It's pretty unusual for an oil filter to "fall off". How tight did you get the filter?? You should apply a thin film of new oil to the rubber gasket and thread the filter on until the gasket contacts the base of the filter mount (you did clean the flat part of the mount, right ??)

Then tighten the filter at least 3/4 turn beyond where it first became snug. No need to overtighten as the gasket with the oil will act as a gripper seal along with not allowing leaks.

As far as FRAM oil filters go, most studies that have been referenced here on the CF, on the ZR-1 Net and other places, show that it is among the absolute worst of all the paper-media filters. At some point, FRAM changed the media in their filters from a decent paper to a thin and smaller kraft-type paper. Cut a new FRAM filter apart aned compare it to a WIX, Purolator or any of the other typical auto parts store filters to see for yourself.

WIX is one of the three major oil filter makers and they make filters for a number of brand names.

FRAM used to make good oil filters. Not anymore. Their air filters are fine and are available at reasonable prices, but their oil filters are now garbage.

 

It was maybe up to 10 seconds before I shut the car off... It sounded completely normal up until the point I turned it off last night when the filter flew off... and it sounds pretty normal now w/ the new filter and new oil... I don't notice anything different. definitely no knocks or loud noises or anything coming from the engine.... just lower oil pressure. I drove around the block just now and everything seemed very normal, but when i parked it in the garage and let it idle, oil at 140*, the oil pressure was fluctuating a little bit -- not a lot -- but I've never seen it move on its own like that before... *shrug* I have yet to let it reach full operating temperature.

I'm tempted to give it some gas to see if it still has the vette power... but I don't want my engine to explode...

Oh, and yes we prep'd the oil filter by putting some oil on the gasket, and screwed it in pretty tight and snug, like always. no idea how it happened...maybe i need a new oil filter thread thing?

 

Apparently at least some Mobil 1 filters aren't all that great either!

 

When i install a oil filter I use a little oil on the gasket and tighten it as best I can by hand. I have never had a problem with it leaking of coming off. I don't think the engine was hurt too badly from the description. Hope not anyway. I might would drive it carfullly for a few days and watched the guages until I got down on it.

 

used to be a boat shop guy--the factory service manual for 455 oldsmobile/ berkley jet drives recommends changing oil by disconnecting the oil hose that goes to the oil cooler and running the engine until no more oil comes out ...i never tried it but many others did with no appparent ill effects...(you can't slide under a boat and drain the oil unless you really want to surprise the owner the next time he puts it in the lake)

 

Just to throw in my quick 2 cents but I have never used anything other than an AC Delco filter on any of my cars and I have never had ANY problems with an oil filter.

Save the Wave!

 

oh, Corvette Kid, I just realized i missed part of your question... I put back in 4 qts with the Wix filter, and it filled up 1/2 way up the "operation range" marking on the dipstick, slightly higher actually...so there was over 1/2 qt still left in the car after shutting it off, letting it coast to a stop, pushing it home then up my driveway (uphill, more oil came out at that point). Hopefully even more oil was still in there when I had turned the car off. Thanks again all who have replied.

 

I wonder if the old oil o-ring was still stuck to the engine when the new filter and o-ring went on... could that cause the filter to come undone..?
Damage to the internals?...doubt it, and minimal on soft bearings at worst.

 

If you have engine damage it will be the crankshaft bearings. A compression test won't show that. Quick and easy check is to run it for a while then do another oil/filter change. Check for any metal on the pan plug, but even more importantly take an oil sample and cut the filter open and check for metal particles in the filter. That will tell you if you are 'good to go' or if you need to roll in new bearings.

 

UH HUH!

 

Also, do you have the filter that popped off? If so, how do the threads look? You might have had a filter with a QA issue. If that's the case I would be all over Mobil 1.

Hopefully nothing is damaged

 

Ya, Drive it around, and listen for anything unusual, like a little engine noise that wasn't there before. Also keep an eye on the oil pressure.

When I was younger, I built up a beautiful 327 350HP engine in my auto mechanics class in college, and put it in my 74 Camaro. I bored it myself, did the heads myself, and honed the cylinders for the rings I was using. The engine ran great, it was my first build (I was very proud). Then I noticed the oil pressure dropping consistantly. I couldn't figure it out. So being new to it like I was, I pulled the pan, and replaced the oil pump with a high volume unit. Wow! I had great oil pressure, and thought all was well. As I drove it the pressure began to drop again. Note there was NO engine noise. So the instructor had me pull the pan again, and pull a main bearing cap. I did so, and the bearing didn't even resemble a bearing it was completely scored beyond recognition. The babbit didn't even exist. I have never seen anthing like it before, or after to this day. So we cleaned out the oil pan to a point where I found a huge amount of glass beads from the bead blasting machine. I had been Sabotaged, it almost put me into shock. I left the glass beads in my oil pan, and got ahold of my insurance agent. When the adjuster came and looked at it. It was plain to see what had happened. Then some days later, he called, and said there was nothing he could do. I had forgot to sign a few papers he claims (ya right). I'll never forget it, and am still bitter about it, and that was 25 years ago...

My point is this: I must have driven the car around 200 miles with those glass beads in the oil, and NO NOISE. When I changed the pan, I would just let the oil run into the oil reseptical. I didn't really look at it. My guess is the person/person's responsable would just keep adding beads after I would change the oil. There were at least 2 cups in there, when I pulled the pan. Sorry for going on like this. But it still shakes me up, when I talk about it... Good Luck...

 

I will side with those who say there "should" be no damage to the engine. I would be more concerned over why the filter cabe off. I would take a very close look at the threads on the oil filter adapter, that thinge the filter screws onto. They are very soft. I have little experience with Mobile 1 filters but Purealator made several filters with SAE and metric threads that looked the same. The metric would screw onto the SAE post but was loose and prone to leak. Haven't a clue if that is the case here but it is food for thought.
Suggest you let the car idle until it gets to operating temps. Watch for leaks and pressure. If there are no problems add rpm to your normal driving range and hold it there for a bit. If still no problems drive it as normal but keep a close watch.
Say again: Why did the filter fall off???

 

Check the threads on the old oil filter, pull the filter on the car now and check it's threads plus the threads on the oil cooler!!! It could fall off again if the threads are all damaged.

 

we went back and picked up the Mobil 1 filter off the ground that night...the threads looked ok, possibly a little bit shorter, and from everything that we could see, the thread post on the car looked ok as well. we're gonna take the filter to a shop and have them check it out, see if they notice something we don't. If the filter comes off again, I'll definitely be reacting quicker this time, then I know something isn't right, and isn't just a freak incident.

I suppose I could do what you suggested Aminnich, to do another oil change ... but i'm spending so much money on all this oil...I guess it would be better than more money on even bigger engine repairs. How long do you think I should drive it around before doing another oil change?

 

WIX is a Good filter

 

You want to be sure to drive it enough that the 'new' oil has flushed any metal into the filter, but not really any longer that necessary.
Metal shavings in the oil would be like pouring sand in the motor, the sooner you find out if they are in there (or not) the better. I would doubt if you have any damage beyond bearing wear and rolling in new bearings is not expensive compared to progressive damage that could mean a complete motor overhaul.

 

Wix is good, fram is crap series 7 filter, gm filters are also crap, mobile filters are the best in my opinion.
RAY

 

I agree with the guys who are saying stay away from Fram. Bummer about the filter blowing off, most unusual.Good Luck!

 

Would be of any benefit to send the oil sample to one of those engine oil labs that lists out all the different chemicals and solids in the used oil?