Checking pushrod length you thoughts inside
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 416
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From: Gansevoort NY
Checking pushrod length you thoughts inside
I have read a few posts lately on checking for PR length. I colored the top of the valve stem with the sharpie and turned it over after I found zero lash plus 1/2 turn. Give me your input on the results. Too long or close to just right?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 416
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From: Gansevoort NY
Originally Posted by Pete K
If you do not have a checker spring installed, the results will be inaccurate.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 427
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From: Stillwater OK, Fun City USA
Originally Posted by Pete K
If you do not have a checker spring installed, the results will be inaccurate.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,356
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From: Chesapeake Va
Originally Posted by 85C4fanatic
What is the diference between the spring that is going to run in the engine and a checker spring?And how inaccurate are we talking?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
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From: Howard PA
Unless the intake is off you HAVE to use a checking spring.
Kind of hard to drop a solid lifter in with the intake on. No?
Looking at your pattern and taking into consideration the lifter collapse, maybe a shorter rod wouldn't hurt. You need the checking spring and adjustable pushrod though to make sure all will be well with a shorter rod. I don't know if you can fit an adjustable through the heads or guides though. Might be tricky.
Kind of hard to drop a solid lifter in with the intake on. No?
Looking at your pattern and taking into consideration the lifter collapse, maybe a shorter rod wouldn't hurt. You need the checking spring and adjustable pushrod though to make sure all will be well with a shorter rod. I don't know if you can fit an adjustable through the heads or guides though. Might be tricky.
Last edited by ALLT4; Aug 18, 2006 at 02:55 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,356
Likes: 1
From: Chesapeake Va
Originally Posted by ALLT4
Kind of hard to drop a solid lifter in with the intake on. No?
Also the most accurate way, instead of marking with a sharpie, use a dial indicator straight up and down on the valve keeper to indicate the valve lift. As the rocker opens the valve the roller will roll across the valve stem. Pusrod length is right when the roller is dead center on the valve stem at 50% valve lift. Good luck!!
Last edited by edcmat-l1; Aug 18, 2006 at 06:57 PM.
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You can buy 'checker' springs, probably from most any cam and valve gear manufacturer. I made my own from some tempered steel wire. They have just a few lbs. of resistance and do not collapse a stock hydraulic lifter. I've used them multiple times for this and also for checking piston to valve clearance. They work well. I simply hand wound them to an appropriate height and diameter for my purposes.
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Sorry about not getting back to you sooner, I had a hell day today.....
I should have clarified what I said in the PM about using the sharpie on the valve stem tip. I meant to use it as another tool in your arsenal to figure out the issue with push rods and they do indeed look a little too long from the pattern indicated on the tip.
What you may be able to do is take one of my original springs apart and use one coil and one of the pushrod tools from Crane or TFS. The problem as already mentioned with doing this is collapsing the lifter and your reading will be way off, hence the recommendation of a solid lifter, or a shim. Which, BTW, I have never heard of using.
If the shim is what I think it is it sounds like some type slug that fits over the barrell of the lifter without contacting the plunger, maybe with a slight cup to support the rod.
I should have clarified what I said in the PM about using the sharpie on the valve stem tip. I meant to use it as another tool in your arsenal to figure out the issue with push rods and they do indeed look a little too long from the pattern indicated on the tip.
What you may be able to do is take one of my original springs apart and use one coil and one of the pushrod tools from Crane or TFS. The problem as already mentioned with doing this is collapsing the lifter and your reading will be way off, hence the recommendation of a solid lifter, or a shim. Which, BTW, I have never heard of using.
If the shim is what I think it is it sounds like some type slug that fits over the barrell of the lifter without contacting the plunger, maybe with a slight cup to support the rod.