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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 11:20 PM
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Default Stroker question

I just finished assembly of my short block today. I had to grind a tiny bit off the #2 and #6 rod where they were hitting the cam lobe. I didn't have to remove enough to have any drastic effects on balancing. I have plenty of clearance now but I've been wondering if I would have been better off with a cam with different lobe angles. Mine is a 110* separation, would a 114* have been better?
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 11:22 PM
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The easiest way to make a cam fit better is to order it ground on a smaller base circle.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 11:31 PM
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Hi Pete, I had thought of that but I got over .050 clearance just by taking the very edge of the rod right by the bolt off so I'm okay but was just wondering what could have eliminated any grinding. I hate to change cams, my tune is working perfectly with the Comp Cam I have, thanks to ski_dwn_it.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 11:42 PM
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It sounds like you were pretty lucky. I had to grind the nutz off most of my rod bolts to get mine to work. Having to a small amount of grinding on 2 bolts is minor. The amount of grinding I have to do for Beppe's 396 is insane. Every time I think I have it licked, something else hits
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 11:51 PM
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I used what I hear is a new item from ARP, they are rod bolts specifically for the 383 and are already clearanced. I had absolutely no issues with the bolts but I had to take the edge off the rod down even with the head of the rod bolt to get my clearance. I checked all 8 with white grease and all have plenty of clearance now.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 11:56 PM
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As I mentioned in the pm, .050-.060 is the rule of thumb, but I have run them as tight as .030 and did not have trouble. My first stroker build used a non stroker, crower rod. I worked each rod on the belt sander for a long time. I will use stroker rods next time.
Disclaimer: I have only run .030 because I had to. I never felt comfortable that they were that close.
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 12:00 AM
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I can see why that would make you nervous, that's why I made sure I went for at least .050 when I ground off the rods. Why do we do this to ourselves??
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 07:22 AM
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For my 396 all I had to gring on was the block at the pan rails, and the bottom of the cylinders. I do have a small base cam.
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Midnight 85
I'm okay but was just wondering what could have eliminated any grinding.
Proper connecting rods. No 383 should have to use a reduced base circle camshaft for rod clearance. Chevy made a 3.75" stroke crank fit within those same confines.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
It sounds like you were pretty lucky. I had to grind the nutz off most of my rod bolts to get mine to work. Having to a small amount of grinding on 2 bolts is minor. The amount of grinding I have to do for Beppe's 396 is insane. Every time I think I have it licked, something else hits
i have a .900 base cam in my 396, along with lunati billet rods a think i had like .150 clearance. might have been more.
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Proper connecting rods. No 383 should have to use a reduced base circle camshaft for rod clearance. Chevy made a 3.75" stroke crank fit within those same confines.

RACE ON!!!
The aftermarket H-beam rods clear with no problem. They have bolts that go in from the bottom, as opposed to bolts that go in from the top with nuts on the bottom.
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 05:24 PM
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The good connecting rods with cap bolts move the clearance issues to the block. No free lunch with a stroker build.
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