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Here we go again. Car will not start but same story, the gauges work, battery is BRAND new.
So far I had a new ignition with new keys and alternator installed. The problem returned. Took it to an auto electric shop and had a diagnostic check. They told me everything is OK but that the battery was bad so I replaced the battery.
Everything was great for 10 days. I went to start today and same problem again. Gauges work, radio and horn work, but it will not start!
The starter does not even make a sound.
I am totally confused and have tried everything.
Can anybody offer and suggestions. I'm going crazy! It's a 91 6 speed.
Thanks,
Keith
Sorry to hear this. What is the status of the new battery? Is it fully charged? If it is, I agree; ck all wires, battery, ignition, alternator, solenoid, starter, etc.
I have had it since June this year. The battery they put in at the dealership was new. That is the one that I had to replace last week for another new one. Exide 60.
Couple things I have experienced with my '92...
1) Even with a new key, sometimes the "pellet" in the key seems to given an invalid resistance. Resulting in the car won't start for 3 minutes. More than likely, my VATs is acting up...could be the connectors in the ignition?
2) For some reason, one time I thought I was eperiencing the above problem, but it was different. Finally connected jumper-cables and it started. I think the voltage level just dipped below some thread-hold for the starter. It's been ok, since.
The 1) problem pisses me off the most. I think I might look into disconnecting my VATs.
Side-note: My bother-in-laws are mechanics...they think the Exide battery brand is junk. I have to admit, I had one in my Nissan...it corroded my cables extremely bad. Had to replace the terminal connectors. Got an Intersate battery, and now no more corrosion.
When it won't crank, unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if automatic) and jump the socket. Connect a voltmeter from the jumper to ground and try a crank. If you get 12v but no cranking, then you have a starter problem. If you don't get 12v in the crank position, then you have to find why 12v isn't getting to the jumper. Here's the path: battery through fusible link to firewall connector to ign sw to start enable relay contacts to clutch safety sw. You can also test the starter by jumping 12v to the clutch safety sw jumper, the starter should crank. You can determine the state of charge in your battery by measuring the battery terminal voltage. 12.9 volts and higher, fully charged. 12.0 volts and lower, discharged and linear in between. Also, if you measure the battery terminal voltage during cranking, the voltage should not fall below 9.0 volts or the battery is discharged, battery cable connection is poor, or the battery is at the end of its life.
I have had batteries right off the shelf be bad, and the life of a battery is unknown, vettes ride ruff and the inside of the battery take a good hit. I changed over to a optium battery and I have been amazed at the abuse it takes and how it recovers its charge.
The starter has a copper stud coming out to hook up battery cable I have found that the back side of that stud can ware out so no power gets transfored to turn over the starter, You can buy a lifetime starter at Auto Zone, advanced auto for 52.00 and it does just barely come out of the bottom of the Car.