GAS Tank question.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,204
Likes: 6
From: St Marys PA
Originally Posted by Gold1986Vette420
does the gas tank have to come out of the car to tap in a bottom sump fitting?
Whats the best way to install a fitting to insure it wont leak?
Whats the best way to install a fitting to insure it wont leak?
Nothing like strapping 150lbs on the car!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: Marlboro NY
I talked to a local guy that does radiators (repairs and custom built ones too.) He Said to bring him the tank out of the car. I am opposed to this due to the fact that I am pretty sure the bumper has to come off for the tank to come out of the car. If anyone has changed one without removing the bumper please correct me. It just seems to be more trouble than its worth to me at this time.
I even let him know that I could empty the tank and get every last drop out of the tank and his answer was - "are you going to pay my hospital bills if it blows up in my face?"
I heard from another guy that you have to use exhaust fumes in the tank to prevent an explosion when welding it.
Whats wrong with epoxy? Will it work? Why does it need to be welded?
What does a new tank cost?
any answers please let me know.
TIA
Larry
I even let him know that I could empty the tank and get every last drop out of the tank and his answer was - "are you going to pay my hospital bills if it blows up in my face?"
I heard from another guy that you have to use exhaust fumes in the tank to prevent an explosion when welding it.
Whats wrong with epoxy? Will it work? Why does it need to be welded?
What does a new tank cost?
any answers please let me know.
TIA
Larry
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 4,532
Likes: 7
From: Lahaina Hi
Don't even think of doing anything to the tank.
Inside the tank it is plastic.
The only way you can even connect anything to the tank is at the filler neck.
In the bottom of the tank where the pump goes is a baffel made of plastic,you shoulden't have a full tank to launch.
The car has to come apart to remove the tank.
You also have a fitting on the left side of the tank that vents the bladder,don't play with that eather.
Just remove the 10mm bolts and remove the fill neck and turn on your flash light.
YOu don't weld these tanks ,if you want to weld just fill it full of water.NBD.
Inside the tank it is plastic.
The only way you can even connect anything to the tank is at the filler neck.
In the bottom of the tank where the pump goes is a baffel made of plastic,you shoulden't have a full tank to launch.
The car has to come apart to remove the tank.
You also have a fitting on the left side of the tank that vents the bladder,don't play with that eather.
Just remove the 10mm bolts and remove the fill neck and turn on your flash light.
YOu don't weld these tanks ,if you want to weld just fill it full of water.NBD.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: Marlboro NY
I dont know about you but any less than a half tank and I am sucking air as well. The tank seem to be all metal with the exception of the center baffle which seems to do next to nothing especially on hard launches and hard cornering.
Last time out the car had one bar more than 1/4 tank and bucked 5 times before I got out of 1st gear. (It had 2.59 gears at the time). My friends didn't believe me untill I played the playback tach for them.
Anyway I need a good size line connected (-8) to feed the A1000 fuel pump I want to get.
I eventually will need a lot more fuel than what the jumbo bosch in-tank pump supplies. I plan on running a shot of N2O.
Last time out the car had one bar more than 1/4 tank and bucked 5 times before I got out of 1st gear. (It had 2.59 gears at the time). My friends didn't believe me untill I played the playback tach for them.
Anyway I need a good size line connected (-8) to feed the A1000 fuel pump I want to get.
I eventually will need a lot more fuel than what the jumbo bosch in-tank pump supplies. I plan on running a shot of N2O.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 4,532
Likes: 7
From: Lahaina Hi
You should be able to run the car with one line below a 1/2 tank mark.
I run mine their and It is usually ok.
I have a 5/8 return line that I cut into the top line that is used for the evap loss return.
I also cut in another line for the nitrous pump.
Sodered it in and made sure it picked up at the inline pump.
I run the Warlboro in tank pump and have no problems so far.
I have the external from Aeromotive.
I use the Aeromotive regulators to lower the high presure to 7 lbs for the engine both pumps and I use another Aeromotive regulator for the nitrous after the Aeromotive to operate the nitrous from 4 lbs to 6 lbs
as needed.
I tried to use the original return line from the factory but not enough fuel would return and I couldn't keep the regulator presure set, it would climb and lower when I reved up the engine.
It was hard to keep the floats set also.
Take a look in the tank it has two pockets on the right and left side where the fuel drops off.Our tanks also only hold 18 gallons and not 20
like the other corvetts.
I run mine their and It is usually ok.
I have a 5/8 return line that I cut into the top line that is used for the evap loss return.
I also cut in another line for the nitrous pump.
Sodered it in and made sure it picked up at the inline pump.
I run the Warlboro in tank pump and have no problems so far.
I have the external from Aeromotive.
I use the Aeromotive regulators to lower the high presure to 7 lbs for the engine both pumps and I use another Aeromotive regulator for the nitrous after the Aeromotive to operate the nitrous from 4 lbs to 6 lbs
as needed.
I tried to use the original return line from the factory but not enough fuel would return and I couldn't keep the regulator presure set, it would climb and lower when I reved up the engine.
It was hard to keep the floats set also.
Take a look in the tank it has two pockets on the right and left side where the fuel drops off.Our tanks also only hold 18 gallons and not 20
like the other corvetts.
