Broken exhaust stud removal problem
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 60
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From: Overland Park KS... Car: Stock 95 Coupe
Broken exhaust stud removal problem
I am in the process of reinstalling my transmission and I have come across a problem. The exhaust studs that connect the down tube/cat tube were rusted solid. I ended up breaking all 3 off. Luckily there was enough stud left to get a pair of vice grips on. I was able to remove 2 with little problems but one of them will not come out.
I have so far tried...
soaking in heat valve rust killer for days
applying anti seize
torching the bolt and flange until cherry red
and all of the above in various orders while moving the stud with vice grips back and forth.
I have managed to move the stud loosely about 1/32nd of a turn back and forth but it locks hard like it is jamming going clockwise or counter clockwise.
I was wondering if anyone else has any other tricks up their sleeves?
It is tight quarters but I might be able to get a tap in there if I have to.
I have so far tried...
soaking in heat valve rust killer for days
applying anti seize
torching the bolt and flange until cherry red
and all of the above in various orders while moving the stud with vice grips back and forth.
I have managed to move the stud loosely about 1/32nd of a turn back and forth but it locks hard like it is jamming going clockwise or counter clockwise.
I was wondering if anyone else has any other tricks up their sleeves?
It is tight quarters but I might be able to get a tap in there if I have to.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: Downers Grove IL
tm2k,
Lisle automotive tools makes a specific "stud and bolt' remover. It is available from Sears and auto parts stores that carry the Lisle products for about $35. I just used this tool remove the studs you are having problems with. ( I have a 91 L98) It will require at minimum about 1/2 inch of stud to get the tool on. You have to hamer on the removal tool and use a socket to twist off the stud very carefully. Make sure that the tool is on the stud with about 3/8 of an inch grip on the threads of the stud or better before you twist. When you twist do this carefully using a back and forth motion to lossen the stud. If it works it will come out clean.
Napa has replacement studs, in varying lenghts get the longest they have.
If this does not work, I would recommend removing the manifold and doing the drilling and tapping correctly. This may be the opportunity you have been look for to go to long tubes, but if the tool works it will be the cheap way out.
Good luck, Polo.
Lisle automotive tools makes a specific "stud and bolt' remover. It is available from Sears and auto parts stores that carry the Lisle products for about $35. I just used this tool remove the studs you are having problems with. ( I have a 91 L98) It will require at minimum about 1/2 inch of stud to get the tool on. You have to hamer on the removal tool and use a socket to twist off the stud very carefully. Make sure that the tool is on the stud with about 3/8 of an inch grip on the threads of the stud or better before you twist. When you twist do this carefully using a back and forth motion to lossen the stud. If it works it will come out clean.
Napa has replacement studs, in varying lenghts get the longest they have.
If this does not work, I would recommend removing the manifold and doing the drilling and tapping correctly. This may be the opportunity you have been look for to go to long tubes, but if the tool works it will be the cheap way out.
Good luck, Polo.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 505
Likes: 1
From: Guntersville Alabama
I drilled out the old studs and re-tapped the holes with the manifolds still attached to the engine. Used a slightly smaller drill than the tap drill for the metric thread. I then used a small hammer and small chisel to break as much of the stud at the entrance to facilitate the starting of tap so it picks up the existing threads. I also had to use automotive quality metric tap. These taps are not adequate for this kind of work. Either order a quality tap or use quality 3/8-16 to start the first 3 threads and follow up with the metric tap. This technic only works if you can acurrately center punch the broken studs, also the broken studs need to ground flush with the manifold flange. Hope this helps.
93cruiser
93cruiser
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 14,130
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Cruise-In II Veteran
When the studs snapped off on mine I took the exhaust manifold off and brought it to my local muffler shop and they torched them out and replaced the studs for less than 8 bucks.
Saved me alot of time and grief..had to buy a new gasket for the manifold but wasnt too bad.I also bought stainless steel nuts for the 3 studs and they never rust-welded themselves on there ever again.Came off again easy when I needed to drop the front Y pipe down for another job.
Saved me alot of time and grief..had to buy a new gasket for the manifold but wasnt too bad.I also bought stainless steel nuts for the 3 studs and they never rust-welded themselves on there ever again.Came off again easy when I needed to drop the front Y pipe down for another job.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 60
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From: Overland Park KS... Car: Stock 95 Coupe
Well I started to work on the stud this afternoon and it was just not coming loose. I cut the stud off with a cut off tool right at the manifold and drilled the manifold and tapped it. I had the car on a lift at work so it was not that bad at all. Thanks for all the help guys, I feel better knowing that I am not to only one with broken stud problems.
