Modified Shroud - Cold Air
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,705
Likes: 30
From: Chesapeake Beach Maryland
2015 C5 of Year Finalist
Modified Shroud - Cold Air
I was going to post this with the thread on the "Cut Lids", but this isn't really about a cut lid and that topic is about killing me.
But anyway here's my thought and question about an alternative cold air set-up.
I have an SLP Claw, or triple threat, or whatever you want to call the thing with three K&N filters on the end of it.
What I have been thinking about doing for some time now is to cut a hole in the shroud below the filters, and then build a fiberglass box around the filters and air duct. I would use some foam sealing material around the metal duct of the Claw to keep debris out of the engine compartment. I also have a BMAD front air dam, and think this would help bring cooler air into this area at speeds over 35 or 40 mph. Any thoughts about this set up?
TIA
Don Haller
Severn, MD
But anyway here's my thought and question about an alternative cold air set-up.
I have an SLP Claw, or triple threat, or whatever you want to call the thing with three K&N filters on the end of it.
What I have been thinking about doing for some time now is to cut a hole in the shroud below the filters, and then build a fiberglass box around the filters and air duct. I would use some foam sealing material around the metal duct of the Claw to keep debris out of the engine compartment. I also have a BMAD front air dam, and think this would help bring cooler air into this area at speeds over 35 or 40 mph. Any thoughts about this set up?
TIA
Don Haller
Severn, MD
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,524
Likes: 4
From: Hinckley Ohio
Originally Posted by biggrizzly
No opinions 
You guys usually have all kinds of opinions!
You guys usually have all kinds of opinions!
I have the triple claw and...
1) It looks great.....
2) It ends up sucking in hot air from the engine compartment since the factory seals that block hot air are no longer effective with the claw.
3) The size of the claw filter cross section and tubing is effectively identical the the OEM setup, so especially if you have a modded engine you really have not improved things a whole lot...
So I think your idea is a good one......you will be getting cool outside air, much like the rammer setup.....not sure about rain performance?.....at least a moderate ram air effect
I think a little insulation around the tubing would help keep the incoming air cool..
I am thinking about doing something perhaps similiar, would like to use larger filters, but space is a premium...
Good luck....keep us posted on what you do...I know I am interested
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 26,196
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
it sounds like you are making a homemade "bpp vortex ramair" box out of your claw... which many members have stated in the past doesn't do much for them.
cutting the shroud sounds like a cool idea to get that front air coming in, i don't know if making a box would be worth your time though.
Also keep in mind whatever you make may block air that is needed for the radiator below that shroud and may effect cooling.
I am learning as time goes on and reading a lot of this stuff that every single piece of the C4's ,even though we think a lot of it is a bad design, seems to have a purpose that fits tightly into the C4 total puzzle, and anything we do to them may decrease the performance of some other piece of the puzzle.
cutting the shroud sounds like a cool idea to get that front air coming in, i don't know if making a box would be worth your time though.
Also keep in mind whatever you make may block air that is needed for the radiator below that shroud and may effect cooling.
I am learning as time goes on and reading a lot of this stuff that every single piece of the C4's ,even though we think a lot of it is a bad design, seems to have a purpose that fits tightly into the C4 total puzzle, and anything we do to them may decrease the performance of some other piece of the puzzle.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,799
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
Originally Posted by biggrizzly
I was going to post this with the thread on the "Cut Lids", but this isn't really about a cut lid and that topic is about killing me.
But anyway here's my thought and question about an alternative cold air set-up.
I have an SLP Claw, or triple threat, or whatever you want to call the thing with three K&N filters on the end of it.
What I have been thinking about doing for some time now is to cut a hole in the shroud below the filters, and then build a fiberglass box around the filters and air duct. I would use some foam sealing material around the metal duct of the Claw to keep debris out of the engine compartment. I also have a BMAD front air dam, and think this would help bring cooler air into this area at speeds over 35 or 40 mph. Any thoughts about this set up?
TIA
Don Haller
Severn, MD
But anyway here's my thought and question about an alternative cold air set-up.
I have an SLP Claw, or triple threat, or whatever you want to call the thing with three K&N filters on the end of it.
What I have been thinking about doing for some time now is to cut a hole in the shroud below the filters, and then build a fiberglass box around the filters and air duct. I would use some foam sealing material around the metal duct of the Claw to keep debris out of the engine compartment. I also have a BMAD front air dam, and think this would help bring cooler air into this area at speeds over 35 or 40 mph. Any thoughts about this set up?
