Valves and Timing
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
Originally Posted by 4Ever21
Well its really not good on the engine. I'd say if anything it might kill the starter or the battery.
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Team Owner
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From: sw Ohio
Originally Posted by RRT vette
The length the engine was cranking lasted about 4 seconds until it ran on it's own, and stayed running until timing was set.
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From: sw Ohio
Originally Posted by SloRvette
You can stick the distributor in with the rotor pointing at # 1 on the cap and have the timing up to 90 degrees off.
Look into the base of the distributor with the cap off. There's an 8 pointed star on the distributor shaft that's sitting inside a ring with 8 tit's pointing in. The star is the reluctor, the ring is the pickup. When those eight points line up it creates an inductive voltage that triggers the HEI module to send a signal the ECM which then calculates dwell and timing and then signals the module to fire the coil.
If you find TDC on the number 1 cylinder like was explained above and from there roll the engine back so that the timing pointer, points at 6 degrees BTDC. Then drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing to where the #1 plug wire should be. Then rotate the distributor so the points on the reluctor and the points on the pickup line up. If the rotor no longer points at the # 1 plug terminal on the cap you need to lift the distributor out and move it a tooth in the direction in needs to go. Repeat lining up the teeth. Snug the distributor there.
That should have the timing close enough to start on the first try without F'n around with somebody rotating the distributor with somebody else cranking.
Look into the base of the distributor with the cap off. There's an 8 pointed star on the distributor shaft that's sitting inside a ring with 8 tit's pointing in. The star is the reluctor, the ring is the pickup. When those eight points line up it creates an inductive voltage that triggers the HEI module to send a signal the ECM which then calculates dwell and timing and then signals the module to fire the coil.
If you find TDC on the number 1 cylinder like was explained above and from there roll the engine back so that the timing pointer, points at 6 degrees BTDC. Then drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing to where the #1 plug wire should be. Then rotate the distributor so the points on the reluctor and the points on the pickup line up. If the rotor no longer points at the # 1 plug terminal on the cap you need to lift the distributor out and move it a tooth in the direction in needs to go. Repeat lining up the teeth. Snug the distributor there.
That should have the timing close enough to start on the first try without F'n around with somebody rotating the distributor with somebody else cranking.
I know the points under the rotor that your talking about. I kept rotating the whole distributor shaft until it eventually came as close to point to the #1 cylinder as possible.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
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From: O'Fallon Missouri
Originally Posted by 4Ever21
I tried that, no luck still. Should I even bother trying to flip the distributor around, maybe I had #6 clyinder at TDC by mistake?
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
From: Gansevoort NY
Dont give up . As all vette owners want thier car back on the road ASAP. But do it right. As others have said take #1 plug out and bump it over until you see the exhaust valve closing on #1 then if you are working by yourself grab a 1/2 drive and a 5/8 socket and find a small diameter dowl. If you are close to TDC on #1 then put the dowl in the plug hole and lift it slightly upwards. See if you feel it hit the top of the piston. If not take your driver and slightly rotate the engine then try this again. Soon if you are on #1 then that dowl will start to touch the top of the piston. Once you have it at #1 TDC then put your distributor back in setting it up so the rotor is on or just before #1 position. Again make sure you have fuel and spark as well. Goodluck . Just a reminder that as you lower the distributor back into position it rotates forward. So you cant just drop it in on #1 or by the time you get it set in place the rotor will be past #1.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,130
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From: seattle WA
Jeremy, take a breath. I've always found it difficult to have someone hit the starter while I hold my thumb over #1...because most times it takes several tries just to get it close..and unless your arms are 10 ft. long you can't do it without a remote starter button. THIS is why I say to remove the valve cover on the drivers side, rotate the engine until BOTH intake and exhaust valves are closed on #1 and the timing marks are lined up to TDC, check to see if the rotor is pointing to #1 on the cap..if not..you know it's off, and you'll have to lift the dist. and MAY have to use a long screw driver to rotate the oil pump shaft. it may take a couple tries to get the dist. and the shaft to couple and drop in correctly, but that's all there is to it. Good luck guy.
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: sw Ohio
My mistake, I did have it at #6 TDC. Flipped the distributer 180* and it fired right up, the best yet so far actually! It idles around 500 rpms. I hooked up my timing light... but it doesnt work! I have an inductive timing light that I bought from Autozone. I followed the instructions, read the label on the car, hooked the red clamp to the positive terminal on the battery, the black clamp to the metal part above the battery (I think its the hood release), and the pickup clamp on the #1 spark plug wire. I hold down the button but it wont turn on. Any advice?
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Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: sw Ohio
Got the timing light to work, wire was clamped in the wrong place. I blame that on bad directions
Timing is now at 6* BTDC I'm guessing the valves need to be adjusted again for like the 50 millionth time cause its still idling too low.
UPDATE: I loosened the valves 1/4 turn to see if it made a difference. On startup idle was still a little low, but I let it run for a bit and took it around the block to warm up the engine, build up the oil pressure. It runs great now, except for a ticking noise, which i'm assuming means the rocker arms are a little loose. Another thing that concerns me is the oil pressure seems a little low, around 37-45 psi while driving and as low as 27-33psi at idle.
Timing is now at 6* BTDC
I'm guessing the valves need to be adjusted again for like the 50 millionth time cause its still idling too low.UPDATE: I loosened the valves 1/4 turn to see if it made a difference. On startup idle was still a little low, but I let it run for a bit and took it around the block to warm up the engine, build up the oil pressure. It runs great now, except for a ticking noise, which i'm assuming means the rocker arms are a little loose. Another thing that concerns me is the oil pressure seems a little low, around 37-45 psi while driving and as low as 27-33psi at idle.
Last edited by Demonic85; Aug 31, 2006 at 03:30 PM.
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Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: sw Ohio
Originally Posted by 85C4fanatic
Glad to hear things are turning arounds
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 416
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From: Gansevoort NY
My valve seals were leaking also recently. But I held out until I replaced the heads. If you have a little puff at startup. I dont know what plans you have for your car as far as heads and intake if any but I just got done with an AS&M LT runner, 88 extrude honed base and 113 head swap. If you ever need and info about anything like this let me know. I documented the swap with pics and detailed notes.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,130
Likes: 2
From: seattle WA
knew you'd get it .You didn't do anything most of us haven't done one time or another...including the use of your new timing light..probably did what I did first time I used that type..clamped it on the wire..right? Your fuel pressure looks good! Get yourself a short piece of garden hose...the ticking noise could be a lifter or injector, if it's an injector don't worry about it. If it's a lifter you might try 1/4 turn.
