Initial opinion on L98 underdrive pulley setup.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 28
From: Baltimore MD
Initial opinion on L98 underdrive pulley setup.
The car runs at the same cool temps it has since I bought the car, and the charging system works fine. At warm idle w/headlights on, according to the digital dash, volt meter shows 14.3 volts. It was 14.4 volts with stock pulley. Either is above and beyone what is needed to maintain battery voltage and easily supply the car's needs.
Aside from being a mild PITA to get to the bolts that hold it onto the balancer, it was an easy swap. Car "seems" to rev a little quicker as well. I bought mine second hand, but still new and un-used for about 20 bucks less than MAD sells them for, so IMHO it was a worthwhile mod for my car.
If my new AS&M runners ever show up, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Ported plenum, AS&M Big Tube runners and ported Edelbrock High Flo base are next mods....
Last edited by rel3rd; Oct 21, 2006 at 12:20 AM.
Pro
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 702
Likes: 6
From: North Vancouver BC
Originally Posted by rel3rd
The car runs at the same cool temps it has since I bought the car, and the charging system works fine. At warm idle w/headlights on, according to the digital dash, volt meter shows 14.3 volts. It was 14.4 volts with stock pulley. Either is above and beyone what is needed to maintain battery voltage and easily supply the car's needs.
Aside from being a mild PITA to get to the bolts that hold it onto the balancer, it was an easy swap. Car "seems" to rev a little quicker as well. I bought mine second hand, but still new and un-used for about 20 bucks less than MAD sells them for, so IMHO it was a worthwhile mod for my car.
If my new AS&M runners ever show up, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Ported plenum, AS&M Big Tube runners and ported Edelbrock High Flo base are next mods....
Going to do this fairly soon...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 28
From: Baltimore MD
Originally Posted by 65Z01
Did you also do the overdrive alt pulley??
I did replace the alternator a few weeks after buying the car...maybe it's "beefed up" or something since they are known to fail?
Pro
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 702
Likes: 6
From: North Vancouver BC
Originally Posted by rel3rd
No sir. Didn't need it. I "may" have to add that after I finish up the A4 conversion since the car will no doubt idle lower when it's in Drive. For right now, with headlights, radio, and heater fan on, the lowest I've seen the voltmeter was 13.8, which is still plenty high enough. Car idles at 750-780 rpm's right now with the 4+3 tranny still in place.
I did replace the alternator a few weeks after buying the car...maybe it's "beefed up" or something since they are known to fail?
I did replace the alternator a few weeks after buying the car...maybe it's "beefed up" or something since they are known to fail?
Or a different one?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 28
From: Baltimore MD
hmmm. Good question.
Mine is the one that Mid America Design sells. I bought it off of Ebay, new in the box, but that's where it came from.
I have belt number too. They want like $50 for a belt...any parts store has tham for just over half of that price.
This is copy/pasted from another thread on underdrive pullies:
Mine is the one that Mid America Design sells. I bought it off of Ebay, new in the box, but that's where it came from.
I have belt number too. They want like $50 for a belt...any parts store has tham for just over half of that price.
This is copy/pasted from another thread on underdrive pullies:
Originally Posted by rel3rd
The belt number for Mid America underdrive crank pulley only is:
DAYCO 5060865 or
GATES K060865
Obviously, if you add the smaller (OVERdriven) alternator pulley, this number may not be correct any longer. My car charges fine without it, but I have stick car that idles slightly higher than an auto car does in drive.
DAYCO 5060865 or
GATES K060865
Obviously, if you add the smaller (OVERdriven) alternator pulley, this number may not be correct any longer. My car charges fine without it, but I have stick car that idles slightly higher than an auto car does in drive.
Last edited by rel3rd; Dec 8, 2006 at 08:36 PM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Every 2027 Corvette Engine Explained
Joe Kucinski
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Verdad Gallardo
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 28
From: Baltimore MD
Originally Posted by SunCr
Be sure to retest when the ambient is 90 degrees or better.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,870
Likes: 25
From: Long Island, NY
I have the ASP Crank pulley.
It has helped me get quicker ETs.
The downside I have is that there is a small draw at night with the lights and AC on. The volts are at about 13.0 at idle.
Vic
It has helped me get quicker ETs.
The downside I have is that there is a small draw at night with the lights and AC on. The volts are at about 13.0 at idle.
Vic
Pro
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 702
Likes: 6
From: North Vancouver BC
Originally Posted by Vic'89
I have the ASP Crank pulley.
It has helped me get quicker ETs.
The downside I have is that there is a small draw at night with the lights and AC on. The volts are at about 13.0 at idle.
Vic
It has helped me get quicker ETs.
The downside I have is that there is a small draw at night with the lights and AC on. The volts are at about 13.0 at idle.
Vic
