C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Camber brace questions

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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 07:09 PM
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Default Camber brace questions

I've read a lot of the post regarding the application of camber braces. They seem to be popular for improving agressive handling and sounds like maybe flex issue on coups with tops off.
I am concidering putting them on my 90 vert to stiffen it up. I'm not looking for a whole lot of improved handling but more of an improvement in the amount of shaking going on especially with my hood. The cost looks pretty reasonable so my questions are 1. how difficult of an install is it? and 2. will I notice any improvement with my hood shake?

Thanks
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 07:31 PM
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1. Easy to install. I had a helper and I got it on in about 15 minutes...the helper wasn't much of a help either!

2. ??? Before I could drive it I had caliper problem that has kept me off the road.
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 11:02 PM
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The Camber-Brace wont really help that much. R-D Racing makes a Cross-Frame that goes under the car to help witht he frame flexing. Your 'vert alrerady has a factory x-frame, but the R-D one is stronger.
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 11:07 PM
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Camber brace does almost nothing for cowl or body stiffness. Just improves handling and worsens ride. If roads in MI are anything like I've heard, you don't want one. Had to take mine off when I moved to PA to keep my fillings intact.

I don't have noticeable hood movement even on these crappy roads, so I'd say you have something out of whack that needs to be adjusted or repaired.

To improve body stiffness on a vert, the RDR cross-bar makes a world of difference (ties the seatbelt towers together).
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 02:36 AM
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A cross-bar behind the seat will do more for chassis stiffness than the camber brace, it keeps the A-arm mounts from flexing in cornering.
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 07:10 AM
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If you can fabricate or have a friend that can you can keep the costs way down to stiffen up that vette. I installed on my shaky old vert for exactly the reasons you are wanting:
1. My homemade version of the Cross Brace-total cost $15


2. Boxed in my factory X brace with heavy sheet metal-total cost $10


3. A used Camber brace I bought on the forum total cost $100
I felt like each and every item made an improvement on my car including the camber brace. Overall they have transformed it. The chassis is very solid now, and the car drives tight with very little flexing around.
My experience with the camber brace certainly did not worsen the ride. I guess it is possible if I had not braced the other areas of the car first that it could have had a different effect but that was not what occurred when I installed it on my car.
Roy
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 09:49 AM
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I agree with the others above. I have the camber brace and it did nothing to improve cowl shake with the top off. It isn't designed to improve this. I mainly noticed the car feels more planted with higher G corners especially if they have bumps in them.
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by MYCoupe
The Camber-Brace wont really help that much. R-D Racing makes a Cross-Frame that goes under the car to help witht he frame flexing. Your 'vert alrerady has a factory x-frame, but the R-D one is stronger.
The R-D brace is stronger due to the boxed tube but the designs are different. The rear ahlves of the factory X-brace also attaches to the car's belly pan while the R-D brace does not.

Boxing in the factory brace should help some but adding a cross bar between the B-pillars will help.

I never noticed a lot of cowl shaking with my 92 vert. I had a factory hardtop and when that was installed, it made a tremendous difference in body stiffness and the all of the typical 'vert squeaks and rattles went away. The factory hardtop when properly installed makes the vert stiffer than a coupe.

If your hood is shaking, you may have some problem with adjustments. The locking pins adjust for length so you might try that. If you lower the hood slowly, will the pins sit on top of the locks witout latching? If they don't, the pin length may be too long or the locking latch spring is too weak.

There are also some rubber bumpers that can be adjusted to help keep the hood in place. They have a round top surface with a hex-nut molded below and threads in the body. They can be turned in and out to make adjustments.
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 11:53 AM
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Those little rubber baby buggy bumpers make a world of difference also check the ones by the wheel whelels. not to much still want to be able to lock the hood down! WRO
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 12:42 PM
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I live in Michigan and put a camber brace on my 89 convertible and noticed a definite improvement in handling. Also it doesn't seem to track in the ruts on asphalt roads nearly as much as it used to. Piece of cake to install except on the driver side the bolt would not go in past the PS reservoir (I think it was that anyway, it's been a couple years), had to grind some off the bolt head (suggestion from Dave) and then it slipped in. Well worth the cost in my opinion.

I also installed the cross brace behind the seats a few days after and didn't notice much improvement.
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 01:32 PM
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I installed a camber brace in mine. It did improve my suspension. I was looking into the cross bar. After reading your "customer satisfaction" comments I should go for it.
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark_Sheehy
I live in Michigan and put a camber brace on my 89 convertible and noticed a definite improvement in handling. Also it doesn't seem to track in the ruts on asphalt roads nearly as much as it used to. Piece of cake to install except on the driver side the bolt would not go in past the PS reservoir (I think it was that anyway, it's been a couple years), had to grind some off the bolt head (suggestion from Dave) and then it slipped in. Well worth the cost in my opinion.

I also installed the cross brace behind the seats a few days after and didn't notice much improvement.
It isn't the resevoir it hits, at least not on my 86 l98, it was the PS pulley.

The way I got around it was leaving the passenger side of the brace unbolted and free. I put the nose of the bolt through the slot in the brace and then moved it into position with the bolt angled towards the rear of the car and on that, rearward, side of the pulley, you can then use the fact that the brace has a slot to do some finaggling and get the nose of the bolt to slide into and through the actual a-arm hole and then bolt it on.

At first I was having the same problems as you were however.
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 07:11 PM
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Next question is, which gives more clearance in the front L98 or LT1. This is a custom application.
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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 07:35 PM
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Thanks for the great input. Fast Max, nice work. I was thinking of doing something simmilar with my x brace to start with. Now I just need to find a good welder, or maybe this is my excuse to buy one and learn.
I'm gonna go with a camber brace too. I may not be pushing into the turns that hard but if it improves tracking on dished out roads that would be good. I have 285's on all four and have notice the tracking thing a lot on bad roads.
Like I said, the hood shaking or actually bouncing is my biggest annoyance. I'll get the car stiff then see what next to try with the hood. Its most noticeable right over the wheels, not really any motion near the windshield. I have adjusted the rubber bumpers just infront of the wheel. I'd say they are compressing about 1/4" when the hood is closed. Maybe I should raise them a bit more? But I will get it stiff first.
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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MYCoupe
Your 'vert alrerady has a factory x-frame, but the R-D one is stronger.
Especially if you weld it solid in the center, after it has been fitted to the car.
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