(Also posted in Tech & Perf)

Let me just say it was difficult enough just trying to figure out where to stick the damn paperclip...

95 with OBDII connector (16 pin). Finally figured it out and jumped 4 and 12. Got following codes:

H53 (Low voltage?)
1.

---
1.

---
9.

---
A.


then

1.0


Next I got from banging around on the trip comp buttons...


H53
1.1



Voltage on display is 11.9, yesterday when it wouldn't start it was 12.9 or so. That's got to be enough to at least trigger the solenoid, no?

From here 53=ECM detected a battery voltage either above 17.1 volts or below 8 volts.


But it's behaving like a VATS problem, I saw somewhere a code 53 might be PASS Key Open which leads me to this:

http://www.vettetop100.com/crowz/1995.htm

Service Bulletin Number: 01-053
Bulletin Sequence Number: 062
Date of Bulletin: 9502
NHTSA Item Number: SB039336
Make: CHEVROLET
Model: CORVETTE
Year: 1995
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION ANTI-THEFT CONTROLLER
Summary: INTERMITTENT OPEN GROUND ON VATS CIRCUIT OF THE CCM CAUSING VEHICLES TO EXPERIENCE A NO CRANK CONDITION. *TW

Ok, solutions?
VATS bypass?
How do I find out the resolution to Service Bulletin Number: 01-053?

Crying shame to have a vert parked while the weather is still nice.

 

Have you checked the battery with a multi meter or just relied on the digital dash?

 

Hi - Weird things happen when your battery voltage is low so this would be the first thing to check out. As Case mentioned, measure the voltage at the battery terminals with the multimeter. (If you don't have one, you can get a cheap digital at Radio Shack)

11.9 volts is about a 35% charge and for most purposes - a dead battery. 12.7 + volts is considered 100% (full) charge. Also you should use a multimeter to test your alternator output, which at the battery, should be 14+ volts (I get 14.7) when the engine is first started.

I also have a 95 and find that the battery looses its charge rather quickly when I don't run it for a week or so and that has caused a lot of "weird " things to happen. A lot of people on here recommended the Battery Tender http://www.batterytender.com/ I got the Battery Tender Plus model which at Pep Boys for about $45. and haven't had a problem since.

If you find you have a dead battery, use a charger to get it back to a full charge. I've been told that using battery cables to jump it and then using the alternator to charge the battery is very hard on the alternator and will lead to its early demise. (BTW if you use the battery tender to bring up the battery you'll need to leave it at least overnight(slow charging) - there are indicator lights which will tell you when the charge is full)

As for getting the codes- I also got a bit tired of standing on my head and trying to find the right holes for the paperclip and so got an extension cable from these guys http://obd2cables.com/ Get a # 144201, Cable, J1962M to J1962F, 5ft. It's the one you see pictured on their home page. It's $24.95 and well worth it as it will save you a trip to your doctor to get your back straightened out!

 

Thanks, I still haven't gotten a chance to look at the car more.

It didn't start at 12.8 (on the dash) and now it's more unlikely to start with the low voltage.

I'm still leaning to VATS or clutch safety switch.

I've got the resistors to defeat the VATS, if that's what it turns out to be. But I'm not counting out loose connection to battery either.