Here's a tip- U-joint straps
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Here's a tip- U-joint straps
Recently, the infamous 'clunk' had returned for the umteenth time. 
I've replaced the U-joints w/ Spicers in the last couple of years, all poly bushings in the rear, C-beam tight, etc., etc...... Checked the straps and one of them on the drive shaft appeared to have been allowing a cap to turn. Tightened it up but it just didn't 'feel' right. Still had the clunk. Picked up a new set of straps and bolts at NAPA and installed a couple of days later. It seems to have cured the noise again for now. The halfshaft straps seemed to be holding well so I didn't fool with them for now. I'll replace them though, just as a matter of course the next time I have them unbolted for any reason. I believe I'd recommend just going ahead and changing them when you replace your joints. Only a few more bucks and one less thing to worry about. BTW, the strap and bolt kit I got from NAPA was made by Spicer.
I've replaced the U-joints w/ Spicers in the last couple of years, all poly bushings in the rear, C-beam tight, etc., etc...... Checked the straps and one of them on the drive shaft appeared to have been allowing a cap to turn. Tightened it up but it just didn't 'feel' right. Still had the clunk. Picked up a new set of straps and bolts at NAPA and installed a couple of days later. It seems to have cured the noise again for now. The halfshaft straps seemed to be holding well so I didn't fool with them for now. I'll replace them though, just as a matter of course the next time I have them unbolted for any reason. I believe I'd recommend just going ahead and changing them when you replace your joints. Only a few more bucks and one less thing to worry about. BTW, the strap and bolt kit I got from NAPA was made by Spicer.
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From: The Top of Utah
I have to respectfully disagree. The only job of the strap is to retain the cap of the u joint fully into the yoke so the rotating force of the yoke will be transmitted efficiently to the joint. If you have to increase the pressure between the cap and the yoke to keep the cap from turning in the yoke, then you have WAAAY too much friction between the u joint spider, via the needle bearings and the cap. In other words, the cap should rotate, MUCH more easily on it's bearings, than it does in the cap, regardless of the straps. If the bearings are bad enough to twist the cap in the yoke, the straps are the least of your problems. I hope this helps.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
I have to respectfully disagree. The only job of the strap is to retain the cap of the u joint fully into the yoke so the rotating force of the yoke will be transmitted efficiently to the joint. If you have to increase the pressure between the cap and the yoke to keep the cap from turning in the yoke, then you have WAAAY too much friction between the u joint spider, via the needle bearings and the cap. In other words, the cap should rotate, MUCH more easily on it's bearings, than it does in the cap, regardless of the straps. If the bearings are bad enough to twist the cap in the yoke, the straps are the least of your problems. I hope this helps.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
I agree that the OD of the cap has to remain in contact with the ID (curvature of the yoke). That is what I was referring to when I mentioned the transference of the driving forces, but there is no great force required to keep the cap, firmly in place in the yoke. That is why they use tin straps and 5/16" bolts. In your case where you saw the air gap, I have to wonder why the straps bent or stretched. I wouldn't be surprised, if upon closer inspection, you didn't find damage to the half round bore of the yoke, that allowed, even facilitated, the cap to move (laterally, not rotate) in the bore, bending or stretching the straps. If the yoke is damaged, it is probably because, in the past, a cap from a near failed u joint was allow to turn in the yoke.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Thread Starter
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
I agree that the OD of the cap has to remain in contact with the ID (curvature of the yoke). That is what I was referring to when I mentioned the transference of the driving forces, but there is no great force required to keep the cap, firmly in place in the yoke. That is why they use tin straps and 5/16" bolts. In your case where you saw the air gap, I have to wonder why the straps bent or stretched. I wouldn't be surprised, if upon closer inspection, you didn't find damage to the half round bore of the yoke, that allowed, even facilitated, the cap to move (laterally, not rotate) in the bore, bending or stretching the straps. If the yoke is damaged, it is probably because, in the past, a cap from a near failed u joint was allow to turn in the yoke.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Originally Posted by Corvette for life
hope it gets fixed for good this time
