Building a "compromised" car
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 800
Likes: 3
From: Port Orange FL
Building a "compromised" car
I am in the process of picking up an 87 very inexpensively that is a bit on the rough side. I want to build this car into a track toy that I can use to play with in several different venues. I would like to be able to take it to the dragstrip, the local autocross, and to the top speed runs in N.C. I have a 400 CI AFR 210 headed monster to stuff between the wheel wells to supply the go. I understand that by building the car to be able to compete in several events I will not be able to make it a true star in any one of them but I dont really care too much about that. The purpose of building it is just to have fun pounding on it, not necessarily to bring home a wall full of trophys.
So what type of things should I consider not doing while building it? IE what modifications that are done to the car to make it extremely competitive in one venue make it unuseable in another? Example as a real basic, obviously I am not going to remove the sway bar to make it a marginally better drag racer because that would make it an absolutely horrible autocrosser.
Suggestions or things I should consider?
Thanks
Roy
So what type of things should I consider not doing while building it? IE what modifications that are done to the car to make it extremely competitive in one venue make it unuseable in another? Example as a real basic, obviously I am not going to remove the sway bar to make it a marginally better drag racer because that would make it an absolutely horrible autocrosser.
Suggestions or things I should consider?
Thanks
Roy
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
Originally Posted by Fastmax32168
I want to build this car into a track toy that I can use to play with in
several different venues. I would like to be able to take it to the
dragstrip, the local autocross, and to the top speed runs in N.C.
several different venues. I would like to be able to take it to the
dragstrip, the local autocross, and to the top speed runs in N.C.
been to focus on durability modifications for these activities and let
the requirements for the other events take a back seat. I am
thinking about ensuring adequate lubrication & cooling (fluids & brakes).
Safety gear appropriate to the usage and before performance gear.
.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 13,348
Likes: 233
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
Since you are asking the peanut gallery, it's clear you don't know the questions, let alone the answers, yourself...so, I'd just get the car running, the new motor in it, the fluids changed, the cooling system up to par, the brakes working properly, and start competing.
The mods will come as you see the need for them.
I.e.: You're a smart boy, you'll figure it out at the appropriate times.
Larry
code5coupe
The mods will come as you see the need for them.
I.e.: You're a smart boy, you'll figure it out at the appropriate times.
Larry
code5coupe
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,564
Likes: 109
From: Austin Texas
Most of the stuff is transferable...
Roll bar for safety works in any venue
You can remove the front sway bar easily for drags. Change out shocks and you are ready to go.
Since you plan on rolling it fast down the highway in a sanctioned ORR event, you MIGHT need to worry about changing out the rear for better final drive ratios. Depends on what you want to run at the 1/4 and Autocrosses. The 4:10/4:11 ratios are good for acceleration, but the pits when you want to run top-end. I've collected an extra bat-wing with D44 so I can swap out the entire rear without cracking the case.
Also, You might want to check what the ratios are on the steering box. Since mine is a Z07, they came with a quick-ratio steering box beacuse the car was intended to be autocrossed. For ORR runs, the steering is too twitchy, so I'll need to swap out the box to slow it down a bit.
The normal stuff other than that...oil coolers (trans and engine), power steering cooler (autoX is tough on the steering system), good AL radiator, and J55 brakes (minimum for autocross and high-speed runs).
Also can't recommend enough to get a Canton Road Race pan...good insurance for sure. An AccuSump in addition to the Canton pan is even better
Roll bar for safety works in any venue
You can remove the front sway bar easily for drags. Change out shocks and you are ready to go.
Since you plan on rolling it fast down the highway in a sanctioned ORR event, you MIGHT need to worry about changing out the rear for better final drive ratios. Depends on what you want to run at the 1/4 and Autocrosses. The 4:10/4:11 ratios are good for acceleration, but the pits when you want to run top-end. I've collected an extra bat-wing with D44 so I can swap out the entire rear without cracking the case.
Also, You might want to check what the ratios are on the steering box. Since mine is a Z07, they came with a quick-ratio steering box beacuse the car was intended to be autocrossed. For ORR runs, the steering is too twitchy, so I'll need to swap out the box to slow it down a bit.
The normal stuff other than that...oil coolers (trans and engine), power steering cooler (autoX is tough on the steering system), good AL radiator, and J55 brakes (minimum for autocross and high-speed runs).
Also can't recommend enough to get a Canton Road Race pan...good insurance for sure. An AccuSump in addition to the Canton pan is even better
Last edited by 1991Z07; Oct 26, 2006 at 03:17 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 763
Likes: 0
From: pa
the two simplest places to start would be a quality{read expensive} set of adjusible shocks and a few complete rear ends, with whatever ratios you thik will get the job done. this is how i started out in the 60s and 70s with c2s and c3s. it was my daily driver , so i couldnt get to crazy. later things changed. depends on how compettive you want to be.......and how well you drive.
