Ok I have a 95 LT1 Corvette Auto with 102k miles on the stock motor... My mods are as followed: Vortex Rammer Cold Air, Granetelli Mass Air,52mm BBK Throttle Body, Hypertech power tuning module, Borla Exhaust.... Now heres my ? With all of that am I able to run nitrous on my car? And what shot if so? I dont want it to blow my motor either

 

All looks ok except i'm not sure about running the hypertech unit with N2O. I think the hypertech programer adds timing, with nitrous this would be bad. Not 100% sure but I'm sure someone here will have better info. I ran 100 shot on my 86 with no problems and some people have been able to run 150+. I would run a 100 shot and to be safe.

 

Ok kewl, I dont have the programmer I have this: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

DO NOT USE nitrous with that programmer. It DOES advance timing and you don't want that. I would remove the program or whatever that thing does and you should be good to go up to 100shot with 93 octane (race fuel 50/50 mix to be safe). Anything over that and you need to pull timing. Some guys like to start pulling timing after 50shot but that's up to you. If you run 87 octane then I would pull after 50 as well.

 

Yeah its a daily driver for me and I usually use 87 octane in it, and sometimes 93... So I would have to pull timing at a 50 shot of nitrous? I wanna go for 100 shot all day but that means 93 octane and mixing with race fuel right 50/50? What would be a good Nitrous System to get?

 

100 shot will mean 93 octane and some will say 2 degrees of timing retard. Personally, I will be running a 100shot with a 93/104 octane mix. Don't want to pull timing for a weekend driver and limited N2O usage. But that's me. A 'good system' depends on $$ and what options you want. Do a search and you'll find plenty of opinions. I think zex offers a good simple kit for people new to nitrous.

 

They're ideal for those who do not plan on making any other modifications,this say's it all!!!
You need a fuel presure regulator from Aeromotive.
You pull 1 1/2 degrees for every 50 HP of nitrous.
You will need a 6al MSD box and the retard box.I use the dial retard and they say it is not recomended.
I use the Barry Grant system.
For me it works the best.I would also get the LT4 knock module and install it in your computer.I think they are about $29.00 or so.
Takes about 15 min to install if you have never done one.

 

Ok that sounds pretty good Im willing to spend around 500 bucks or so... Plus all the essentials to go with it like the Msd 6al, and retard box Might I ask what the knock module does?

 

The LT4 knock module is less sensitive than the LT1 knock module. The knock module works with the knock sensors. It senses frequencies that are created when knock/pinging/detonation occurs. When this happens additional timing is pulled to prevent knock from occurring. This is a good thing. An LT4 knock module is recommended when adding headers, noisy exhaust, or roller rockers. Being less sensitive it won't detect false knock as easily. I don't see why you would need it for the N2O.

Pulling timing is important when using nitrous. I guess some don't if using race fuel. Personally I wouldn't chance it. Instead of using an MSD box I have two custom tunes for my PCM. One has the timing pulled for the nitrous. The other tune is optimized for no nitrous. It takes a laptop, software, cable, and about 3 minutes to switch tunes. With the nitrous tune I'm probably loosing around 7 HP when not spraying. The MSD box should also work fine if you decide to go that route. I went with the ZEX 125 shot because it's one of the easiest kits out there. Looking back I should have probably gone with another brand, wet kit. That's because after the rebuild I would like to spray a much bigger shot. With my ZEX kit a new fuel pressure regulator was not necessary. It comes with an in-line booster pump to help out the fuel pump. I did upgrade the injectors. It may not be necessary but I was told it was a good idea because the stock injectors would start approaching their limit. You will also need colder spark plugs that are gapped correctly for nitrous. A few companies that make these are autolite, NGK, and ZEX. You may also want to pick up a bottle heater to keep the pressure up. When you hit the nitrous with low pressure it doesn't work well. If you want to legally run at the track you will need a blow out tube. This directs the N20 outside the car if the seal breaks. You will also need a pressure gage. I have one on the bottle but am now going to purchase an electrical gage for the A pillar. I can reach around and open the bottle from the drivers seat in my vert. They sell a remote bottle openers if it's mounted too far to the rear. You should only open the bottle when you are ready to use it. Some other things you may need to add depending on the kit or setup are WOT switch and rev limiter. The kits alone are cheap but when you add up all the extras it gets expensive. I would do a lot of research first. I have about $1700 in N20 and the related extras and I'm not done yet. Bottle refills are about $42 and it lasts an average of about 2 minutes. Is it worth it? Hell Yeah!

Edit: I'm not exactly sure how the Granatelli MAF works but I would check to see if it can be used with the nitrous. I'm sure someone else will answer.

 

I have a Granatelli MAF on mine and it works without any problem.
Invest in the LT4 knock module no matter what anyone says.
I have watched my knock counts with the LT1 module and the LT4 and
the differance can cost you a motor.Try over 39 thousand plus at times .

 

How exactly is an LT1 module going to cost you a motor, when it is more sensitive to knock than the LT4?

The LT4 module is specifically tuned to not listen to roller rockers. Any noise that nitrous makes that the LT4km ignores, is real knock. If that's happening then the LT4km is the one that may cost you an engine.

 

 

Yep brain fart.
When I am running my Data Master ,I see the high knock counts and want to lower it to a more reasonable rate , or realestic to what I think is realy going on in the motor.The LT4 module does that.
I hate it when these cars retard the timing all the time.

 

Dump the Hypertech tuner... "tuners" and N20 do not get along (timing issues).

You can safely run up to a 100 shot without pulling timing, but you must use 93 octane (you should anyway). Adding an MSD or other aftermarket ignition box is not absolutely necessary unless and until you're going north of 125 on the nitrous shot (not recommended on a 100K+ engine anyway). An adjustable RPM window switch is highly recommended, and I consider them mandatory in a manual trans application.

Also, a wet kit is highly preferable over a dry kit (just my opinion after 25 years of using nitrous on various vehicles).

I'll PM you some other info.