Blower Motor Not Working
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
Blower Motor Not Working
Its starting to get cold up here in MI and I tried to turn on my heat the other day and my blower motor isn't comming on. Is there a prefered way of tracking this down?
I couldn't find the fues anywhere, that would be the best place to start. I guess I could also jump 12V over to the motor to make sure its not the motor itself, but I'm not sure it runs on 12V and I don't want to damage it.
Any suggestions from you guys would be helpful. Thanks.
I couldn't find the fues anywhere, that would be the best place to start. I guess I could also jump 12V over to the motor to make sure its not the motor itself, but I'm not sure it runs on 12V and I don't want to damage it.
Any suggestions from you guys would be helpful. Thanks.
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 364
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From: Monroe Washington
Just went through something similar, my blower only came on in High. On the passenger side near the firewall is a relay. On the evaporator housing are the resistors. First try the relay. Pull the relay out, pull off the cover, and reinstall. Turn the blower on (ignition on) and then take a small screwdriver and push down on the relay contact. If the blower starts your contacts are dirty.
That was the case with mine. Filed the contacts and now blower works great. The wiring is as such. With the blower switch in the lower two positions power is routed through the resistors. It then goes to the relay. With the relay deenergized power is sent to the blower. On high, the relay routes a full 12v directly to the blower motor, bypassing the resistors.
Hope this helps.
That was the case with mine. Filed the contacts and now blower works great. The wiring is as such. With the blower switch in the lower two positions power is routed through the resistors. It then goes to the relay. With the relay deenergized power is sent to the blower. On high, the relay routes a full 12v directly to the blower motor, bypassing the resistors.
Hope this helps.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
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St. Jude Donor '12
I forget exactly what Gordon K did to diagnose it on my 88, but we were able to rig something up that kept it running until I could get home and replace the motor. I seem to remember him taking a paperclip and jumpering a few connections. Replacing the motor was not that hard.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
Sorry I forgot to tell you which car I have, its a '93 LT1.
So there's a relay by the evaporator housing on the firewall? I'm not sure where that is. Some more detail would be great.
Oh, and is there a fuse at all?
So there's a relay by the evaporator housing on the firewall? I'm not sure where that is. Some more detail would be great.
Oh, and is there a fuse at all?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
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From: San Diego, Ca
No relay if it's Electronic Air - A Module, mounted on the evaporator case gets low voltage signals from the Programmer and amplifies them to control Blower Speed. The signal is the tan wire and it should have 2.5 volts at "1" and 6 volts at "10". Output is purple and it should have about 4 volts at "1" and 12 volts at "10". Verify the input voltages first. If it has the input, but no output, the Module is usually shot. If there's no input, a bi directional scanner is used to emulate the control panel, sending a blower request signal to the Programmer. If it works, you need a new control panel. If it doesn't a Programmer.
