C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Rear main seal (93 LT1) replace while doing clutch?

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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 04:02 PM
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Default Rear main seal (93 LT1) replace while doing clutch?

Im gathering the parts to do my clutch change. Last time I replaced the clutch (in 2002, a mere 25k ago) I replaced the rear main seal as well.

I took off the flywheel (aluminum flywheel with steel friction plate) and noted that there are a few drops of oil off the rear main seal. These may not necessarily be due to a faulty seal, but may be due to the fact the engine is tilted back slightly and all the oil is now up against the rear main seal.

There was also a tiny amount of oil on the front bellhousing cover (that sheet metal that bolts to the bottom half of the bellhousing).

Since my timing cover leaks a tiny amount of oil, its possible it could have blown back while driving onto the bellhousing. The underside of the oil pan has a slight misting of oil on it.

Keep in mind, my car doesnt leak any drops of oil on the ground. Its just that a light misting of oil develops around the timing cover.

Do you guys usually replace the rear main seal when doing a clutch change?

Any advice is appreciated.
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 04:10 PM
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Couldn't hurt, I did. I think the GM seal was $20.
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 04:51 PM
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No, VERIFY where it is coming from and then fix. Do not through your money away, unless you are Bill Gates. A rear seal should last along time, when I thought mine was bad, turned out to be a leaking valve cover gasket.
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 02:51 PM
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Ugh. 25k miles on one clutch? Wow.

I may be changing my centerforce pressure plate and friction disk back to my original, becuse I am not crazy about the sounds and noises my centerforce makes.

Anyhow, I would not replace the rear main, unless you are SURE that you have a leak there. Could do more harm than good. Just my .02
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 06:42 PM
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The 1 piece seal is a PITA to replace but if it needs it it doesn't inprove with time
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by BADDUCK
Couldn't hurt, I did. I think the GM seal was $20.
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:31 PM
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Default Replacing 1-pc Rear Seal

Originally Posted by hip
The 1 piece seal is a PITA to replace but if it needs it it doesn't inprove with time
It is not hard at all. What I have found that works very well is put two 3" drywall screws into the seal's outer edge, opposite of each other.(just deep enough to get a good bite) Then take a claw hammer and pry the seal out. This might seem crude, but it works. When installing the new seal, use the plastic guide that is provided.

MY 2 cents,
JTHVETTE
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JTHVETTE
It is not hard at all. What I have found that works very well is put two 3" drywall screws into the seal's outer edge, opposite of each other.(just deep enough to get a good bite) Then take a claw hammer and pry the seal out. This might seem crude, but it works. When installing the new seal, use the plastic guide that is provided.

MY 2 cents,
JTHVETTE
Bought a higher end FelPro seal from Summit that came with a plastic guide.

Make sure to clean the mating surface on the engine well. Mine had some gunk on it and I think that is why it was leaking a little. I cleaned it off with some brake cleaner (or choose your favorite solvent) so it was spotless before the seal went on. Not a drop since.
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