Drivers door panel removal on 96
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 437
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From: Houston Texas
Cruise-In III Veteran
Drivers door panel removal on 96
Has anyone removed the door panel on the drivers side, If so how difficult is it. I recently noticed that something is allowing the front end of the window (the end near the rear view mirror) to extend to far up(about a 1" to far up) Is there so way to adjust this? Any help would be appreciated.
:confused:
Dan
:confused:
Dan
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,608
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From: Houston TX
Cruise-In III Veteran
Re: Drivers door panel removal on 96 (DAN T)
Yo Dan...I noticed a post the other day talking about removing the panels but I don't remember where it was exact where is was. The only thing they mentioned being difficult was a "S" clip behind the handle.
Are we still on for this weekend? :seeya
Are we still on for this weekend? :seeya
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 437
Likes: 0
From: Houston Texas
Cruise-In III Veteran
Re: Drivers door panel removal on 96 (Eric A)
Eric I seen that post but I wanted to know how and the difficulty factor of adjusting the window was and what could have possibly went wrong. As far as this weekend, it still a go and looking forward to it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,200
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Re: Drivers door panel removal on 96 (DAN T)
i've had the door panel off my 94. pretty close to a 96.
1 remove the door light - use a butter knife on the top about 1" in on both sides to release the snaps. there is a screw behind the light.
2 inside the door handle are 2 screws. one is visible and one is behind the door lock slide bar. the slide bar pops out by prying up and out on the grip edge. once these screws are out wiggle the door handle frame loose.
3 there are 2 screws in the armrest
4 remove the snaps on the bottom edge of the door panel. use the butter knife and work them out. you should be able to reuse them.
5 the window must be down to remove the panel. ( it hugs the upper lip of the door )
once all the fastners are out lift up on the panel
6 there are 4 wireing plugs going to the panel .... unplug them, the door handle frame can be pushed through the panel and remain plugged.
BTW...... you will not find access to the power window easy. even with the panel off i could not see much of the window.
1 remove the door light - use a butter knife on the top about 1" in on both sides to release the snaps. there is a screw behind the light.
2 inside the door handle are 2 screws. one is visible and one is behind the door lock slide bar. the slide bar pops out by prying up and out on the grip edge. once these screws are out wiggle the door handle frame loose.
3 there are 2 screws in the armrest
4 remove the snaps on the bottom edge of the door panel. use the butter knife and work them out. you should be able to reuse them.
5 the window must be down to remove the panel. ( it hugs the upper lip of the door )
once all the fastners are out lift up on the panel
6 there are 4 wireing plugs going to the panel .... unplug them, the door handle frame can be pushed through the panel and remain plugged.
BTW...... you will not find access to the power window easy. even with the panel off i could not see much of the window.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 437
Likes: 0
From: Houston Texas
Cruise-In III Veteran
Re: Drivers door panel removal on 96 (Rich_01659)
Thanks for the help Rich, I think I'll try to tackle it tonight.
Eric If your reading this, come on over I'll need someone with
"small hands" :lol: :D
Eric If your reading this, come on over I'll need someone with
"small hands" :lol: :D
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 3
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
Re: Drivers door panel removal on 96 (DAN T)
To remove the bottom of the door panel, slide a 3 inch wide putty knife between the door and panel to pop the whole door panel away. Do not pry at the heads as you can damage the clips or door panel.
The tricky part is the screw behind the manual lock slide. The lever has to be pried up to get at this screw. It takes some force, so make sure you are prepared.
While you are in there, you can eliminate any sqeaks by placing the soft part of Velco where you see the panel is rubbing against the door. I used about 3 feet of this stuff around the parimeter of the door.
The tricky part is the screw behind the manual lock slide. The lever has to be pried up to get at this screw. It takes some force, so make sure you are prepared.
While you are in there, you can eliminate any sqeaks by placing the soft part of Velco where you see the panel is rubbing against the door. I used about 3 feet of this stuff around the parimeter of the door.
