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Everything I have read says to steer clear of gear drives. The gear whine confuses the knock sensor/EST. Would be very interested to know how your set up works out.
Everything I have read says to steer clear of gear drives. The gear whine confuses the knock sensor/EST. Would be very interested to know how your set up works out.
The "quiet" gear drive isn't necessarily quiet. It just differentiates it from the "loud" gear drive, which IS loud.
I have never installed one, but I would expect the installation to be self evident.
As with a timing chain, there is no different gear drive for solid and hydraulic camshafts, nor for flat tappet and roller cams. Maybe you DO need instructions.
Factory roller type cams have a different bolt pattern than the earlier, flat tappet designs. If it bolts correctly to the cam, I would presume it is the one you need.
I am sure that is why there are two different part numbers for the small block chevy with the quiet gears: one for earlier standard cams, and one for the later factory hydraulic roller.
I guess I still need instructions, CFI-EFI.
I am thinking there is a proper set up for the idlers to float with a sufficient amount of engagement. This is probably detailed in the instructions for set up with the front cover.
Correct. I was thinking of the variety of camshafts that usually replace the pre-OE roller cams. The timing sets for those engines, are universal, unless an OE roller cam is being adapted. OE roller cams use a different cam gear or sprocket than a retro roller camshaft. I don't know that it is the bolt pattern, so much as in is the step in the nose of the camshaft to accommodate the end play control.
You are not going to like this but if I were you I would resell the gear drive. Gear drives create vibration inside your engine and are not a good addition especially for street driven engines. Guys spend lots of money to balance their engines and add belt drives to make the engine more smooth and gear drives work exactly the opposite. Sorry to rain on your parade but I think if you check all the top engine builders you won't see a gear drive unless it has a 14/71 on it supercharger on it.
I had a Pete Jackson noisy gear drive in my old 327, man that thing sounded wicked. Everyone though I had a blower. I don't think there's any benefit in a gear drive on a roller cam.
Any repair manual can detail the installation. If you don't have access to one, email me. I'll send you a copy. As for the knock sensor, I too programmed it out at first when I installed one on a friends camaro, he too insisted on a gear drive. He pinged a little bit, so we reset it to stock and installed a Electronic Spark Control module from an '88 Buick. Common trick for the TPI as it is way less sensitive. It's your car, and if you take the right actions you'll be just fine
It's been 10 years and two moves since I installed my last one, so I can't help with the instructions. It's still working just fine though, so reliability hasn't been a factor. I do remember that there is a specific backlash that you set with little offset eccentric bushings on the cam gear (just like the ones you use to advance or retard a cam), and I didn't see what year your car/motor is in your profile, but if it doesn't have a cam retainer, you MUST use the thrust bearing, and
I recommend welding a 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/16 thick plate to the timing cover where the thrust bearing will rub, cause with enough use it will eventually wear a hole in the timing cover (from what I did read in your profile it sounds like your car is a track car, so you may or may not have to worry about this), but it'll already be apart, and I'll bet you won't want to pull it down that far again just because it wore a hole!