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First of all, DON"T buy "Heads Up" head liner adhesive unless you like doing this repair. Go to Wall Mart and get the 3-M stuff, Its about $9.00 a can. Go the a fabric store and by head liner material, they actually have the real thing. Call around, its about 7.50-8.00 a yard. You'll need just a tad less than a yard (take the old headliner with you to get only as much as youl'll need). Carefully pull around the edges of the existing head liner and pull it loose around the edges and then pull it off the pad underneath. Clean off all excess old foam padding left stuck to the pad, use a stiff brush or roll your hand around on it, you will see what I mean when you get that far. DO NOT REMOVE THE FIBER PAD UNDER THE HEAD LINER MATERIAL. Spray a coat of the 3-M on the pad and let it dry for form a skin over the pad. Spray again this time on both the pad and the new head liner, I did 1/2 at a time, on both the pad and the new material and apply. Once its stuck, its stuck, it don't move, you don't get a second chance to reposition. Rub your hand over the new and make sure its stuck real well. Oh, take the old liner and use it for a pattern for the new liner but about a 1/4 larger than the old. Use a plastic knife or old credit card, (the best use for a credit card I've ever found) and tuck the edges back in. Good luck. I think acetone will remove the over spray from the metal, the over spray is nearly unavoidable. Again Good luck. once you get started, about 2 hours to do, and a little stress to the nerves, I found. Hope this helps... ;)
After all that is done join the Crimson Armada, better yet don't wait, join now!
87 DRM Coupe :jester
Pete:
The above reply gives good information, although you will find it easier to do the job, and eliminate glue overspray by removing the headliner from the top.
The hard styrofoam backing board is attached to the top with short (2") velcro strips placed at various locations. Using care not to bend the backing board excessively as to break it, pry the corner edge of the headliner down slightly and insert a paint mixing stick to separate the headliner from the top at the velcro locations.
Good luck with your project.
Joe
Mr. G. I have heard it both ways off the forum and could not Conclusively determine if was held in by velcro or not to remove it. Being unsure I left it in. I guess If you have done it and found it held in by velcro, I'd remove it too. That would make the job easier. Thanks for the tip.
vette87:
Better to err on the safe side than breaking it since you weren't sure.
I started doing headliners on Vettes after hearing what a friend paid for a replacement headliner from GM.
I've done close to 100 so far, and I haven't come across 1 that wasn't attached with velcro.
I do remember the post you refer to where someone said his was glued up.
I can only guess that in that case, some DIYer or shop ruined the velcro and glued it up to get the job out the door.
If you look in the shop manual under the Roof Panel Assembly the picture will show the velcro strips I'm speaking of. There are 5, one located in each corner and 1 located in the center of the top.
Hope this tip helps others.
Regards
Joe
Then, since it can obviously be removed, why can't the head liner material be wrapped around the sides of the pad and be stuck back in? so the tuck step is taken out of the picture. Or does that create too much bulk underneath the pad for the velcro? I would guess it make it too thick. I have done this twice now, and I know I'll have to do it again. So I am trying to refine the technique. Can a new pad be purchased some place in case that becomes an issue?? :cheers:
vette87:
Approx. 1" of the headliner material is wrapped around the edge, and onto the back side of the backerboard and glued down. There is no tuck step if you remove the headliner from the top, and it is not too thick to wrap it around.
You'll need to cut V reliefs in the corners of the material, so doesn't overlap itself on the backside and come unglued.
If you need a replacement backer(which is highly unlikely) I'd check C4 junk yards, or it MAY be available from GM parts as an entire headliner. I don't know if GM discontinued it.
In a pinch, a new backer can be fabricated from thin stock.
1. Remove headliner/backer from top
2. Remove material and excess dried out foam from backer
3. Apply glue and new material to backer leaving approx 1" of excess material to fold over to backside of backer.
ON A CLEAN SURFACE:
4. Turn backer over, and cut V's in the corners.
5 Apply glue to edges and finish gluing material on backside
6. Let glue dry and install headliner into top.
:cheers:
Joe
What is the thin stock material?? this is too cool, the next time I do this it will be sooooo easy.
:D :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
To all.....yes I say many thanks to all with the help.... I had a hard time getting black liner... but found it... so out to the garage to do the job...
TA DA......I am done....what a &%*$#.... Yep, you guessed it mine was all glued down..., but got it all off without tearing it up... New one looks great...
Thanks to you guys for the help walking me threw it..
Glad to hear your project was sucessful.
While I've never come across one that was glued in, let's not discount the possibility it's glued.
I'd suggest anyone getting ready to do this, buy a foot or two of 1" wide velcro when you purchase your new headliner material. If you find your headliner is glued in, after removing it, hot glue some velcro onto the foam backer, and the top to aid in EZ removal the next time it needs to be replaced.
Another tip, use the edge of an old credit card, and stiff bristle brush ( handheld whisk broom) to remove the old foam left from the old material on the backer.
Joe
I used a vaccum to suck the old stuff off and then just rubbed mine down by hand and with a colth to get good and clean. My backer board was fiber glass.. must be for the heat thing from the top....
I hope I will not have to do again for a while.....