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hey guys,
i installed the cross frame.BIG difference.i already have the camber brace.with both on the car it makes it so much tighter.no more chassis flex and minimal steering shake on a bump only.i put new khumo escta mx's on the front (had them on the rear),excellent tire.the car feels alot more solid.stays flat in the corners.
the only gripe is the cross frame sits on one of the header tubes on the stainless works long tubes.for a quick fix i put a thick piece of rubber between them to deaden the vibration transfer.i am guessing i can flatten the frame to clear the header for a better long term solution.anyone else run into this and what did you do? thanks,george
I had a similar problem with a 3" exhaust pipe. You can "dimple" the cross-frame with a decent size hammer and it won't hurt anything. This came straight from Dave...when he was running the company.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
You could also shim under one or both front mounting points. I made and installed an 1/8" shim under the LF to cure a minor contact problem with the pipes I had on it at that time.
I have a 87' roadster that we have 3" headers and pipes. Ended up puting about a 1/2" shim under both front mounts and then ended up using a 2x4 and a piece of 1" angle iron put it under the tube and then a floor jack under the front mount of the brace, jacked the car up and this put a little bend in it to clear the pipes. Lost about 1" ground clearance and rub some drives. wro87
hey guys,
i installed the cross frame.BIG difference.i already have the camber brace.with both on the car it makes it so much tighter.no more chassis flex and minimal steering shake on a bump only.i put new khumo escta mx's on the front (had them on the rear),excellent tire.the car feels alot more solid.stays flat in the corners.
the only gripe is the cross frame sits on one of the header tubes on the stainless works long tubes.for a quick fix i put a thick piece of rubber between them to deaden the vibration transfer.i am guessing i can flatten the frame to clear the header for a better long term solution.anyone else run into this and what did you do? thanks,george
I'd reccomend denting the frame. if you have access to a hydralic press, lay a 2x4 aross the frame where you need to bend the tubing and press on the wood. That way you'll limit the damage to the powder coat.
Even though I don't own the company any longer, I still like to hear of satisfied customers using products that I designed. I'm glad you can "Feel the Difference".
The R-D Cross-Frame and the SW 2-1/2" collectors co-exist
happily with no contact between components.
My car retains a stock, tallish ride height and the C-F can connect
with curbs & aggressive speed bumps occasionally.
IMO, exceptional care & communication is necessary to ensure that
shops DO NOT hoist by lifting against the C-F. There is a danger
that the SMC footwells will be cracked or worse.
A great product, but additional vigilance is required.
thanks for the input.dave,your products are of high quality and THEY WORK.i enjoyed speaking to you on a couple of occasions.good to see you still roaming the forum.thanks again,george
I have the Stainless Works long tubes and the CrossFrame. I dropped the front of the frame about 3/8 of an iinch by shimming the front attach points with some washers. Seems to work OK. You can also flatten the CrossFrame in the area of contact, it wont effect the strength. The X frame members are loaded in tension.
when i have some time i will mash the frame in that spot per dave's instruction.i took the top out today and for the first time i could enjoy driving it topless.still some vibration in the steering wheel at certain speeds but nothing like before.this thing works!