TIA
Don Haller
Severn, MD
I'm doing the same thing with my '92, and couple with the BMAD I have on it, I should be able to tell if it's a worthwhile project.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,700
Likes: 298
From: Ft. Lauderdale Fl
I also have the "claw". I ran well without it and also well with it. I think we get plenty of air and run very cool (177-179) on the highway at 70mph and 190-197 in heavy traffic in South Florida...
Are you looking to get more air in or to cool down your engine?
Are you looking to get more air in or to cool down your engine?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,705
Likes: 30
From: Chesapeake Beach Maryland
2015 C5 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by elefkow
I also have the "claw". I ran well without it and also well with it. I think we get plenty of air and run very cool (177-179) on the highway at 70mph and 190-197 in heavy traffic in South Florida...
Are you looking to get more air in or to cool down your engine?
Are you looking to get more air in or to cool down your engine?
My car runs cool enough with the BMAD. I don't see how you run 177-179 in Florida unless you have some mods to do that. Tell me more. Aftermarket radiator? I can run my fans all day and still run around 210 to 220 which in my book is just right.
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Pouria Savadkouei
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,524
Likes: 4
From: Hinckley Ohio
Originally Posted by biggrizzly
Cooler air into the air filter elements.
.
.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Crystal Lake IL
I did something similar with the stock set up. I "rigged" it first to see if there would be any difference. I cut the shroud and cut the bottom of the filter housing to flip the filter so it faces down into the radiator cavity. When first done I could feel a little quicker response. This is with a stock filter, so I'm sure if it was a K & N and done better it would make more of a difference. I would like to get a new shroud and start over with the SLP filter lid that is seen in the link. It always seems like something comes up that doesn't allow me to spend extra money though so I still have gotten to it. It has been "rigged" for like 2 years. So as can be seen it has been a pretty long time and I haven't had any problems with it being open, especially water. No problems in heavy down pours. I just make sure I avoid puddles. I would say if you can come up with a way you like, go for it.
http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...46&BIG=21046-1
http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...46&BIG=21046-1
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,700
Likes: 298
From: Ft. Lauderdale Fl
Originally Posted by biggrizzly
Cooler air into the air filter elements.
My car runs cool enough with the BMAD. I don't see how you run 177-179 in Florida unless you have some mods to do that. Tell me more. Aftermarket radiator? I can run my fans all day and still run around 210 to 220 which in my book is just right.
My car runs cool enough with the BMAD. I don't see how you run 177-179 in Florida unless you have some mods to do that. Tell me more. Aftermarket radiator? I can run my fans all day and still run around 210 to 220 which in my book is just right.
1. Removed and cleaned the radiator
2. Replaced both upper and lower radiator hoses
3. Installed a Big Mouth Air Dam
4. New radiator cap
5. New 160 degree thermostat
6. Entire coolant flush and replace with 50/50 Dexcool & distilled
7. Mobil 1 5W30 oil
I'm sure I'm foregetting something. Thats about it. ( T/B bypass)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,178
Likes: 5
From: Daleville Indiana
St. Jude Donor '08
I cut my shroud a few months back to work with the claw. A little more dust on the engine is the only down side. I'm trying to design a box for it now as a winter project.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,705
Likes: 30
From: Chesapeake Beach Maryland
2015 C5 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by elefkow
To get it to run cool down here I make some changes:
1. Removed and cleaned the radiator
2. Replaced both upper and lower radiator hoses
3. Installed a Big Mouth Air Dam
4. New radiator cap
5. New 160 degree thermostat
6. Entire coolant flush and replace with 50/50 Dexcool & distilled
7. Mobil 1 5W30 oil
I'm sure I'm foregetting something. Thats about it. ( T/B bypass)
1. Removed and cleaned the radiator
2. Replaced both upper and lower radiator hoses
3. Installed a Big Mouth Air Dam
4. New radiator cap
5. New 160 degree thermostat
6. Entire coolant flush and replace with 50/50 Dexcool & distilled
7. Mobil 1 5W30 oil
I'm sure I'm foregetting something. Thats about it. ( T/B bypass)
Now I got to make some plans for that box! I'm thinking about fiberglass matt and resin over top of a mold in the desired shape.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,148
Likes: 43
Originally Posted by vetteboy95
I did something similar with the stock set up. I "rigged" it first to see if there would be any difference. I cut the shroud and cut the bottom of the filter housing to flip the filter so it faces down into the radiator cavity. When first done I could feel a little quicker response. This is with a stock filter, so I'm sure if it was a K & N and done better it would make more of a difference. I would like to get a new shroud and start over with the SLP filter lid that is seen in the link. It always seems like something comes up that doesn't allow me to spend extra money though so I still have gotten to it. It has been "rigged" for like 2 years. So as can be seen it has been a pretty long time and I haven't had any problems with it being open, especially water. No problems in heavy down pours. I just make sure I avoid puddles. I would say if you can come up with a way you like, go for it.
