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I've developed some noise in my AIR pump. There's a tech tip for bypassing the pump by just removing it, taking off the back cover, breaking off the two plastic tabs, greasing up exposed bearings and re-installing. Sounds simple enough.
But, I'm curious if doing that can affect how the engine runs, idles, etc? Will the car have a richer exhaust if I bypass the AIR pump? Any other affects I should be aware of?
I know the AIR pump is supposed to warm up the cats faster when you first just start your car. Dunno if you have emissions or not, but since it is in the way of everything, I'd just buy an AIR pump elim kit somewhere.
Removing it should not really effect anything at all. If you have cats, then I say remove, regrease, reinstall, and reuse. If you have no cats, then get an elim kit.
I know the AIR pump is supposed to warm up the cats faster when you first just start your car. Dunno if you have emissions or not, but since it is in the way of everything, I'd just buy an AIR pump elim kit somewhere.
Removing it should not really effect anything at all. If you have cats, then I say remove, regrease, reinstall, and reuse. If you have no cats, then get an elim kit.
Still run a stock exhaust, so there's a cat. I agree, that assembly sits in the way of everything - it made the CTS replacement a much harder job than it should be and it screws up my TB by-pass by forcing the heater hose to route up and over the AIR tubing. That causes the hose to flatten when warm and reduce flow of coolant. I'd love to just get rid of it
Remove it! one of the nicest things I did for my engine bay.
I didn't beat mine to death but putting it in the attic was one of the smart things I have done. I don't think I recall anyone saying they had engine/performance issues with removal.
I didn't beat mine to death but putting it in the attic was one of the smart things I have done. I don't think I recall anyone saying they had engine/performance issues with removal.
One of the reasons I had to beat mine out because there was a bolt seize on a bracket and it broke that as well. Then it was down... That sucker HAD to go!!!!
Just make sure that if you pull all of the AIR stuff out you hook up your fuel pressure regulator. Use a little piece of tube to connect the vacuum port on your intake to the fuel pressure regulator. If not the regulator will be putting out max fuel pressure all the time.
One of the reasons I had to beat mine out because there was a bolt seize on a bracket and it broke that as well. Then it was down... That sucker HAD to go!!!!
takes the ''exploded view'' thing to a whole new level
your ecm and engine will have no idea that the air p is gone, except for prolly running cooler due to enhanced air flow thru the engine compartment.
if you're not off-road, you need a electric air pump from a 94-96 lt1 caprice/camaro or later year chev blazer for emissions ...the ecm signals to the orig belt driven pump's ''air control valve'' are fed to a relay to turn the elec pump on/off as needed (the belt drive pump is afull time drag and ''vents overboard'' when not needed)...the elec pump may be mounted underhood or elsewhere (there is a huge void above the right muffler) and a hose (3/4'' vinyl garden hose is satisfactory) run forward to the diverting valve (do not subject vinyl hose to elevated temp)...intake air to the elec pump should have a filter...the elec pump weighs abt 3 lb vs 9 lb for the belt driven pump/bracket
From: What do I know anyway? I'm just a 50 year old No0b
Originally Posted by 90Z51
Just make sure that if you pull all of the AIR stuff out you hook up your fuel pressure regulator. Use a little piece of tube to connect the vacuum port on your intake to the fuel pressure regulator. If not the regulator will be putting out max fuel pressure all the time.
My '89 has a short piece of vacuum line from the regulator to the plenum. I removed it on purpose over a year ago so I will get maximum pressure all the time.