How hard is it to replace spark plugs in a 1995 with 350
engine and approx. time required to do so. I need to replace the Plantinum plugs with a colder plug, any recomendations?
TIA
Cmanhome
Green Cove Springs, Fl.

 

Why do you need a colder plug, are you running Nitrous or a super charger?

Anyhow, First time I did my '95 it took almost 3 hours. Although its really a hour or 90 minute job if you have a knack for it. Cylinder #6 and especially cylinder #8 plugs are the most challenging to get to.

I've had good luck with AC Rapidfire #14, which is what I have now but mine is stock (Rapidfire #14 is stock heat range for 1995). I think Rapidfire #12 is one heat range colder than stock. Lot of guys run NGK's.

Forum review on Rapidfire's by Hib Halverson:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/revi...2&cat=2&page=2

 

Been a few years, but when I changed the plugs on my 95 the drivers side was fairly easy after removing the stuff in the way (mainly ASR I believe). For the passenger side it was near impossible to remove #8 plug, so I removed the rear inner fender to reach it. You might want to turn your back and reach behind you, so you have a different approach with your hands. Takes about 2+ hrs for me to change all 8 and put everything back together compared to a L98 that takes about 30-40 min.

It's all personal opinion on the plugs. I always use NGK in all my vehicles over the years with no problems. If you don't have a reason, as mentioned above, for a colder plug....go with the stock heat range.

 

I removed the plastic wheel well panels to gain better access to mine. I also removed the plastic ASR housing on the driver's side.

I really like the NGK TR-55 Double Platinum plugs. Don't forget the anti-seize compound, too.

 

Thanks for all the responces to my question and yes I am planning on using Nitrous. I had read several time not to use Plantium plugs and to use a colder type plug. I am going to use the DRY Nitrous system.
Thanks again
Cmanhome

 

On my 96' I did the left bank (driverside) one hour and the next day, I did the other side, also about an hour. Removed the inner wheel wells to get at everything. I have a ratchet with four universals/ swivels.
Its about a two hour job.

I use NGk's TR-55.

 

What kind of a HP shot are you planning to run on the dry kit? Wet kits are the ONLY way to go for V8's, otherwise its a waste of time and money to mess with a dry kit. Dry kits are for Hondas

BTW, I found my car ran like garbage w/nitrous on the platinum plugs, so I went back to regular old plugs. I think i have champion's or something in there now, and it runs much better.

 

I'd run the NGK TR-55 Double Platinums. Outstanding plug.

I also removed the ASR module cover (driver's side) and the wheel well panels to gain better access to the plugs on both sides.

Took me about two hours and the calming influence of a few beers the first time... Don't forget the anti-seize compound for those aluminum heads.

 

Here's a list of tech tips I wrote up and posted here some time ago about plugs/wires on LT1/LT4 engines. Hope it helps.

------------

Changing the plug wires on an LT1/LT4 Corvette is not a lot of fun, but it can be done. Here are a few tips:

1. Raise the front end of the vehicle to a more comfortable working height.

2. Remove the inner fenderwell center panel on the driver's side. This will allow you to both see and do the job much more easily on the driver's side. You may also find it helpful to remove the wheel.

3. Unbolt the ASR bracketry from the frame, so that you can slide the ASR unit around to get it out of your way.

4. Unbolt the power steering pump so that you can move it forward around a half inch. This will make it much easier to sneak the plug wires in/out behind the pump.

5. Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner.

6. Use dielectric grease in the boots at both ends of the wires. Be sure to "burp" the air out of the boots after you get each of them pushed firmly into place, so that the trapped air doesn't try to push the wires off later.

Some guys report that they've had decent success accessing the Opti-end of the plug wires from underneath of the car, and that this saved them the trouble of removing the belt and tensioner. I haven't tried this, so I can't comment.

Take your time, work with care, and pay attention to what you're doing. The OEM replacement plug wires from your Chevy dealer are high quality parts, and will route (and fit into the wire looms) correctly. Run the new wires properly, and make sure they stay away from anything that moves, is sharp, or gets hot.

The passenger's side is not such a bad job. The driver's side is a Queen Royal Beyotch (mostly because all of the belt-driven accessories are hanging on the driver’s side of the front of LT1/LT4 engines, and they leave little room for you to work or see what you’re doing). With plenty of patience, beer and Band-Aids, you'll get it done.

The spark plugs on the driver's side aren't so bad, when you've got things apart to do the wires. The passenger's side, however, is not so easy. The number 8 plug in particular can be a real headache, but with good tools and enough patience, you can get it done. Because there isn’t room for a ratchet on top of the spark plug socket, I use a plug socket that has a hex head on it so that it can be turned with an open end or box end wrench. It's useful to have more than one plug socket to choose from, as some will work better than others due to differences in length, wall thickness, etc.

Be sure to apply a small amount of anti-sieze compound to the threads of the new plugs before you install them so that they won’t seize in the cylinder heads in the future (this is especially important with aluminum heads). Just make sure none of the compound gets onto the electrodes or insulators of the plugs. I apply a very thin stripe of compound across the threads in one spot, and it spreads itself around the threads as I screw the plug into the hole. Also be careful that you don’t pick up any of the grunge that may have accumulated over the years around the spark plug hole in the cylinder head on the new plugs’ electrodes/insulators/threads while you’re installing them – try your best to get the tip of the plug straight into the hole on the first shot.


Be well,

SJW

 

If you use a section of rubber hose to screw the plugs in initially, it greatly minimizes the possibility of cross-threading.