I disabled the VATS on my 1989 Trans Am in about ten minutes. It took longer to remove the underdash panel than it did to locate the two-wire lead and pop in the $25 module my local locksmith sold me. Best thing I ever did.

 

on my 89, I had to replace the lock cylinder. But until I had a chance too, I used the bypass resistor. And the bypass resistor confirmed it was the lock cylinder. But I still carry the bypass resistor just in case.

On my 96 C4, and other GM vechiles, I have not had a VATs failure.

I would never install an aftermarket alarm. in fact I dreed them. They cause more no start issues than a VATs ever could. The installation is 1/2 the problem, and the false alarms are even more of a hassle.

 

alarms and false tripping are so common today that they are roundly ignored by everyone.... only good for burning your car up when they malfunction.

vats is one of those ''nobody-will-admit-it-was-their-idea'' things...bad idea to start with, gets worse with age....it IS going to fail and cause you trouble, why wait for that ???

some anti-theft provision is a good idea, choose from dozens or create your own, the less obvious the better, the simpler the better (less chance for failure)... just remember to arm it !!

 

Question... why did you eventually replace the lock cylinder after you already had it bypassed? How much did the whole thing cost you, how much time did it take? did you do it yourself, or have someone replace it for you?

2nd question. if this system is so dependable, why do you still carry the bypass with you "just in case" ?

The 1st question I am truely curious about so that I could possibly use that info for the write up in case someone wants to give that a go.

 

Exactly. Just make your own starter kill switch. Wire a switch inline with the resistor bypass. Same thing as the lock/key thing anyway, and you can choose to arm or disarm it at will. or wire one right into the starter relay, etc.

You do realize that if someone really wanted to, they just have to bust the window out (vats won't know the difference between the window being busted out and started vs if someone got in the car and locked the door, then started)... then rip the hush panel out (pretty simple) then take ther collection of 15 bypass chips they too bought from any corvette store and try them one by one until they find the correct one and drive off with your car anyway.

Really, its just a false sense of security... just like a lock on your house... they don't call it "breaking in" for nothing. That lock isn't going to do anything when you have a breakable window right next to the front door.

Since the whole VATS system is silent anyway, a thief has all the time in the world to sit there and try resistor bypasses until he gets the right one. Then what's to stop him once its started and he drives away?

I could think of many ways to steal my own car without worrying about it not starting, or VATS, etc. If I can think of several ways, I am sure a seasoned skilled professional thief has 100 times as many ways to steal it than I every thought about preventing.

 

If you use the fixed resistor in place of the contacts in the lock cylinder, you have effectively bypassed VATS and you are done. Also, the person I bought my 87 vette from ordered a 90 vette and about a year later came out of work to find the driver window busted and the column busted but the 90 vette hadn't moved an inch. If you want no protection against the most common method for stealing your car, then bypass your VATS, but I wish you wouldn't because your stupidity increases my auto insurance rates! Again, let me say this, if you have trouble with VATS, fix it right away instead of getting stranded over and over and then getting so upset about it that you disable VATS. I fixed my VATS problem the first time it stranded me about six years ago and I haven't had a problem since and if it strands me, I will fix it again. If your headlight motor/s fail, are you going to use the **** to run it up and then leave it open all the time? Keep your car in good repair, if you take care of your car, your car will take care of you!!!!!!!!!
How many pounds of duct tape do you have on your vette?

 

I'm with jfb on this one. The antitheft system works. I know from experience. The VATS system has saved at least one of my Chevys from going on joy rides or to the chop shop.

 

jfb - If you have some good information on how to replace the failing lock components, please let us know. There is no use arguing how bad it is to bypass the system when you can't seem to tell anyone how to replace the parts being bypased.

Constructive critism still welcome, I am done arguing with anyone why you would want to bypass it. It's quite obvious. If you want to fix it, then so be it, but since I don't have that information on hand yet, then this is not the write up to be reading.

 

See larryfs's post 13 posts up!

 

your questions are so sarcasic it's not even worth repsonding too.
but for others that are following this thread and would like to replace the lock cylinder here it is............
you disassemble the column down to the lock cylinder, and you carefully snake the new wires down the column. and you need new keys. you need a plate depressor to get the retainer ring out. you really need proper steering column tools, and the factory manual. I did it a long time ago so details are scarce. you just need patience when snaking the wires down the column. steering column work is what seperates the men from the boys.

and yes, I still carry the bypass resistor, just like I carry an air pump, and a tire plug kit. I also carry a plyers so I can pull the nail out of the tire before I plug it.

also the new lock cylinders seem to have better wires. the orginal were white, and the replacement was yellow. maybe it'll be less prone to breaking..................

The problem with internet forums like this. One guy says, HEY, lets bypass the VATS, and the other 100,000 people here all follow like a bunch of sheep.

go ahead, bypass your vats, and someone will pop a screw driver though your steering column and you'll have no more problems.

 

Thanks for the info and extra notes on your lock replacement. I am going to do some more research on this and add it to another section for "vats repair" also for all you guys that want to go ahead and repair it.


