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i have a question, i want to use arp main bolts when i put my l98 back together.
i was told by some one that i would have to align bore my block. i have used them before in an other engine with out align boring.
has any one not align bored or had to align bore when switching over to arp main bolts?
If the main bore is currently straight, swapping to ARP bolts will likely not distort the bores too much. Technically, even if you put a different stockbolt in a different hole it could distort a wee bit. If you want to be sure, put the arp's in, torque em up, and have the machine shop bore guage them. It only takes a minute to do.
If you go with arp studs, you will have to align hon the block. Studs change the bores a ton.
If the main bore is currently straight, swapping to ARP bolts will likely not distort the bores too much. Technically, even if you put a different stockbolt in a different hole it could distort a wee bit. If you want to be sure, put the arp's in, torque em up, and have the machine shop bore guage them. It only takes a minute to do.
If you go with arp studs, you will have to align hon the block. Studs change the bores a ton.
What Pete said. A cheap way to do this is to install the crank and caps with the ARP bolts and see if it still turns free. Not as good as gaging but will tell you if there is a big problem. Rods are another matter. If you change rod bolts the big ends must be resized, at least that is what all the egg-spurts say.
What Pete said. A cheap way to do this is to install the crank and caps with the ARP bolts and see if it still turns free. Not as good as gaging but will tell you if there is a big problem. Rods are another matter. If you change rod bolts the big ends must be resized, at least that is what all the egg-spurts say.
A couple of dollars worth of plastigage wouldn't hurt, either.
First, put upper bearing shells in #1 and # 5 mains ONLY...couple drops of oil on the shells and lay the crank in...set dial indicator (those are so cheap now that everyone should own three) on crank journal #3 and check how straight your crank is...then put new bearings in all mains and OIL each , the crank MUST turn with only finger torque on the flywheel flange.
i am away working right now, but when i get home i will go and pick my block up from the machine shop (where its been for a few weeks). i will ask them about it and get them to try what pete said.