Lt1 Crank hub install
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 918
Likes: 55
From: Muskoka Ontario
I made one out of hardened threaded rod, a bolt and several big hardened washers. Thread the rod thru the hub with the bolt and washers before the hub and wrench away. Cheap and worked like a charm.
Fred
Fred
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
Likes: 85
From: O'Fallon Missouri
Get 2 grade 8 bolts. One about an inch longer than stock, the other stock length. Start the hub with the longer bolt, then snug it down with the stock length bolt. Next all you need to do is remove the second bolt, and install the stock bolt and torque to spec.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,107
Likes: 14
From: Lancaster PA
Originally Posted by STL94LT1
Get 2 grade 8 bolts. One about an inch longer than stock, the other stock length. Start the hub with the longer bolt, then snug it down with the stock length bolt. Next all you need to do is remove the second bolt, and install the stock bolt and torque to spec.
Thanks for the info. I had always heard that you should not use the crank threads to pull on the hub. But since they are quite deep I lubed up the threads and lubed the washers to decrease friction and it went on pretty easy.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Lancaster CA
Originally Posted by BrianCunningham
I managed to do with it that way as well.
The hardest part was lining up the non-keyed balancer.
The hardest part was lining up the non-keyed balancer.
Shawn
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
Likes: 85
From: O'Fallon Missouri
Originally Posted by SSLT1KID
i have never installed an LT1 balancer hub, what is it that you have to line up?
Shawn
Shawn
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 5
From: Howard PA
If you look inside the hub when you take it off you can clearly see where the key-way was. Just follow that line to the outside of the hub and make a mark with a sharpie. Put the key-way up on the crank snout when you install the hub, line up your mark with the key-way and then you know it's back on the way it came off.
It's probably not that critical as mentioned, but I like to be as accurate and factory as possible. Why take the chance?
It's probably not that critical as mentioned, but I like to be as accurate and factory as possible. Why take the chance?
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Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
From: Medina Mn
I am installing the dampner hub as well and could not find an install tool long enough to pass through the hub and thread into to crank. The hardened bolts sound like the ticket. A question I still have is; when the timig cover was off the crank and cam sprockets were lined up (dot to dot) and I would view that as TDC. The crank key is ~1 o'clock and as stated below, looking inside the hub I can clearly see the witness of the key aligned with the TDC arrow on the hub. Do I align with the sprockets or the old witness? I think the witness but not sure.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
Likes: 85
From: O'Fallon Missouri
Originally Posted by Morey Magnuson
I am installing the dampner hub as well and could not find an install tool long enough to pass through the hub and thread into to crank. The hardened bolts sound like the ticket. A question I still have is; when the timig cover was off the crank and cam sprockets were lined up (dot to dot) and I would view that as TDC. The crank key is ~1 o'clock and as stated below, looking inside the hub I can clearly see the witness of the key aligned with the TDC arrow on the hub. Do I align with the sprockets or the old witness? I think the witness but not sure.
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 65,811
Likes: 71
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by fredk
I made one out of hardened threaded rod, a bolt and several big hardened washers. Thread the rod thru the hub with the bolt and washers before the hub and wrench away. Cheap and worked like a charm.
Fred
Fred
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
From: Medina Mn
My witness doesn't match either. If I were to rotate the crank 360 number 1 should be TDC having both the cam and crank sprocket dots at 12 oclock. Either way my hub witness is at 12 and the crank key slot is ~1 oclock. I do not know the history of the engine so maybe it was misaligned as well. I would think the dots are depicting true TDC.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 5
From: Howard PA
Does anyone know 100% if the hub/balancer assy. is neutral balanced? And if the LT4 hub/balancer is also neutral?
I'm thinking they must be or the factory wouldn't take the chance they might slip a bit and throw things way out of balance without a key-way.
My thoughts anyway.
I'm thinking they must be or the factory wouldn't take the chance they might slip a bit and throw things way out of balance without a key-way.
My thoughts anyway.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
Likes: 85
From: O'Fallon Missouri
From what I've read, all but the very hardest to balance engines have neutral balanced dampners.
HUB AND BALANCER
The balancer is a two-piece assembly with a pulley that bolts onto the hub. Separating the two made it easier to install the Optispark distributor on the assembly line and out in the field. The holes in the hub are offset, so the balancer only fits on it one way, but there’s no keyway in the hub to index the hub on the crank. This shouldn’t be a problem unless the damper was drilled at the factory to "trim" the final engine assembly.
If it was drilled a lot to compensate for an engine that was out of balance, you could end up with a shaker, depending on how everything stacked up with the remanufactured engine compared to the original engine. If you encounter a balance problem on a remanufactured LT1, try rotating the balancer assembly on the crank 90° at a time to see if it eliminates the problem.
HUB AND BALANCER
The balancer is a two-piece assembly with a pulley that bolts onto the hub. Separating the two made it easier to install the Optispark distributor on the assembly line and out in the field. The holes in the hub are offset, so the balancer only fits on it one way, but there’s no keyway in the hub to index the hub on the crank. This shouldn’t be a problem unless the damper was drilled at the factory to "trim" the final engine assembly.
If it was drilled a lot to compensate for an engine that was out of balance, you could end up with a shaker, depending on how everything stacked up with the remanufactured engine compared to the original engine. If you encounter a balance problem on a remanufactured LT1, try rotating the balancer assembly on the crank 90° at a time to see if it eliminates the problem.
Last edited by STL94LT1; Sep 10, 2006 at 10:58 PM.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
From: Medina Mn
The 94 Helms manual is very clear on ensuring TDC when pressing the hub and instructs you to use # 1 piston to find it. Also very clear when removing the hub to be sure you mark hub and timing cover to ensure correct alignment when reinstalling.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 765
Likes: 0
From: Houston Texas
Originally Posted by ALLT4
Does anyone know 100% if the hub/balancer assy. is neutral balanced? And if the LT4 hub/balancer is also neutral?
I'm thinking they must be or the factory wouldn't take the chance they might slip a bit and throw things way out of balance without a key-way.
My thoughts anyway.
I'm thinking they must be or the factory wouldn't take the chance they might slip a bit and throw things way out of balance without a key-way.
My thoughts anyway.
Don't chance that the balancer is a neutral balance.
Hummmm.... I can't find a "key" shown on the crank to align the hub on the crank shaft in the FSM. I can't imagine the crank without a key slot to align the hub and rely on the center bolt to keep it from slipping on the shaft. Anyone?
Last edited by Eddie & the Cruisers; Sep 10, 2006 at 11:39 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 5
From: Howard PA
Originally Posted by Morey Magnuson
The 94 Helms manual is very clear on ensuring TDC when pressing the hub and instructs you to use # 1 piston to find it. Also very clear when removing the hub to be sure you mark hub and timing cover to ensure correct alignment when reinstalling.
It's a mystery I guess.
Also very clear when removing the hub to be sure you mark hub and timing cover to ensure correct alignment when reinstalling.
