C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Tightening header bolts

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Old Oct 4, 2006 | 11:41 PM
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Default Tightening header bolts

I have a bit of ticking from the motor, most likely becuase I never re-tightened the header bolts after I reassembled the motor.

I pulled off all of the locking clips, now do I simply tighten them all up, or do I need to loosen them and re-tighten?

I assume the torque spec is the same as for the stock headers?

TIA
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 07:20 AM
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If you want to achieve a certain torque, then you need to loosen first.

I'd just check if they're snug and only worry about torque value if I find one that's really loose.
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 10:17 AM
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Thanks, I'll check today.
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 12:26 PM
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I've always had leaks if I tried to tighten the header bolts to proper torque. Now I just crank them down.
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ScaryFast
I pulled off all of the locking clips, now do I simply tighten them all up, or do I need to loosen them and re-tighten?
You can simply tighten them. They are already loose. That is why they are "ticking". Through heat, contraction, and compression of the header bolts, the gasket contracts, becomes thinner, and that leaves the header bolts loose. Some can get loose enough where they will even back out and become looser with time. If you re-tighten them after each heat cycle, until they no longer need it, two or three cycles, you can, then, forget them and you won't need to mess with expensive crutches like "locking clips".

RACE ON!!!
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
You can simply tighten them. They are already loose. That is why they are "ticking". Through heat, contraction, and compression of the header bolts, the gasket contracts, becomes thinner, and that leaves the header bolts loose. Some can get loose enough where they will even back out and become looser with time. If you re-tighten them after each heat cycle, until they no longer need it, two or three cycles, you can, then, forget them and you won't need to mess with expensive crutches like "locking clips".

RACE ON!!!
Thanks again. And the locks were free with the headers, I wouldn't pay extra for them...
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
You can simply tighten them. They are already loose. That is why they are "ticking". Through heat, contraction, and compression of the header bolts, the gasket contracts, becomes thinner, and that leaves the header bolts loose. Some can get loose enough where they will even back out and become looser with time. If you re-tighten them after each heat cycle, until they no longer need it, two or three cycles, you can, then, forget them and you won't need to mess with expensive crutches like "locking clips".

RACE ON!!!
What kind of gaskets did you use? I use solid copper gaskets and stainless allen head bolts. After a couple of rechecks, they maintain well.
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ScaryFast
Thanks again. And the locks were free with the headers, I wouldn't pay extra for them...
Cool! Use 'em of you got 'em. When you said "locks" it conjured up a picture in my mind of those ridiculously expensive and unneeded "Stage 8" brand of header fasteners.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 09:26 PM
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I bought the Stage 8 bolts. The clips would not fit with the EM headers. Now I have the same clicking noise as you and some of the bolts are hanging out a little. I bought some blue(medium) locktight today that I may try to use. Is there a wrench that fits the inside of the Stage 8's? I've tried metric and standard allens with no luck. The outside is 11m that you have to use an open ended wrench on which seems near impossible. I'll get it back to the mechanic on Monday.

Thanks
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 10:02 PM
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I too have used the Stage8 bolts and had to trim the edge down all the way to get them to fit. As far as the allen wrench used a ball type socket allen wrench SAE standard size. I can't rember the size but it was in my standard whench set also. Will ask my son to check since he put them on. I would not use any loc-tite on the bolts, if anything never-sieze since they are going in an aluminum head and might get real tuff to get them out later. wro87
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Old Oct 6, 2006 | 02:20 PM
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Mine are Stage 8's, thanks to EM for including all the hardware for free. Although I suppose it's in the cost of the header...nothing is ever "free".

I ground down the locks that go over the bolt, about half of them won't fit without doing that. I am glad I don't feel you pain getting them on, my engine compartment is empty so I can reach all but one with ease.

I agree about the loctite, if you can avoid it don't use it. Dissimilar metals do strange things when you repeatedly heat cycle them. Expansion rates are different. If you want to see what can happen, try to remove one of the steel plugs in youre aluminum heads...

You probably can't. I've had to pull the motor out to get one of those bad boys out, and in process destroyed a VERY expensive easy-out.
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Old Oct 6, 2006 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by wro87
I too have used the Stage8 bolts and had to trim the edge down all the way to get them to fit. As far as the allen wrench used a ball type socket allen wrench SAE standard size. I can't rember the size but it was in my standard whench set also. Will ask my son to check since he put them on. I would not use any loc-tite on the bolts, if anything never-sieze since they are going in an aluminum head and might get real tuff to get them out later. wro87
Avoid the Loctite and use anti-seize. My allen head bolts use a 5/16" allen drive. I have them in every configuration possible, long, short and ball drive in the socket type and a couple of different 'L' types. Altogether, they make quick and easy work of it.
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Old Oct 6, 2006 | 08:40 PM
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OK, No locktight. It looks like I found the correct size, 3/16. I'll have to take a trip in the morning to the parts store. I think I'm going to buy every 3/16 hex they have.

Thanks again
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