Starts then dies immediately UNLESS gassed
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 702
Likes: 6
From: North Vancouver BC
Originally Posted by elefkow
ALL of the above AND check for a clogged fuel filter.
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
I believe your problem is the IAC. Also check the TPS voltage. I don't believe the EGR is at fault.
IAC is IDLE Air Control. As long as the throttle plates are closed the IAC helps contol the air entering the intake and is controled by the ECM. If it is cabon filled it will not work properly and will not throw a code. Take the TB off and the IAC out and clean them both with throttle body cleaner. Install the IAC with the tip of the pintle no further than 1 1/8" from the flange. Make sure the TB and IAC gaskets are good or replace.
The TPS sends voltage to the ECM according to the throttle blade postion. It should be .54v at closed throttle blade and 4v+ at WOT blades.
The EGR is not active at idle or WOT. Although there could be a vac leak. The solenoid is grounded frequently by the ECM when accelerating or cruising.
IAC is IDLE Air Control. As long as the throttle plates are closed the IAC helps contol the air entering the intake and is controled by the ECM. If it is cabon filled it will not work properly and will not throw a code. Take the TB off and the IAC out and clean them both with throttle body cleaner. Install the IAC with the tip of the pintle no further than 1 1/8" from the flange. Make sure the TB and IAC gaskets are good or replace.
The TPS sends voltage to the ECM according to the throttle blade postion. It should be .54v at closed throttle blade and 4v+ at WOT blades.
The EGR is not active at idle or WOT. Although there could be a vac leak. The solenoid is grounded frequently by the ECM when accelerating or cruising.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,032
Likes: 4
Originally Posted by RRT vette
The EGR is not active at idle or WOT.
My EGR solenoid is acting like its getting throttle all the time. The manual states that in that situation, if the car is able to idle, it will idle like crap (although it phrases it a little nicer).
EDIT::::
page 6e3-118 (at the bottom) lists symptons, and 121 is the flow chart
Last edited by mikey whipreck; Oct 11, 2006 at 05:58 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,032
Likes: 4
Originally Posted by RRT vette
I guess if the solenoid was malfunctioning it could cause a problem at idle, but would usually let you know with a code. I'll read that.
It's something I didnt' realize until about a week ago... hell, 2 weeks ago I didn't even know what an EGR solenoid was. I believe Vader86 helped me out with that.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,978
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio Texas
My car started to do this one day; would not idle. Check your "coolant temprature sensor" in the front of the intake manifold. My connector was bad, and it wasn't making good contact. I was getting a code "34" and I replaced my MAF needlessly. ( Well, It was 20 yrs old)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
Originally Posted by Curveit
My car started to do this one day; would not idle. Check your "coolant temprature sensor" in the front of the intake manifold. My connector was bad, and it wasn't making good contact. I was getting a code "34" and I replaced my MAF needlessly. ( Well, It was 20 yrs old)
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
Great to hear. Remember when you turn the minimal idle screw (I assume you mean the screw on the drivers side of the TB) you have to recheck the TPS voltage because when the blades are moved so is the TPS voltage. You may need to set the minimal idle now. Vader86 has a website in his profile that explains it or look HERE.
Also I wouldn't hesitate to still remove the TB and IAC for a good cleaning.
Also I wouldn't hesitate to still remove the TB and IAC for a good cleaning.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 702
Likes: 6
From: North Vancouver BC
Originally Posted by RRT vette
Great to hear. Remember when you turn the minimal idle screw (I assume you mean the screw on the drivers side of the TB) you have to recheck the TPS voltage because when the blades are moved so is the TPS voltage. You may need to set the minimal idle now. Vader86 has a website in his profile that explains it or look HERE.
Also I wouldn't hesitate to still remove the TB and IAC for a good cleaning.
Also I wouldn't hesitate to still remove the TB and IAC for a good cleaning.
I followed the FSM procedure with all the steps for minimum idle adjustment, so should be good.
Short version of all this is that while I was hunting for the cause of my post-tuneup miss/stutter, I was manually moving/holding the throttle mechanism a lot while peering into the engine. Only thing I can come up with is that I must have tweaked something there such that the idle screw(which had never been touched in 19 years) needed to be screwed in a bit for minimum idle to not sink too low.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,110
Likes: 0
From: JUPITER FLORIDA
I had this same problem and the maf unplugging test didnt work but when I actually replaced the maf it started right up.
One thing would try if you havent already is just unhook the negative terminal to the battery, let it sit more a couple minutes, reconnect it and try to start it again. That actually works somtimes.
My guess is somewhere with the maf or the tps. Thats where I was looking when I was fixing my prob.
One thing would try if you havent already is just unhook the negative terminal to the battery, let it sit more a couple minutes, reconnect it and try to start it again. That actually works somtimes.
My guess is somewhere with the maf or the tps. Thats where I was looking when I was fixing my prob.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 702
Likes: 6
From: North Vancouver BC
Originally Posted by mikey whipreck
Good to hear. Easy and free fix 
