5, which is used in many R-12 systems.
Intermixing refrigerants can also cause cooling problems and raise compressor head pressures dangerously. Adding R-22 (which is used in many stationary A/C systems but is not designed for use in mobile A/C applications) to an R-12 or R-134a system may raise head pressures to the point where it causes the compressor to fail.
Straight R-22 can cause extremely high discharge pressure readings (up to 400 or 500 psi!) when underhood temperatures are high. R-22 is also not compatible with XH-5 and XH-7 desiccants used in most mobile A/C systems (XH-9 is recommended).
R-134a also requires its own special type of oil: either a polyakylene (PAG) oil or a polyol ester (POE) oil. The OEMS mostly specify a variety of different PAG oils because some compressors require a heavier or lighter viscosity oil for proper lubrication (though General Motors does specify only a single grade of PAG oil for most service applications).
The aftermarket generally favors POE oil because POE is compatible with both R-12 and R-134a and unlike PAG oil it will mix with mineral oil. Mineral oil, as a rule, should still be used in older R-12 systems.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/us397.htm
So with that said lets approach the vacuum 30 minutes, it was vacumn for 1 hour I stood there and watched the whole process. So I feel pretty confident that it was done right........its just not cold thats my problem. Some added info for you the reason why I replaced the whole system is we found metal in the oil, with that siad i told them rip it all out and replace the whole system.I made sure we did that, so I fell confident we have no R-12 in there.......
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 96,443
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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Originally Posted by warrior2291
THANK YOU FOR THE COME BACK SO QUICKLY. FIRST LET ME SAY AGAIN THAT THE WHOLE SYSTEM WAS REPLACED. EVERYTHING FROM THE COMPRESSOR, LINES SWITCHES DRYER ALL OF IT.EVEN THE SWITCH THAT TURNS THE BLOWER ON IN THE CAR WAS REPLACED.
So with that said lets approach the vacuum 30 minutes, it was vacumn for 1 hour I stood there and watched the whole process. So I feel pretty confident that it was done right........its just not cold thats my problem. Some added info for you the reason why I replaced the whole system is we found metal in the oil, with that siad i told them rip it all out and replace the whole system.I made sure we did that, so I fell confident we have no R-12 in there.......
So with that said lets approach the vacuum 30 minutes, it was vacumn for 1 hour I stood there and watched the whole process. So I feel pretty confident that it was done right........its just not cold thats my problem. Some added info for you the reason why I replaced the whole system is we found metal in the oil, with that siad i told them rip it all out and replace the whole system.I made sure we did that, so I fell confident we have no R-12 in there.......
In my case, I just went back to the R-12 once I realized you could still get it. It cost me a little more, but at least I have cold air like before.
The next time you open the system, check the orifice tube, too. If it's clogged with black, sludge-like material, that can affect the amount of refrigerant that passes through the system.
Unfortunately, it could also be a sign of your compressor coming apart due to refrigerant cross-contamination.
If an O.E.M. R12 system is not converted properly to run R134a, it will operate under higher pressure and stress the compressor shaft seal and other vital components.
Last edited by onedef92; Aug 18, 2006 at 10:36 AM.
