hello everybody, god bless america. i was driving home this morning and the battery light came on,as well the guage dial droped to from its usual spot to about 9 or 10 amps. made it home and took the alternator to the shop and had it checked, its charging 12 and 13 1/2 where its suppose to be. has any body ran into this problem befor? if so how did you resolve it. also i lowered the car with the kit from mid america two weeks ago if any body is planning on doing this, i belive i have some tips. the car looks killer and since they already ride rough cant tell a difference there. oh yea the car is`90L98 6SPEED thanks for your time..........

 

Well, lets have some tips on lowering. I plan on doing this is a week or two. I already have the Kit. I am gonna do it at the same time as my poly bushing kit.

Bob

 

Maybe my cars already been lowered.... But I dont understand how I could want my car any lower to the ground!!

 

Yeah I thought the same thing about my '88...till I got new shocks. Then it got about 1 1/2 or 2 inches higher.

Bob

 

[QUOTE]hello everybody, god bless america. i was driving home this morning and the battery light came on,as well the guage dial droped to from its usual spot to about 9 or 10 amps. made it home and took the alternator to the shop and had it checked, its charging 12 and 13 1/2 where its suppose to be. has any body ran into this problem befor? if so how did you resolve it.

:rolleyes: I think you got some bad info

Alt should put out 14 volts for a few minutes after initial startup...replenish for start up and power lost to clock etc. between starts

After replenish, should run 13.5 +

These alts are very susceptible to heat

Testing off the car, when it is cool can give misleading readings.

The fact that you already experienced an ALT ATTACK and survived should put you on notice

If the ALT drops to 10 volts while you are running it may shut you down and strand you...I know, it happened to me.

:seeya

 

it will take a good 3 hours just for the front thats drying time included. i read some where you were suppose to remove both lower control arms and shocks . this is not the case . i didnt remove the top bolts on either shock or the lower control arm on the driver side. you can move the shocks around enough plus you are only going to pull the spring out one side the side you take the lower control arm off. also you will have to disconnect both ends of the sway bar. you will also see the four bolts holding the spring 2 on each side from below the car. now iv heard horror stories about getting the wrench on the heads of the bolts which you have to get from the top. the trick here is to leave tention on the spring (bolts) so that when you wrench the nut the bolt will have enough tention on it to get the nut loose and backed off enough so as to get a screwdriver on the very top threads to hold the bolt the rest of the time. oh yea after you get the nut loose you will have to get a jack ( i used a scissor jack) to raise the spring back up as to get to the top of the threads of each bolt. i would also recommend spraying wd-40 on these bolts as well. mine were in perfect condition i had no problem with that part. repeat the steps going back in with it. its also a bitch cutting the factory rubber stops of the spring you will have to be creative on this , a vice helps. the back is so easy i wont go in to that. when done follow the inctructions you were givin. oh yea some people glue the new stops to the frame and some to the spring . i reasoned the spring would be better because the stop would be sitting instead of hanging in case somthing went wrong. hope it this helps. hey what about my alternator problem???????????????

 

I believe I answered it

:seeya

 

thanks.