Air pump removal
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 270
Likes: 8
From: Gilbert, AZ
Air pump removal
I have been looking at my new toy and have noticed the air pump isn't hooked up completely. The connectors for the exhaust manifolds are open. Air just blows right out the connectors insted of going to the headers. Only place it is connected is in the back of the intake. Since I doubt that a lot of air is actually making it into the intake, would it hurt to just remove the whole mess?
Not a big deal since I have already passed e-check and it even passed the visual
Not a big deal since I have already passed e-check and it even passed the visual
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 4,931
Likes: 3
From: Fort Lauderdale FL
Originally Posted by quadracr
It's a 95. I don't know about not passing visual if I remove it completely. It passed and there were open connections on both headers and the air line.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 707
Likes: 0
From: Syracuse Utah
The air check valves or a plug should still be in the headers, otherwise you have an exhaust leak. That's a bad thing. You should remove the air system and reprogram the computer to delete it or you will get codes. The right side air pipe is also used as the EGR pipe. That is why it hooks into the rear of the intake manifold. The EGR system also hooks into the computer and should be left operational. It actually plays an important part in controlling heat and emissions unless you have a bigger cam in which case you can block off the manifold and delete the EGR from the computer also. As a Federal emissions control, these two devices cannot be legally removed in any state even though newer cars don't even have them any more. I'm guessing you either lucked out on the visual or the tech just didn't care.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by 86PACER
What year vette?
You won't pass visual next time if you remove it all,l and then show up like that.
I removed the plumbing and kept it in a box to re-install every two years for smog.
You won't pass visual next time if you remove it all,l and then show up like that.
I removed the plumbing and kept it in a box to re-install every two years for smog.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 270
Likes: 8
From: Gilbert, AZ
Originally Posted by Hotred94
The air check valves or a plug should still be in the headers, otherwise you have an exhaust leak. That's a bad thing. You should remove the air system and reprogram the computer to delete it or you will get codes. The right side air pipe is also used as the EGR pipe. That is why it hooks into the rear of the intake manifold. The EGR system also hooks into the computer and should be left operational. It actually plays an important part in controlling heat and emissions unless you have a bigger cam in which case you can block off the manifold and delete the EGR from the computer also. As a Federal emissions control, these two devices cannot be legally removed in any state even though newer cars don't even have them any more. I'm guessing you either lucked out on the visual or the tech just didn't care.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
I found it much easier to reinstall all that stuff if you hack the tubes up into a few pieces. Then just shove them under the accessories so you can't see the cut ends, and use the little hoses to hold them in place. I can do this without even removing anything. Installing them correctly is much harder.
I hear ya. I did just that with the long one leading all the way to the cat (circled). 
The cut end is hidden behind the AC compressor and bracketry very nicely. A piece of hose on the tip eliminates rattling. Saves me from having to deal with the long pos line leading to the cat each time. The cut end is damn near impossible to see it even if you try to look for it.The rest came off afterwards.
This will come in handy with the long center piece specially. I won't have to unbolt the AC braket and remove the air pump anymore and try to fish it out from under the fuel lines. Damn good idea.
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Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: Germany
You should remove the air system and reprogram the computer to delete it or you will get codes.
Best wishes from Germany
Eike
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 10,878
Likes: 1
St. Jude Donor '07
I'm removing (& plugging) my AIR system on my '85 this week. I found that it was the source of that hissing noise @ 2500 under load. Until I can afford the pulley kit, I plan on leaving the pump where it is. There are no emissions or inspections in MN, but I'm keeping the parts anyhow.
I found this problem by elimination.
1. Remove brake booseter line and test drive. Still there. Braking sucked. Wish someone had told me first.
2. Got an unlit propane torch and searched for leaks. Found none after 10 minutes. Got high from fumes. Happy I don't smoke. Openned garage door.
3. Removed tube from AIR pump and went on a test drive. NO NOISE! Decided I don't want to mess with finding the leak, so the system is comoing out! Took a but-ton of pics first, in case I need to reinstall.
I found this problem by elimination.
1. Remove brake booseter line and test drive. Still there. Braking sucked. Wish someone had told me first.
2. Got an unlit propane torch and searched for leaks. Found none after 10 minutes. Got high from fumes. Happy I don't smoke. Openned garage door.
3. Removed tube from AIR pump and went on a test drive. NO NOISE! Decided I don't want to mess with finding the leak, so the system is comoing out! Took a but-ton of pics first, in case I need to reinstall.
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Canton GA
Sorry to bring this back up..
I just put the air pump delete kit on and am removing the rest of the junk... the diverter valve (I think) has a tube that goes down to the crank case (I think?)... do you just cap that off?
I assume also that the hose that goes from the diverter to the plenum (which has a T to the FPR) gets pulled and then a small hose is made from the plenum to the FPR, right?
On a side note, I found a perfect cap for the manifolds!! Went to HomeDepot and the 1/2" pipe cap found in the plumbing section fits absolutely PERFECT!
I just put the air pump delete kit on and am removing the rest of the junk... the diverter valve (I think) has a tube that goes down to the crank case (I think?)... do you just cap that off?
I assume also that the hose that goes from the diverter to the plenum (which has a T to the FPR) gets pulled and then a small hose is made from the plenum to the FPR, right?
On a side note, I found a perfect cap for the manifolds!! Went to HomeDepot and the 1/2" pipe cap found in the plumbing section fits absolutely PERFECT!
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 276
Likes: 1
From: Brentwood CA
Originally Posted by Thrak
On a side note, I found a perfect cap for the manifolds!! Went to HomeDepot and the 1/2" pipe cap found in the plumbing section fits absolutely PERFECT!
