When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Rear main seal (93 LT1) replace while doing clutch?
Im gathering the parts to do my clutch change. Last time I replaced the clutch (in 2002, a mere 25k ago) I replaced the rear main seal as well.
I took off the flywheel (aluminum flywheel with steel friction plate) and noted that there are a few drops of oil off the rear main seal. These may not necessarily be due to a faulty seal, but may be due to the fact the engine is tilted back slightly and all the oil is now up against the rear main seal.
There was also a tiny amount of oil on the front bellhousing cover (that sheet metal that bolts to the bottom half of the bellhousing).
Since my timing cover leaks a tiny amount of oil, its possible it could have blown back while driving onto the bellhousing. The underside of the oil pan has a slight misting of oil on it.
Keep in mind, my car doesnt leak any drops of oil on the ground. Its just that a light misting of oil develops around the timing cover.
Do you guys usually replace the rear main seal when doing a clutch change?
No, VERIFY where it is coming from and then fix. Do not through your money away, unless you are Bill Gates. A rear seal should last along time, when I thought mine was bad, turned out to be a leaking valve cover gasket.
I may be changing my centerforce pressure plate and friction disk back to my original, becuse I am not crazy about the sounds and noises my centerforce makes.
Anyhow, I would not replace the rear main, unless you are SURE that you have a leak there. Could do more harm than good. Just my .02
The 1 piece seal is a PITA to replace but if it needs it it doesn't inprove with time
It is not hard at all. What I have found that works very well is put two 3" drywall screws into the seal's outer edge, opposite of each other.(just deep enough to get a good bite) Then take a claw hammer and pry the seal out. This might seem crude, but it works. When installing the new seal, use the plastic guide that is provided.
It is not hard at all. What I have found that works very well is put two 3" drywall screws into the seal's outer edge, opposite of each other.(just deep enough to get a good bite) Then take a claw hammer and pry the seal out. This might seem crude, but it works. When installing the new seal, use the plastic guide that is provided.
MY 2 cents,
JTHVETTE
Bought a higher end FelPro seal from Summit that came with a plastic guide.
Make sure to clean the mating surface on the engine well. Mine had some gunk on it and I think that is why it was leaking a little. I cleaned it off with some brake cleaner (or choose your favorite solvent) so it was spotless before the seal went on. Not a drop since.