Did you use any drawings or anything for taking the column apart, or is it kind of self explanitory and easy to do? I only ask because I have never looked at mine beyond where it dissapears into the dash. My AllDataPro info only has info on taking the column apart, and not really much on getting the lock out.

Does anyone know if any MAJOR diffences between the 86-89 and 90-96 steering columns, or once you get the dash and hush panels apart, are they basically the same looking part?

 

I just finished looking up a bunch of part numbers and tried finding most of this stuff. It's not as expensive as I first though, and really rather cheap if you guys wish to keep your VATS system intact.


Check out the site. I cleaned it up just a little bit.

Included on EACH of the 3 sections is both REPAIR and Removal information. Repair info will be shown in the BLUE areas, Removal info will be shown in RED.

http://joestradingpost.com/vats

I still think VATS is retarded, BUT I will not let that reflect this writeup.

I am going to keep it as neutral as possible as to my own opinions so that this will benefit EVERYBODY.

Vats Guys, let me know what you think of the added info. If you know of more sources for the parts I mentioned (or if there is a major important part I left out), please let me know so I can get it added

 

Nice!

 

What has happened to the youth today.

 

10-26-06 Changes/Additions
1 - VATS/Anti Theft diagram added to main page
2 - Lock Cylinder basic diagram added to Passkey Replacement/Bypass page


I plan to remove the lock myself this weekend if the weather is good and take lots of pics. I also plan to get pics of my bypass resistors so you will all know exactly what you will be looking at if you want to bypass it.

 

"Note: I do not fully understand this portion of the system yet and would appreciate some help in creating a write up on exactly where these signals come from. Is this required if the Starter Enable Relay is bypassed?"

The VATS module sends two signals - one to the starter relay to enable the starter motor to crank and the other to allow the injectors to fire at the ECU. If you bypass the VATS system at the ignition switch via a resistor than the VATS control module is fooled into believing that the ignition switch is in the ignition and allows for both the engine to crank and the injectors to fire.

To answer your question yes if only the starter enable relay is bypassed the engine will crank, but the VATS module will still not allow the injectors to fire. The reason for this is to prevent push starting the car as a means to bypassing VATS. If bypassing the start enable relay was all it took to bypass VATS than someone could break the steering wheel lock and just push start the car (manual tranny of course but VATS in both auto and manual tranny vettes work the same way).

Hope this helps,

 

its becoming much clearer... thanks for the info

so... if I bypass the ignition and the start relay, BUT the vats module ITSELF was still a problem, then it would be the vats module that would still be sending a signal to the ecu not to fire the injectors... thus the reason to make the sim chip/reprogram the ecu?

I think I get it all clearly now



I just want to better understand the entire system myself so I can better help those having issues with it...

SO... now that I understand how to bypass it all, and what it all means...
here is another scenario... the Replacement scenario:
what if someone replaced their lock cylinder/keys, replaced the start enable relay....but was STILL having VATS issues... what would need to be replaced at that point? the VATS module itself?

 

I have been studying the charging and starting systems of the 87 Vette for some days now. I need to integrate the 1996 LT1 PSM/Engine/Trans with the car harness, so it's been an exersize in learning.

The bypass is the best solution for me right now... I don't have a way of directing the VATS to integrate with the PCM so screw it. I will install an aftermarket alarm/keyless entry/immoblizer at some future point. Besides, the VATS had been bypassed at some point in the past.

Thanks for the write up. You confirmed my fix for getting around it. I will solder and heat shrink the connection! I will send you a finished pic!

As for my personal opinion, most C4s are not going to be the target of car theives... it just ain't happening.

 

most folks control elec circuits by NOT putting power into a device until it is active...GM often does NOT design their circuits this way, they put power into a device and complete the ground connection to activate...there are reasons, too much ''theory'' for here, just always remember it is done that way on many circuits on your vette.

the ecm ''generates'' the signal and sends signal to the vats module... the vats module ''grounds'' that signal to let the ecm know that vats is happy with the ign key resistor value... a simple ground switch would have been too ez to bypass, in the minds (?) of the designers, so the ground MUST oscillate at abt 30 Hz for the ecm to be happy (fooled the thieves for at least 30 seconds with the 30 hz thing)...it is ''nice'' to know if the ecm is ''happy'' with its oscillating ground--a test connection point on the signal wire to the ecm and a convenient ground point will allow you to see the ''apparent'' voltage that the ecm signal is at--if correct this will be 2.5-3.0 vdc and if 5.0vdc (nominal) or ''0'' vdc, the ecm will not fire the injectors

 

eh, i have my personal opinion on VATS too which i've shared loudly already, but for this writeup im trying to appease to everyone's needs.

I have the LTx schematics for the VATS/AntiTheft system I will get posted up this weekend if you want to see them. It won't be of much use for the writeup, but perhaps someone might find something of use for the late C4s that will be useful, or might be of use for your application. I did see a few similarities, wire names are different as are the colors, the system is a little different looking, etc. It's all clear on the drawings, but I don't know what a lot of it means. Its totally diffferent looking than the early C4 schematics. I'll try and get that stuff up late tonight or this weekend


The pics would be a great addition, Thanks!