http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...46&BIG=21046-1
http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...46&BIG=21046-1
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
What do you guys think of the sealed cold-air intakes that are scoop/ramair type systems vs the ones without scoops?
The scoop puts the intake directly in the path of air flow. It also makes for more restriction if the car isn't moving.
No scoop means the intake is always susceptible to pulling air over the surface of the radiator. I also suspect that the pressure will be less than one with a scoop.
The scoop puts the intake directly in the path of air flow. It also makes for more restriction if the car isn't moving.
No scoop means the intake is always susceptible to pulling air over the surface of the radiator. I also suspect that the pressure will be less than one with a scoop.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,700
Likes: 298
From: Ft. Lauderdale Fl
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
What do you guys think of the sealed cold-air intakes that are scoop/ramair type systems vs the ones without scoops?
The scoop puts the intake directly in the path of air flow. It also makes for more restriction if the car isn't moving.
No scoop means the intake is always susceptible to pulling air over the surface of the radiator. I also suspect that the pressure will be less than one with a scoop.
The scoop puts the intake directly in the path of air flow. It also makes for more restriction if the car isn't moving.
No scoop means the intake is always susceptible to pulling air over the surface of the radiator. I also suspect that the pressure will be less than one with a scoop.
Time for a scoop or a set of vents?
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 6
From: Portland Oregon
Here is my post on the subject from a while back. Haven't made any more progress on it as of yet.
You guys have already seen my dyno test of the claw vs. stock and unfortunately we didn't see much in the way of a HP gain. Here is phase two of the project: ducting cool air from under the front bumper. The SLP unit lends itself to this quite well as you can see by the photos. I built the scoop out of aluminum, not too tough just a lot of measuring and cutting. I will be adding more to it in the near future, definetly something up top to shroud the air intake area and possibly more of a direct scoop down below. I don't expect any dyno gains from this but it should help in real world driving by providing a constant stream of ambient temperature air to the filters.
You guys have already seen my dyno test of the claw vs. stock and unfortunately we didn't see much in the way of a HP gain. Here is phase two of the project: ducting cool air from under the front bumper. The SLP unit lends itself to this quite well as you can see by the photos. I built the scoop out of aluminum, not too tough just a lot of measuring and cutting. I will be adding more to it in the near future, definetly something up top to shroud the air intake area and possibly more of a direct scoop down below. I don't expect any dyno gains from this but it should help in real world driving by providing a constant stream of ambient temperature air to the filters.
Last edited by locobob; Nov 16, 2006 at 10:01 PM.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Springfield Missouri
Originally Posted by GIJoe
it sounds like you are making a homemade "bpp vortex ramair" box out of your claw... which many members have stated in the past doesn't do much for them.
cutting the shroud sounds like a cool idea to get that front air coming in, i don't know if making a box would be worth your time though.
Also keep in mind whatever you make may block air that is needed for the radiator below that shroud and may effect cooling.
I am learning as time goes on and reading a lot of this stuff that every single piece of the C4's ,even though we think a lot of it is a bad design, seems to have a purpose that fits tightly into the C4 total puzzle, and anything we do to them may decrease the performance of some other piece of the puzzle.
cutting the shroud sounds like a cool idea to get that front air coming in, i don't know if making a box would be worth your time though.
Also keep in mind whatever you make may block air that is needed for the radiator below that shroud and may effect cooling.
I am learning as time goes on and reading a lot of this stuff that every single piece of the C4's ,even though we think a lot of it is a bad design, seems to have a purpose that fits tightly into the C4 total puzzle, and anything we do to them may decrease the performance of some other piece of the puzzle.